Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The last time I got a bush it was slightly too big for the crank and slightly too small for the gearbox and it ended up pushed inside the crank and its fair mangled. Gonna be fair hard to get out... I'm thinking of leaving it there and hopefully it will stop the next one from going all the way in when I put the gearbox on. Does anyone know what part number or from what car I should get the bush for so this doesn't happen next time?

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257375-which-bush-did-you-use/
Share on other sites

I thought all the nissan manual spigot bushes were the same?

IIRC, they are compression fit anyway.. I just went to Nissan and asked for a spigot bush for a skyline and used what they gave me.. maybe get someone to FAST the part and get you a number?

If I get around to re-installing FAST, I'll do it for you :thumbsup:

Should I just leave the worn one in the crank and put a new one in aswell or try to get the old one out somehow?

I'd just slide it out but the insert that its meant to sit in at the end of the crank is smaller than the hole further in the crank so its kinda stuck in there

im having big trouble with this aswelll...

gone threw 3 repco spec spigot bush's.

rb30 crank with a rb25 gearbox..

its just a no go..

once the spigot bush is in the crank it does not let the gearbox output shaft slide threw it..

annoying as f**k.

no idea what to do..

I've used a VL one from the local auto shop as well as an rb25det one from Nissan. They are all the same.

If its binding something is not right with the input shaft or you have not whacked the spigot in all the way.

To remove the old pack the hole full of grease; grab a small socket with a little extension on the end or a piece of metal rod that fits and hammer away. The grease you pack in behind the spigot will force the spigot out as you hammer.

crankbushissue.jpg

The Red is the current bush that is worn a bit and is stuck further back in the crank, it wont come out because its bigger than the insert that its meant to sit on. The Blue is where I think its meant to go but once you manage to get it into this section its been compressed so much that the input shaft wont fit into it. Is the bush meant to fit in the blue spot or the red spot?

In the red spot it is loose in the crank, in the blue spot its vft.

The only thing I can think of is to leave the old one in as its only going to spin freely on the tip of the input shaft (if the shaft even goes that far into the crank) and machine the outside of the new bush down so it will fit in the crank without compressing.

Let me know if I need to explain further or if you have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Daniel

I have a tool that has a bit that inserts into the bush and i nice shoulder to 'push' the bush with when i hit it with the hammer.

I simply put the bush onto the end of the tool and tap it until it is level with the back of the crank.. i think?

(by memory i think thats what i do.. haha, I dont even think about it when i do it.).

It shouldn't go all the way in. yes it will be tight. but if you get it cock-eyed, then you will have issues.

Also, dont just hammer the end of the bush with the hammer, it will put a nasty bur on it!

Use a socket or brass bar between the hammer and the bush.

does that help?

when getting my last 4 spigot bushs in i have used a wooden end of a broom and a hammer to very lightylly tap it in..

all of them have f**ked up some how..

they compress once in and wont accept the gearbox shaft in them...

My dilemma was similar. Apparently my RB30 originally was attached to an auto trans because it did not have a bushing. It did have a larger one fitted into the crank.

pilotbush_01.jpg

This larger piece inner diameter almost looked like the smaller bushing would press in.

pilotbush_02.jpg

The larger bushing does not fit snug around the input shaft of my RB25 transmission. My thought is to just leave it off and go with the smaller one only. On =premo='s picture, the area above the blue looks like the bush I removed.

Mine must have been an auto because the crank end looks the same as your picture. Today I fixed the problem however.

Step 1, Use small chisel to brake up the bush that was too far inside the crank then use air or finger to remove broken fragments.

Step 2, Use 80p sand paper to round one edge of the new bush to be inserted, then use 400p wet rub to smooth the rounded edge.

Step 3, Make sure the rounded edge will go into the insert opening (may require repeat of step 2, it will still work if it only barely fits).

Step 4, Place thick flat piece of soft wood (I used a cut off of pine) over the exposed end of the bush and hammer until bush is flush with the crank insert.

Step 5, Using a clutch aligning tool (loose input shaft) check to see if the input shaft end will fit inside the bush by hand only. It wont fit because the bush has been compressed into the insert.

Step 6, Using a small round metal file slowly and evenly open up the size of the bush, it is a soft bush and will be very easy to open up so be careful you don't go too far, you may need to unclog your file often with a rag. Repeat step 5 and 6 until the clutch aligning tool end fits inside the bush by hand without force and can spin easily.

Step 7, Continue with engine build.

Edited by =premo=

So I wasted a lot of time Saturday making the bush fit where it isn't meant to go. Dammit, why couldn't someone just tell me it fits back further in the crank. In fact I could have just reused the bush that was already in the crank instead of replacing it.

I always replace the spigot bush everytime the gearbox comes out.. an old one isn't going to break anything but MY GOD the squeeling is horrible when they dry out and catch on the shaft!

Maybe if you'd taken a photo, we could have told you that you had to remove the steel auto bush first ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...