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By Prof_Finesser · Posted
Hello again so I blew my motor long story short one of the cams journals wasn’t getting oil and the cam stopped rotating and jumped timing on exhaust side. It’s a built r32 rb25de+t non vct so my questions are. 1. Can a r33 rb25det s1 head work on my r32 rb25de non vct block I still want to use it because forged internals. My r32 rb25 head is toast and I can’t find anyone with one. 2. Will my non vct parts work on the vct head which are cam gears, gear back plate, front gear cover, cas, cas bracket, and cams (rb20 tomei 256 cams). I will be deleting the vct because I don’t feel like it lol also I reached my hp goal on the dyno before it blew. 3.Last question I know I’ll have to switch up my manifold and fuel rail because no vct head is very similar to rb20 and ik vct head is different but I want to make sure that tps, water sensors, and idle air control valve connectors will be the same. I’ve read tps and water sensors should be the same just don’t know about the idle air control. I don’t want to have to modify my harness. -
Also - running 5W-40, was recommended by seller. -
Sorry - RB25DE Neo, as y'all likely already know.
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Hey y'all! In the latest of my un-luck saga, I had been hearing some metal-sliding/rattling noises at lower RPM under engine load/acceleration. Originally thought it might be transmission related since that was where I'd usually shift (I live in a slow neighborhood so lots of lower-rev driving). But, upon having a mechanic hear it, it turns out that I have a detonation issue. Before I got a timing belt service, this was happening in 1500 up to 3K RPM, but post timing belt replacement it's been down to about 1700-2100. I've been doing my damnedest to keep her above 2100 for most driving - little bit more jerky but I'd rather not lose an engine over this. So far: - replaced timing belt, timing retarded slightly as per mechanic who did the work... problem got smaller but not solved (as an aside, getting lots of belt whine and even squeal when I start her up in the mornings) - Been only using top-tier fuel available locally (91 is premium for my state in USA, since it's high altitude we get f*ed on gas quality. Been using Shell... but does have the "contains up to 10% ethanol" sticker, unsure if that's gonna be an issue and if I should seek out no-ethanol gas) - Plugs are BRAND NEW via the seller... maybe they did a bad install? RB25DE, 5MT. Glad to be able to actively control engine speed for an issue like this. Other than a bad MAF, what else could it be? Could the spark job have been a bust? Compression test came back 180 on all cylinders except one at 160... something questionable there?
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