r30 skylines

[floody]

Just in case anyone's interested,

if you jump over to http://www.hlj.com and whip out your credit card, there is a Jenesis Auto DR30 RS-X 1/24 scale model kit now in stock, I think its about 1800yen plus shipping (about 1000yen)... Try and find one in the shops here Its by Aoshima, and appears to have a Jenesis front spoiler and big RS-watanabe rims.

I've got one on order, I reckon its the only DR30 I'll be able to get for a while (probably ever)...

Can't wait till it arrives! Its going to go nicely with my 2 R31 GTS-R kits and my Datsun 510 model...

[nicko]

whats gone wrong with your r30s, there 19 and older so what problems have occured?

just askin cos my car is immaculate and has had nothing go wrong,,,,

apart from this week when coolant started to leak from the foot wells and airvents....stunk the car out and HELLO.. my heater core has died/eroded. turns out its gonna be a bugger of about 600 dollar labour costs to get the mechanic inside my/our awkward japanese dash to replace it..

oh well i dont think ill bother fixing it just yet my try to get a 15yold import to replace the skyline that has served its time well.

[rsx84]

Just in case anyone's interested,

if you jump over to http://www.hlj.com and whip out your credit card, there is a  Jenesis Auto DR30 RS-X 1/24 scale model kit now in stock, I think its about 1800yen plus shipping (about 1000yen)... Try and find one in the shops here Its by Aoshima, and appears to have a Jenesis front spoiler and big RS-watanabe rims.

I've got one on order, I reckon its the only DR30 I'll be able to get for a while (probably ever)...

Can't wait till it arrives! Its going to go nicely with my 2 R31 GTS-R kits and my Datsun 510 model...

got one about 8 months ago along with a wide body version dr coupe, cost me back then about $130 for 4 kits and shipping, great web site that one!!

[tomj]

Measure the rail spacing. I measured a set up for my R31 (which may or may not be closer in design) and the S13 rails were about 45mm too far apart - the R31 centre to centre of the rails was 415mm where the S13 was about 460mm.

R30 and R31 floorpans are completely different

I might need custom rails or mounting points on the rails.

[floody]

R30 and R31 floorpans are completely different

I might need custom rails or mounting points on the rails.

I was more thinking along the lines that the seats may be more similar from the R31 to the DR30 than DR30 to S13.

In any case, the rail centre--->centre measurement should be some help , how far apart are the DR ones?

[PHaT MR30]

Umm i think R33 seat would be a good one to try, i know that R33 seats fit in a 910 Bluebird, they may have the width you need

[tomj]

Cheers

ill give 33 seat rails a shot

i was thinking more along the lines of getting aus spec 30 rails and making the s13 seats fit.

hmmm

[Ghostrider]

I looked at R33 seats for mine, but thought the mountings, not being same both sides would be a bugger to modify, so opted for SAAS Enforcers @ $350.00 each uncovered, with air lumbar support in drivers side.

[Ghostrider]

WHOA! where'd you get that weight from for the aussie R31!?!?! I weighed mine with 40l of fuel, spare, tools, jack, assorted crap and full trim and it was 1280kg on an extremely accurate weighbridge. Mine is a "stripper" model GX though, with no luxo bar power steer and aircon, with basic trim, and its manual.

All reports I've heard peg the HR31 at closer to 1400kg, on the + side....Especially for the sloppy fat bitch Passage's...

Factory R31 DRY weight specs are : GX > 1320, GXE > 1350 & Ti > 1420, but in reality, my mate has a series 3 R31 Ti sedan and with a full tank and otherwise factory accessories and a/mkt stereo weighs just under @ 1595kg

I am listing max weight per model, as the factory max for an R30, is 1250kg and that is a Ti Hatch with that incredibly huge rear glass tail gate.

Compared to an R31, it is still a light weight thoroughbred.

[floody]

Factory R31 DRY weight specs are : GX > 1320, GXE > 1350 & Ti > 1420, but in reality, my mate has a series 3 R31 Ti sedan and with a full tank and otherwise factory accessories and a/mkt stereo weighs just under @ 1595kg

I am listing max weight per model, as the factory max for an R30, is 1250kg and that is a Ti Hatch with that incredibly huge rear glass tail gate.

Compared to an R31, it is still a light weight thoroughbred.

Interesting... But like I say, I still weighed my base model Series 3 GX with all trim, fuel, oil, water, spare, jack, tools, assorted crap, in at 1280kg, suggesting a dry weight of about 1235kg. I forgot to mention it has 15" alloys, but I doubt they are the deciding factor. There is absolutely nothing special about my car.

I find it hard to believe there is about 300kg of extra stuff in a Ti , they aren't *that* luxurious. Your mate must have a hell of a stereo!

*edit* ahh but I'm forgetting the wagon factor in the factory max weights... But still, its a big difference..

[floody]

Out of interest, I've always wanted a DR30 RS-X (Iron Mask model though). I don't have the money now, but I'm planning on hopping out of my R31 towards the end of the year/start of next one (though keeping it as a second car would probably be the smart idea). So I've got a few questions for the DR Dr's ....

-What sort of money would I be looking at to get into a reasonable one (ie not perfect, but tidy enough for daily use)?

-Better to import or to get one thats already here?

-Rough idea on a cost to rebuild the FJ with forged lower comp pistons, bigger cams (how big is too big? 304's ? ), and maybe upgraded management?

-Is it easy enough to get stuff like coilovers, LSD upgrade parts, exhaust systems, that kinda stuff from the importers?

-Servicing parts easy enough to get? like hoses, belts, filters, pumps, gaskets to name a few?

-How are the headlights? any good upgrades (like say Philips blue globes improved my R31 lights immensely)

-Common problems? can they be fixed?

And, how much of the hype is true? are they the laggy, light switch powerband, wheelspinning, tail out, tyre smoking '80s beast people make out they are (I hope so )?

[Boof]

Laggy yes, wheel spinning no, tail out snap over steer yes, narrow power pand yes...Bit of fun to drive i tell's ya!! I paid 10,500 for mine due to fact it was in resonable condition, but now that i've learned more about it i rekon i paid to miuch for it...

Coil overs are easy, R33 front ones fit in the back, and with bit of modifying the s13 strut will fit in front and then go the nissan 4 spot conversion, or get one with coil overs fitted already!! Diff's are a hassle, easiest way is to get the original shimmed up or if your really lucky u can find a long nose R200 that will fit in the DR's centre...You could probably get a shortner nose one to fit but requires alot of modifing...Not worth it IMHO. Exhuast are as easy as going down reputable exhuast shop and getting one done nothing to hard...

Motor's are different thing..I've been quoted around $3k to rebuild my FJ to standard condition, i *think* if u check FJ20.com someone has bought this subject up before and there are some good prices on rebuilds and the cam specs..I've just been quoted round the 3k mark as well to supply and fit an 8860 EMS, 550cc injectors and my bosch 044 fuel pump. Coolers are pretty easy, fair whack of space in front, just check some pics of some jap versions and u'll get a good idea on that!!

Little things are supported still by aftermarket, but gettting harder to find them, best place now is Nissan direct but that = dollars and alot of it from my eperiences that is!!

About the only things that have gone wrong with mine was its appitette for alternators and i cracked the heater core as well, but i only had the thing on the road for a little over 3 months before i crashed it/lost my licence so yeah..

They are alot of fun though and i highly reccomend getting one and throwing that laggy piece of turbo in the bin to make the driving experience so much better!!

[rsx84]

most things are easy to fit unless you blow something up, you've got to remember they are all 20 or over in years now so there are the common things to look out for like rust underneath parts wear and so forth! if you've read all the posts then you can see there is alot of info that can be helpful and the prospect of engine swap??

with the lights, i used my r31 to test the headlights for the r30 so the bulbs seem to be interchangable

[tomj]

Coil overs are easy, R33 front ones fit in the back, and with bit of modifying the s13 strut will fit in front and then go the nissan 4 spot conversion, or get one with coil overs fitted already!!  

How do they fit mate? cos i can get front s13 suspension for 100 buck right now including brakes.

p.s

How are ya champ havnt seen ya online in ages! :wavey:

[Boof]

As for getting them to fit mate, speak with Crimmo he's done it on his car and will be something that i will be looking at doing on mine very soon!! As for the R33 front's fitting in the rears, they just bolt up!!

Yeah im good mate, got a twin plate for the DR now, just waiting for that to arrive..Getting bonnet in week or two so gonna go look for some decent panels/bumper and away we go..Luckily i took the skirts off the front guards before the car went to the crash shop, so all i'll be missing is the front skirt..Easy as!! Cars slowly coming together hehe!!

Hows your bus coming along??

[floody]

I just recently heard they have problems with shagged steering boxes that are hard to rectify - ie parts can't be had?

Thanks for the info so far guys, thats exactly the sort of stuff I was after. Hopefully when I do pick one up the plan is a rebuilt and beefed up (rods, pistons, head gasket, cams, valve springs) engine straight off the bat, and with any luck a decent front mount/injectors/computer, with a big turbo coming later. So they run the old longnose R200? arse. I hoped they'd be the shortnose one.

How are the gearboxes for durability? I'd go for a twin plate clutch straight up, but the box itself worries me a little.

cheers guys,

floody

[rsx84]

i think what you'll find is that all the sterring components are interchangeable, i know hr and mr, with the dr the only thing i think would be different is the location of the power sterring resivour

[Crimmo]

How do they fit mate?  cos i can get front s13 suspension for 100 buck right now including brakes.

p.s

How are ya champ havnt seen ya online in ages!    :wavey:

ok guys, as far as the R33 fronts go, i dont recomend doing it unless your running an ATMO setup, because under power the car will squat something chronic, i can lower it untill the subframe touches the ground, and when you push 170+kws into them it almost touches the ground. When cornering they do not move at all tho. To fit them, just swap the strut tops to the R30 rears.

S13 standard sus wont fit as the coils are too wide to fit in the towers, you need to use coilovers, bit of machining here and there also

[DR30RS]

I put S13 rear Tein coilovers(s/hand) in the back....easy.

Tein are very stiff which is just the ticket for the DR squat.

floddy the FJ gearbox is a tiny unit but ive been putting 380hp through mine.It is hard too shift at full power but it hasnt broke.

Whats the go for twin plates for FJ? New ones availible?

[Crimmo]

I put S13 rear Tein coilovers(s/hand) in the back....easy.

Tein are very stiff which is just the ticket for the DR squat.

floddy the FJ gearbox is a tiny unit but ive been putting 380hp through mine.It is hard too shift at full power but it hasnt broke.

Whats the go for twin plates for FJ? New ones availible?

I used a set of JIC rear S13 coilovers and they worked a treat, i was only borrowing them tho