Whats The Difference Between The Best Oils

[=premo=]

Apart from price can anyone tell me what the main difference is between these oil's?

I've always believed that running Redline oil is the best option but when you price 3.9L at $120 = $30.80/L

So I thought today I might give Motul 300v a try as its the next best thing but again its 4L at $100 = $25/L

Then the counter sales guy came up to me and said why don't you use the best Elf has, 5L at $58 = $11.60/L

I cant remember the name of the Elf oil he showed me but he believes its the same as 300v only it comes in 10-50 instead of 15-50...

So why should I get Redline at three times the price of Elf?

Also whats the difference between 15-50 and 10-50, is it heavier or thicker?

Thanks people

[T04GTR]

just the price....

as long as it has oil pressure it will be healthy, if it surges it will do dammage regardless of the oil used. i have seen engines that use all those oils and still spin bearings.

and with any oil once it gets over 120~ degrees it breakes down and wont lubricate as well. a 15w50 is a good wieght for a stressed motor. thicker than a 10w50.

[STATUS]

Apart from price can anyone tell me what the main difference is between these oil's?

I've always believed that running Redline oil is the best option but when you price 3.9L at $120 = $30.80/L

So I thought today I might give Motul 300v a try as its the next best thing but again its 4L at $100 = $25/L

Then the counter sales guy came up to me and said why don't you use the best Elf has, 5L at $58 = $11.60/L

I cant remember the name of the Elf oil he showed me but he believes its the same as 300v only it comes in 10-50 instead of 15-50...

So why should I get Redline at three times the price of Elf?

Also whats the difference between 15-50 and 10-50, is it heavier or thicker?

Thanks people

its cause the shop is making double GP$$ on the ELF @ $58 than he is selling the motul at $120 jokes shop around i know plenty of places selling for way under $120 (us included)

the ELF @ $58 is nowhere near the 300V or redline quality wise the 300v and redline is high end comp oil, the ELF is still a very good synthetic oil.

Edited February 17, 2009 by URAS

[__PhaseShiftDown]

Be aware that most oil on the market advertised as "Synthetic" are not 100% synthetic. They are still hydrocracked group III base stock that are highly refined. You want group 4 POA base stock (Mobile 1) or Group 5 Ester based stock (300v) oil that are 100% synthetic. But most ppl tends to agree that if you change oil every 5000km or less, it dosn't really matter which oil you use as long as they are not mineral oil. Most Group 3 oil are pretty close to the quality of Group 4's anyway, so it really depends on your budget. I personally only use 300v.

I believe that the higher the difference in ratio between the cold/hot weight, the greater the amount of viscosity modifier in the oil and less base stock. So 10w40 has a ratio of 1 to 4, where 5w30 has a ratio of 1 to 6. 10w40 will offer better protection.

I've posted this already in the oil oil thread, but I'll post it here again.

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http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...up=Lubrication2

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...oup=OilAnalysis

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/articl...p=Which%20group?

QUOTE

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The API groups oils into five major categories, each with different properties and production methods:

Group I: Solvent frozen mineral oil. This is the least processed of all oils on the market today and is typically used in nonautomotive applications, though some of it may find its way into low-cost motor oils.

Group II: Hydro-processed and refined mineral oil. This is the most common of all petroleum oils and is the standard component of most petroleum-based automotive and motorcycle engine oils.

Group III (now called synthetic): The oils start as standard Group I oils and are processed to remove impurities, resulting in a more heat-stable compound than possible as a standard Group I or II oil. Some examples are Castrol Syntec automotive oil and Motorex Top Speed. These are the lowest cost synthetics to produce, and generally do not perform as well as Group IV or V oils.

Group IV: Polyalphaolefin, commonly called PAOs. These are the most common of the full synthetic oils, and usually offer big improvements in heat and overall stability when compared to Group III oils. They are produced in mass quantities and are reasonably inexpensive for full-synthetic oils. Since they are wax-free they offer high viscosity indexes (low temperature pour point) and often require little or no viscosity modifiers. Examples include Amsoil and Motorex Power Synt.

Group V: Esters. These oils start their life as plant or animal bases called fatty acids. They are then converted via a chemical reaction into esters or diesters which are then used as base stocks. Esters are polar, which means they act like a magnet and actually cling to metals. This supposedly offers much better protection on metal-to-metal surfaces than conventional PAOs, which do not have this polar effect. These base stock oils also act as a good solvent inside the engine, translating into cleaner operation. Esters are the most expensive to produce, and oils manufactured with them usually cost much more. Due to this higher cost, many companies only fortify their oils with esters. Some examples are Bel-Ray EXS, Torco MPZ Synthetic and Maxum 4 Extra. Motul 300V, however, uses 100 percent ester as its base oil, and is one of the more expensive oils.

The grouping of these oils is the source of much controversy. One topic that has been debated is what can be labeled a "full synthetic oil." In 1999, Mobil brought a complaint against Castrol for changing the base oil in its Syntec product. They had used a Group IV PAO, but had changed to a Group III base oil. Mobil contended that Group III oils were not really "synthetic oil" and should not be labeled as such. After many expert opinions were heard, the National Advertising Division of the Better Business Bureau sided with Castrol and said that Group III oils could be labeled synthetic. Since that time there has been a lot of growth in this product type due to its low cost and similar performance to traditional synthetics. Many traditionalists still argue that Group III oils are not true synthetic oils.

Edited February 17, 2009 by __PhaseShiftDown

[=premo=]

Thanks, I change oil every time I go to the track so I might buy the Elf this time. And for a fresh engine 10-50 would be better than the 15-50

[Phatboy]

Thanks, I change oil every time I go to the track so I might buy the Elf this time. And for a fresh engine 10-50 would be better than the 15-50

Yikes.. you used to change 5-6L Redline or 300V every time you go to the track?

You could just rebottle it and donate it to SAU. Would still be better quality than the new bottled stuff some people who-are-less-willing-to-spend on-oil have to buy to keep their cars running.

[=premo=]

Only had a stock RB20det back then so didnt use good oil. Now I've got something a little better so using the good stuff.

[daxter]

I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 on my RB25DET, currently make 220rwkw soon to be tuned for 240-50rwkw, how do you guys rate this oil?

I'd like to use an oil that will offer my engine the best protection so it will last.

[PM-R33]

Start reading boys.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ge-t177341.html

As for the magnatec with pushing 250rwkw.......*Yikes* You want the best, you buy 300V, Royal Purple or Redline stuff, simple as that.

Edited February 18, 2009 by PM-R33

[daxter]

Start reading boys.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sp...ge-t177341.html

As for the magnatec with pushing 250rwkw.......*Yikes* You want the best, you buy 300V, Royal Purple or Redline stuff, simple as that.

Hi PM-R33, when changing to one of these brands should I still look for a 10W-40 rated oil? Thanks

[leeboi33]

i thought this topic had been stickied somewhere?????? a litlle more researching perhaps?

[PM-R33]

The link i posted is the sticky.

Yeah go a 10W40, its a good all-round viscosity. Well atleast for where i am being a hot climate, i dont like going too much thinner.

[bozodos]

I use the 5w40 Motul in mine, seemed to make the turbo spool quicker than the 5w30 Castrol EDGE i was using, this was after a lengthy read of the oil thread and trying to get something at least similar in viscosity to the 7.5w30 nissan oil.

[leeboi33]

i was using motul turbolite it was 10w 30 i think but i was burning shit loads in these temps i get here ( around 30-40 degrees most days) so i changed to castrol 15 40 ( i think its the one below the big bore type oil i will check the bottle later) lol but anyway i noticed a massive improvement , altho its a little noisier at first when she gets warm it doesnt burn away so im happy

[PM-R33]

Turbolight is a 10W40 and i used to run it up here in Townsville without any dramas.

[(OO)Firty Free(OO)]

Motul 8100 xcess 5w-40 change every 3-5k. Doesnt burn a drop seems to be very good oil imo.

[some_cs_student]

I'm using German Castrol 0w30, considering going 10w40 next time and a different brand but this is fairly cheap

Car sits around 70 to 85 degrees (on a hotter day with some spirited driving) but does have a decent cooling system.

[Swiper the Fox]

was using Motul 300V...and the Le Mans stuff...not competition...was costing me $300 to change the oil every time i raced. Ive changed to a more cost effective oil as it doesnt last long enough to justify using the 'Le Mans'

Add a $600 race fuel bill for tuning and competing and entry fee and its a 4 figure sum to race for 103 seconds at a meeting (7 x 9 second passes)...I think this is confirmation that im definately a madman.

Edited February 18, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[PM-R33]

Hahahaha. F**k that!

[nisskid]

was using Motul 300V...and the Le Mans stuff...not competition...was costing me $300 to change the oil every time i raced. Ive changed to a more cost effective oil as it doesnt last long enough to justify using the 'Le Mans'

Add a $600 race fuel bill for tuning and competing and entry fee and its a 4 figure sum to race for 103 seconds at a meeting (7 x 9 second passes)...I think this is confirmation that im definately a madman.

and that drag racing is gay lol