Jump to content
SAU Community

r30 skylines


rsx84
 Share

Recommended Posts

dr30man have you considered staying with the FJ motor in its turbo form.Take one out and bolt one in...simple.Same mounts,wiring,clutch g/box etc etc.

Making 400hp at the crank on an FJ is a breeze and mine makes as much torque as any RB20 here in Perth. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nice to get all this info cheers, you must have looked around alot, towords your conversion theres a hr30 4door forsale at the moment with a rb30/25 for around $20,000, are you building the engine yourself or getting one from NZ?  

try www.hlj.com for r30 models as i got the jenesis model and 2 other r30 2doors, thier very happy to take your money and depending on stock, took a week to get to me from the order date. just a question on the dash swap, with the 260km jenesis version do they use the same vertical rolling system (boost,pet,bat)or change them as well? one last thing did you have any problems with getting the badges sent over as i'm looking for the boot badges.

RSX84,

If you have the vertical barrel type gauges, you have an 82 dash, Instrument cluster. 83/4/5 clusters used a quadrant type gauge and that is the type I have. My Paul Newman is an 84 and has the quadrant gauges.

As I said earlier, Jenesis WILL NOT TRADE with us again, as he considers the Japanese domestic market is more than he can handle.

Which boot badges are you looking for, I might have what you want second hand, as I had a DR30 sedan I wrecked.

SSS Automotive has the DR front brake/strut assemblies for about $500.00 pair.

I have a set of JIC Coilovers for my HR, I bought them through Japanese Motorsport in Adelaide for $1300.00 all four, off an DR30, complete with brakes etc.

The Dr30 calipers are also bigger, still single piston, but use a bigger pad than standard, DB1184 I think, will confirm later if needed.

I have a front air dam you might like to see, email me and I will send you a pick, but it is the same as one on current Jenesis web site. I am going to make them in limited numbers later this year and should be available for about $300.00 each.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice to get all this info cheers, you must have looked around alot, towords your conversion theres a hr30 4door forsale at the moment with a rb30/25 for around $20,000, are you building the engine yourself or getting one from NZ?  

try www.hlj.com for r30 models as i got the jenesis model and 2 other r30 2doors, thier very happy to take your money and depending on stock, took a week to get to me from the order date. just a question on the dash swap, with the 260km jenesis version do they use the same vertical rolling system (boost,pet,bat)or change them as well? one last thing did you have any problems with getting the badges sent over as i'm looking for the boot badges.

RSX,

I'm building the motor myself, using RB25DET ARIAS forged pistons in an otherwise reworked standard bottom end. Have ported the head, still standard valves and GTR spec valve springs, about 270 degree cams, adjustable cam pulleys and a Garrett GT35/40 turbo. Using about 18/20 psi and front mount intercooler, I expect to have about 340Kw at the wheels.

BUT for compliance of Engineers certificate and emmissions testing, it will be using std RB25DE 270 injectors, stock R32 RB20DET ECU and a VG30 Turbo, on std manifolds

The bottom end will be race ballanced, GTR front pully, the clutch, a single plate full faced kevlar, about 1000kg load pressure plate, 10.5 inch dia, using a VL Turbo steel billet flywheel. Water pump has been removed and replaced by Davies Craig electric pump, RB30 power steer pump with remote reservoir.

I have a standard RB20DET R31 gearbox, for rego purposes and after, have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox, but this has an electronic speedo drive, so have to do some homework to get my 260 speedo operational with new R33 gearbox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dr30man have you considered staying with the FJ motor in its turbo form.Take one out and bolt one in...simple.Same mounts,wiring,clutch g/box etc etc.

Making 400hp at the crank on an FJ is a breeze and mine makes as much torque as any RB20 here in Perth. :(

IT is deffinately something to think about, as im sure it would be a heck of a lot easier than the RB and cheaper as far as getting it in but how about power upgrades. You say you are getting 344rw/hp, im not looking that high but i was wondering how your making those figures as i have heard the fj can take a bit to.

Thanks :burnout:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just bought a standard 2 litre Supra intercooler for my HR30 and was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how i could hook it all up. There isn't any room to feed piping through anywhere and i was hoping someone is running one similar. I saw it done on a DR30 at the latest drift days at least i think it was a Supra intercooler.

I'm looking for a cheap but affective way of hooking it up as i don't have much money to play with.

Also, a little while ago i tried to hook up a boost controller with no success. Hooking it up isn't the problem, that all went smoothly. The problem is when it is installed, it seems to boost ok and when it comes onto full boost it dies and then boost again and is all over the place sometimes it wouldn't even boost at all when coming into higher revs where it should be. The boost gage seems to bounce around all over the place with no throttle adjustment. I was really confused, worried and removed it. The strange thing is it works fine with the standard hose that is attached and i wasn't running above standard boost with the controller, i had it turned right down. I'm really confused about it and i want to have it all in order so when i get the intercooler in i can run more boost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, i have an MR30 sedan, currently installing an RB20DET, looks like a nighmare to wire up, apparently the g/box mounts should bolt up... Its bolted in, but still not wired up.

I ve painted the car in 2pak, gold and put R33 disks and 4 piston calipers on front, std rear disks, adj. coilovers, fibreglass front bar, strut brace, nolathane bushes, series 1 dr30 tail lights, 16x8 watanabe's (no rubbing problems running 245/45/16), bolton 20mm spacers and a few other things. Im sure i'll run into some problems while hooking up the RB20 tho

pictures - http://www.pbase.com/crimmo

dr30turbo - if you get 2 front struts with your HR30 from paul, they will bolt in no worries, i bought the koni shocks brand new and the springs are heavy duty pedders, all came out of my car when i converted to big brakes and coilovers, they handle very well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cool 2 see all yo r30 dudes still goin strong havent been on for ages..

id almost bought a neat red 16v Calibra bout a month ago..then thought hey ive already got a fast, comfortable sporty and hell reliable car-why buy a small unreliable german rider-im stayin with the japs.

keeping the oldskool in-great to see fellas

by the way rsx84 check your email dude.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IT is deffinately something to think about, as im sure it would be a heck of a lot easier than the RB and cheaper as far as getting it in but how about power upgrades.  You say you are getting 344rw/hp, im not looking that high but i was wondering how your making those figures as i have heard the fj can take a bit to.

Thanks  :burnout:

I bought a GT30 turbo,turbosmart wastegate,s/hand mazda injectors,hybrid intercooler and Wolf ecu.Thats it.

Standard manifolds,head,cams,throttle body...all stock.It runs 18psi boost and BP98 fuel and is a rocket!

I cant wait to fit my Tomei 272 cams and put 25psi into it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Ghost Rider, about your RB25 conversion. which mounts did you use and on which side and did you have any problems getting your sump to fit.

Ypu need the 6 cyl crossmember.

And the only RB25 bits are head +. The block is RB30, but standard R31 Skyline mounts have been used so far, but am not sure that I am happy the way the engine sits. I will look into it further as I get closer to completion

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry to cut in here with another topic, but...

does any one know the legal limit to lower to front of a r30? is a specific height from the wheel arch to the centre of the wheel or is it that 100mm rule? i need accuarte info as im looking to take it through Regency and apparaently they're pretty picky

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a GT30 turbo,turbosmart wastegate,s/hand mazda injectors,hybrid intercooler and Wolf ecu.Thats it.

Standard manifolds,head,cams,throttle body...all stock.It runs 18psi boost and BP98 fuel and is a rocket!

I cant wait to fit my Tomei 272 cams and put 25psi into it!

Neither can we :D

BTW how is my cut looking :) I mean your cut hehehe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, i have an MR30 sedan, currently installing an RB20DET, looks like a nighmare to wire up, apparently the g/box mounts should bolt up... Its bolted in, but still not wired up.

I ve painted the car in 2pak, gold and put R33 disks and 4 piston calipers on front, std rear disks, adj. coilovers, fibreglass front bar, strut brace, nolathane bushes, series 1 dr30 tail lights, 16x8 watanabe's (no rubbing problems running 245/45/16), bolton 20mm spacers and a few other things. Im sure i'll run into some problems while hooking up the RB20 tho

pictures - http://www.pbase.com/crimmo

dr30turbo - if you get 2 front struts with your HR30 from paul, they will bolt in no worries, i bought the koni shocks brand new and the springs are heavy duty pedders, all came out of my car when i converted to big brakes and coilovers, they handle very well.

Some nice pics mate - id like to find out more about your front bar - its pretty cool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry to cut in here with another topic, but...

does any one know the legal limit to lower to front of a r30? is a specific height from the wheel arch to the centre of the wheel or is it that 100mm rule? i need accuarte info as im looking to take it through Regency and apparaently they're pretty picky

Mike Cash,

The 100 mm rule IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL, so be careful.

In NSW there is a MINIMUM distance between the centre of your headlights 9no matter on or off) CENTRE OF HEADLIGHTS to the ground. Check with your local authorities, like an inspection station that you know, and get the guts from them.

If the headlight to ground minimum is complied with, it also has to have a minimum ground clearance of 100 mm, but the headlight distance is THE MOST CRITICAL.

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch lowered 50 mm at the front and no problems.

BUT do it right, get new springs, don't cut the originals.

Dennis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forget that DR30 HKS Intercooler at Option 1 Garages guys, I just bought it for my HR30 Paul Newman.

RSX84,

Matt, tried to send you pics of my 260 Speedo & front bar, but your hotmail address is either full or has fatal errors, as I could not send it to you, it was returned.

Something that is a surprise to me! we all have an ISP otherwise we can't be online, but so many people persist in using Hotmail email addresses. WHY?????????

Dennis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike Cash,

The 100 mm rule IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL, so be careful.

In NSW there is a MINIMUM distance between the centre of your headlights 9no matter on or off) CENTRE OF HEADLIGHTS to the ground. Check with your local authorities, like an inspection station that you know, and get the guts from them.

If the headlight to ground minimum is complied with, it also has to have a minimum ground clearance of 100 mm, but the headlight distance is THE MOST CRITICAL.

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch lowered 50 mm at the front and no problems.

BUT do it right, get new springs, don't cut the originals.

Dennis

Mate you should try getting a straight answer from our wankers at regency, depending on what time and who u speak to you will get a different answer both times...They have NO idea!!! :bs!:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...