Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The last time I got a bush it was slightly too big for the crank and slightly too small for the gearbox and it ended up pushed inside the crank and its fair mangled. Gonna be fair hard to get out... I'm thinking of leaving it there and hopefully it will stop the next one from going all the way in when I put the gearbox on. Does anyone know what part number or from what car I should get the bush for so this doesn't happen next time?

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257375-which-bush-did-you-use/
Share on other sites

I thought all the nissan manual spigot bushes were the same?

IIRC, they are compression fit anyway.. I just went to Nissan and asked for a spigot bush for a skyline and used what they gave me.. maybe get someone to FAST the part and get you a number?

If I get around to re-installing FAST, I'll do it for you :thumbsup:

Should I just leave the worn one in the crank and put a new one in aswell or try to get the old one out somehow?

I'd just slide it out but the insert that its meant to sit in at the end of the crank is smaller than the hole further in the crank so its kinda stuck in there

im having big trouble with this aswelll...

gone threw 3 repco spec spigot bush's.

rb30 crank with a rb25 gearbox..

its just a no go..

once the spigot bush is in the crank it does not let the gearbox output shaft slide threw it..

annoying as f**k.

no idea what to do..

I've used a VL one from the local auto shop as well as an rb25det one from Nissan. They are all the same.

If its binding something is not right with the input shaft or you have not whacked the spigot in all the way.

To remove the old pack the hole full of grease; grab a small socket with a little extension on the end or a piece of metal rod that fits and hammer away. The grease you pack in behind the spigot will force the spigot out as you hammer.

crankbushissue.jpg

The Red is the current bush that is worn a bit and is stuck further back in the crank, it wont come out because its bigger than the insert that its meant to sit on. The Blue is where I think its meant to go but once you manage to get it into this section its been compressed so much that the input shaft wont fit into it. Is the bush meant to fit in the blue spot or the red spot?

In the red spot it is loose in the crank, in the blue spot its vft.

The only thing I can think of is to leave the old one in as its only going to spin freely on the tip of the input shaft (if the shaft even goes that far into the crank) and machine the outside of the new bush down so it will fit in the crank without compressing.

Let me know if I need to explain further or if you have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Daniel

I have a tool that has a bit that inserts into the bush and i nice shoulder to 'push' the bush with when i hit it with the hammer.

I simply put the bush onto the end of the tool and tap it until it is level with the back of the crank.. i think?

(by memory i think thats what i do.. haha, I dont even think about it when i do it.).

It shouldn't go all the way in. yes it will be tight. but if you get it cock-eyed, then you will have issues.

Also, dont just hammer the end of the bush with the hammer, it will put a nasty bur on it!

Use a socket or brass bar between the hammer and the bush.

does that help?

when getting my last 4 spigot bushs in i have used a wooden end of a broom and a hammer to very lightylly tap it in..

all of them have f**ked up some how..

they compress once in and wont accept the gearbox shaft in them...

My dilemma was similar. Apparently my RB30 originally was attached to an auto trans because it did not have a bushing. It did have a larger one fitted into the crank.

pilotbush_01.jpg

This larger piece inner diameter almost looked like the smaller bushing would press in.

pilotbush_02.jpg

The larger bushing does not fit snug around the input shaft of my RB25 transmission. My thought is to just leave it off and go with the smaller one only. On =premo='s picture, the area above the blue looks like the bush I removed.

Mine must have been an auto because the crank end looks the same as your picture. Today I fixed the problem however.

Step 1, Use small chisel to brake up the bush that was too far inside the crank then use air or finger to remove broken fragments.

Step 2, Use 80p sand paper to round one edge of the new bush to be inserted, then use 400p wet rub to smooth the rounded edge.

Step 3, Make sure the rounded edge will go into the insert opening (may require repeat of step 2, it will still work if it only barely fits).

Step 4, Place thick flat piece of soft wood (I used a cut off of pine) over the exposed end of the bush and hammer until bush is flush with the crank insert.

Step 5, Using a clutch aligning tool (loose input shaft) check to see if the input shaft end will fit inside the bush by hand only. It wont fit because the bush has been compressed into the insert.

Step 6, Using a small round metal file slowly and evenly open up the size of the bush, it is a soft bush and will be very easy to open up so be careful you don't go too far, you may need to unclog your file often with a rag. Repeat step 5 and 6 until the clutch aligning tool end fits inside the bush by hand without force and can spin easily.

Step 7, Continue with engine build.

Edited by =premo=

So I wasted a lot of time Saturday making the bush fit where it isn't meant to go. Dammit, why couldn't someone just tell me it fits back further in the crank. In fact I could have just reused the bush that was already in the crank instead of replacing it.

I always replace the spigot bush everytime the gearbox comes out.. an old one isn't going to break anything but MY GOD the squeeling is horrible when they dry out and catch on the shaft!

Maybe if you'd taken a photo, we could have told you that you had to remove the steel auto bush first ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...