Jump to content
SAU Community

r30 skylines


rsx84
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys, I thought I'd add to this thread...

I've personally driven benny's purple DR30 beast many times and can vouch for the performance, FJs are awesome!! On 0.9bar It pulls harder then.......

*ahem* well, lets just say it pulls bloody hard! It'll be even better once he shuts that damned diff up!! (sounds like its about to spit out the crown gear!:) )

It looks even better in the flesh too, the depth of the purple is hard to capture on camera.

Twice as fast as your old R32 benny? Perhaps...Is it twice as fast as mine though? Naaahh!! Quicker definitely, but we shall see! :(

cya!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

benny- thats sweet mate, very peeved though, looks like you've got the rims i have, well 3 and a half of anyway, thats the anoying thing they look brillant fit under the gards so well, can't find a replacement anywhere and they carnt be fixed!! looks brillant though the colour is great, makes me think of changing mine from the red and black to one colour!

does the link in post 156 work as it works for me??

two very nice examples of old school skyline style, byring a teer to my eye seeing them!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys thanks for the feedback!

Boof: not sure about the injectors, but i can't run it over about 1.0 bar boost, so the injectors are probly at their limit. Also i was told the afm on the fj's are extremely restrictive so engine management with map sensor, definately the way to go!

rsx84, are your rims SSR's? mine say ssr on the valve caps. btw the linked workd fine for me.

Any of u import 2door guys have any trouble getting ur cars to meet adr's and rwc's etc?

btw, the rear quarter windows in my car can be wound down!?.thought that was cool hehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

benny- no dude mine are Hayashi racing multi spoke, may be just a simaliar style then, you've still got four of them though!! have looked at r30 club web site at the half cages and centre floor bars, with the fifteen year rule not to many hassels, but half of us are looking at or finishing rb20 transplants.did you import it or buy it over here, looks very much like full import to me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rsx84- apart from the fmic and turbo back 3 inch exhaust, it has a Trust oil cooler, boost relief valve, hks pod filter, greddy profec ebc and the guys at the workshop think it might have a have a high flowed turbo.

Also the dash is cluttered with 5 aftermarket guages, shift light and a speed meter.

btw, u had your car dynoed?..any mods to the rb?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

benny-nice, sounds like money well spent, are there any other things out of the ordinary, you know brakes, suspention and fuel system it would be nice to know if the japanese boys know any little tricks to the r30??

DR30RS-nice run what came second? yet another person with similar rims!! oh well you lucky bastards..

i was thinking on what info we lost and through most of it was on brakes and struts so if you have any throughs or have done something alone these lines post it as it all helps someone!!

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rsx84- as far as i know, the brakes are standard...it has lowered springs all round with what looks like standard front shocks, this makes the front end mega stiff...also has cusco adjustable strut tops....the rear shocks are bilsteins, which makes the rear end a little more aussie road friendly hehe

DR30RS- nice figure!...ur fj been rebuilt?....what turbo are u using if u don't mind me asking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...