Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahhh no no.. lol

i was having alot of trouble just gettin my spigot bush in. i had no auto spigot in their.

was just to tight in the crank and kept crushing the bushes.

i slightly grinded mine to a tiny bit smallr diameter..

still had to use wood to tap it in. just not as tight a fit.

its all good now

Next time I'll take a pic.

I think it may have been easier in the end to do what I did and make the bush fit into the auto insert instead of trying to pull out the auto insert.

Would the auto spigot bush foul with the manual input shaft? I think it quite possible could..

That's a good point... The gearbox is bolted up alright so I guess it mustn't be fouling. I'll find out when I put it in gear with the clutch depressed and if it starts to drive off I'll sit a grenade under it and get some enjoyment out of watching it explode. I really CBF pulling the gearbox out without a hoist, even with a hoist this project has fkd up so many times I don't think I'd bother with it.

It might not be hard to remove, I just never knew that it was removable. I didn't take the gearbox off the RB20det before I sold it so I didn't see the end of the manual crank. Thought the RB30 I got was from a manual R31 and the insert looked like it was part of the crank because it had rusted evenly with the crank. Really wish I had of realized it could be taken out before I went to the trouble of making the bush fit inside it. Crap happens

ah lads,

yeh you have to remove the bush that comes in the back of the auto rb30 crank. Either get a small die grinder in there or a hacksaw blade, take a bit of material from the bush on opposing faces, then snap it with a cold chisel and remove. Spigot bearing will go all the way in then. Remember it's porous, so soak it in oil for a few hrs till oil comes out of it once you pressurize it between your fingers. Shouldn't have any dramas then with wear / noise etc. But yeh.... take the auto bush out, the rb25 input shaft will most probably run on it. 10 min job.

end result >

post-29915-1236337733_thumb.jpg

g.

Edited by G-R31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...