Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it Endless that do the Greenstuff? I had greenstuff in the front of my supra, and they were EBC. or have things changed. Why black stuff in the rear? Aren't they the higher end ones, ie need a lot more heat to work?

I've read most of the posts, but after 20 something pages it got a bit hard to focus and I think I skipped bits..my bad...

I'm going to end up pulling the brakes out and tracing them...I can see it coming.

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is it Endless that do the Greenstuff? I had greenstuff in the front of my supra, and they were EBC. or have things changed. Why black stuff in the rear? Aren't they the higher end ones, ie need a lot more heat to work?

I've read most of the posts, but after 20 something pages it got a bit hard to focus and I think I skipped bits..my bad...

I'm going to end up pulling the brakes out and tracing them...I can see it coming.

i knew there was an E in there somewhere.. go to autobarn and ask for bendix as they will have the guide, i've looked in it and they have outlines of the pads, they have a listing for the fj powered cars! i'm running bendix comp-X pads...

i knew there was an E in there somewhere.. go to autobarn and ask for bendix as they will have the guide, i've looked in it and they have outlines of the pads, they have a listing for the fj powered cars! i'm running bendix comp-X pads...

they have a listing for fj's?! w00t! I coudn't get decent bendix's for the supra. Stupid bendix. I put in standard bendix pads..and took them back out that same afternoon and turfed them.

That still doesn't tell me why to run blacks in the rear! haha

The number I gave is for fronts, they seem ok, not chewing out the rotors as fast as the metallic pads that were in there before

alright thanks, I've got the spare parts guy looking into it, hopefully he can come up with something! and hopefully he can find a listing for the back cause they are really stuffed!

While on the topic of brakes again just wondering if anyone has looked into a brake upgrade for the rear, I have the fronts sorted but to do the rear as well would be nice but not necesarry, either that or I need to buy new rotors which arent cheap at all, so I would like to spend the money going bigger as bigger is better in my books.

Anyone?????

Im only guessing but what about bolting the standard fronts to the rear? (disc and caliper) if they ARE the same that would be stage one as you now have vented rears. stage two would then be honda accord calipers and hilux calipers

I have heard this is a straight bolt on for the front and are 4 mm larger in diam as well as 4pot calipers.

you would also probably need a brake bias valve for stage two because your front rear bias would be all fuct up. But like i said, im only guessing. hope this is of some help....

Project Skylux Update....engine and box is sitting in place. firewall chopped back 150mm. And ive made the sump and center oil pickup...its getting there ! (slowly)

Im only guessing but what about bolting the standard fronts to the rear? (disc and caliper)  if they ARE the same that would be stage one as you now have vented rears.  stage two would then be honda accord calipers and hilux calipers

 

I have heard this is a straight bolt on for the front and are 4 mm larger in diam as well as 4pot calipers.    

 

you would also probably need a brake bias valve for stage two because your front rear bias would be all fuct up.  But like i said, im only guessing. hope this is of some help....

I havn't checked but I'd be a little surprised if they were the same diameter, feel free to prove me wrong though. I can't see hilux discs going on with being redrilled and whatnot as they're a 6 stud (on the 4wd's). Why the honda accord calipers? The backs are going to be a bitch because of the handbrake on the caliper IMHO.

What about r32/33 skyline or sylvia discs? they're 4 stud, I have no idea how close to fitting they'd go though. or get a set of good discs/pads/fluid for the current set up. Cause I find the standard ones, even in the absolutely stuffed condition mine are, aren't too bad. Put on a good set of braided hoses and I reckon they should crank. Or stop you from cranking even.

BRAKES!!!!

They would depend a lot on the use of the vehicle.

My HR30 PNV has over 250rwkw (about 340rwhp) more than most of us on this thread will ever have.

I have BNR32 GTR fronts (296 x 32 ventilated rotors) with Nissan 4 spot alloy callipers, the rears are standard DR30 2000RS (290 x 10 solid rotors) with standard single spot calliper.

Bearing in mind that a large proportion of the braking is done by the fronts, using slotted rotors and EBC, Endless or similar pad upgrade, you should find the braking more than adequate for all but the most extreme race conditions. S/S braided lines will also help, as they eliminate the expansion the rubber lines get under application pressures. Makes the pedal feel harder.

Z32 300ZX (280 x 30 ventilated rotors) are also an option, but in both cases, the offset of the front wheels has to change to alloy clearance on the 4 spot calliper.

My car is going to engineering with stock DR30 all round and after fronts will be modified to suit BNR32 GTR, because wheel spacers OF ANY KIND are illegal and very necessary to cater for the 4 spot calliper.

I am planning to use my car for Super Sprints & Hillclimbs and they will be the best I can get, for value.

Someone please tell me why I need bigger, but first go to the Jenesis site www.r30.co.jp and tell me where they say anything bigger than DR30 rears are required, and they have been racing these cars since long before we all got interested in them.

I can't see hilux discs going on with being redrilled and whatnot as they're a 6 stud (on the 4wd's).

My bad...typo...i meant hilux calipers. what ive heard is they are a bolt on for the front.

Why the honda accord calipers?
I meant Accord discs.......maybe it was prelude tho......i dont remember..

but like I said...im guessing , because i dont remember for sure......maybe i jogged someone's memory who DOES know :D

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia. The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13? If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia.  The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13?  If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

You all got me f#@ked!

Why keep f#@king around with 275, when our stock fronts are 274, 4 spot callipers I can understand, but no advantage in 1mm.

As far as I know, all Nissan S13/14/15 & Skyline DR imports have 100mm mount centres.

Bet the JMS conversion was Z32 (280 x 30) set up, as it's a very common upgrade in Silvia circles, just re drill the rotor to suit 4 x 114.3, instead of 5 x 114.3.

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

I just looked at an old issue of HPI where they bolted R33 GTS25t brakes on to a CA18 Silvia.  The 4 pot callipers bolted straight on to the Silvia calliper mounts, and they just used rotors that were 275mm vented, 4*114.3 (cant remember the thickness though, but reasonably thick) that JMS sourced.

Are our calliper mounts the same as S13?  If they are then this seems to be a reasonably good way to go

No! there to close together for the later calipars you'd need to get custom calipar mounts made, thats the problem the front struts wont let you bolt on any decent calipers and the rotors incorparate the hubs so you have to fabracate something to upgrade an all...

r33 in the N/A version have the 4x114.3 stud pattern so there rotors and calipars should slip and bolt on to the silvia fronts??

You all got me f#@ked!

Why keep f#@king around with 275, when our stock fronts are 274, 4 spot callipers I can understand, but no advantage in 1mm.

As far as I know, all Nissan S13/14/15 & Skyline DR imports have 100mm mount centres.

Bet the JMS conversion was Z32 (280 x 30) set up, as it's a very common upgrade in Silvia circles, just re drill the rotor to suit 4 x 114.3, instead of 5 x 114.3.

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

with the hr31 stuff your talking changing struts too.. to make it a bolt on thing?

here pics of what we need??

The JMS upgrade for the Silvia in HPI used GTSt Type m 4 pots with new 4*114.3 rotors (not redrilled 5 studs) they might have been NA rotors, not sure.

So basically we need different struts?

You just need wheels that instead of having dish have the hub recessed in the centre with the spokes on the outside

The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.

Are'nt all HR31 hubs the same? I thouhgt the "ring gear" bit for the ABS was just added to the inside of the hub,with no offset change....

As we know the HR31 struts have 100mm mounts,so type M or Z32 4-pots would fit,but are you also saying the bigger type-M/Z32 rotors have the same bearing as the HR31's??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well.... it's not just "de-oxygenating". If you do that you just have, most likely, ethane. So you still need to do a synthesis step to combine a number of ethanes/ethanols to make circa-8-chain hydrocarbons. And of course you don't want straight chain HCs, because n-octane actually has a negative octane rating (ie, it's worse even than the n-heptane which sets the zero on the octane scale!), so you have to do some tricky catalytic chemistry to synthesise branched HCs. That's all doable - but it doesn't come for free. And.... it starts with ethanol, which is an agricultural product, and there will almost certainly never be enough of that as a base stock to replace the liquid fuels that are in use. You really wouldn't want to be planning to be using any more ethanol for fuels than is currently already used (in E10, E85s, etc). And ideally you'd be looking to reduce such usage, as it is largely wasteful, particularly in the stupid-ole'US-of-A where the corn lobby has organised it so that it's actually primary production corn that is used to make a lot of the ethanol, not by-products and waste, like it is (mostly) elsewhere. So, what I said about needing free-ish energy probably still applies. True synth fuels would be made from H2 and CO2, in a near reversal of the combustion process. In fact, given that the H2 would be split from water first, it actually is a complete reversal of the combustion process. But...energy intensive. The human race burns something like 1 cubic MILE of crude oil, after it has been made into various fuels. Every year. That's a simply stupendous amount of energy. Just assume that the density is 900 kg/m3, and that the calorific value is 45 MJ/kg, then that is 165.9 x10^12 MJ of energy. Or more than 10^19 Joules. You get a maximum of 1 kJ/s per square meter solar radiation falling on the planet's surface, and so if you halve that for daylight, and halve it again for average weather (highly optimistic) and then take ~25% for the very best efficiency of solar panels, then you need about 85.7 billion square metres of solar panels to generate enough electricity to replace that liquid fuel energy consumption. Each panel is about 1m2. That's a rather large number of panels. We also burn about a cubic mile of coal. We also use hydroelectric power. We also use nuclear. We also use a number of other sources, both "renewable" and not. You can kind of ignore the renewable ones (except for hydro, because it will all end up getting subsumed into pumped hydro for storing other renewables, and so it won't be the standalone renewable that it originally was), so we end up needing a multiple of the ground area number that I just arrived at.
    • Corvette thread then? Don't say I didn't predict the future again. "I love the little MX5, I do, but I just want something a little easier to get in/out of, a little more cushy and some power would be nice - I miss the V8 Rumble... I found this clean red C5 for sale recently and..." I'll do you a great deal on the next step, which is one of those but you can fit people in it, too.
    • What about renewable diesel and/or gasoline? I see some projects spinning up like de-oxygenating ethanol to make drop-in compatible bio-gasoline especially in CA. I still think the future is EVs and we should've all gone full throttle on nuclear power after the 1973 oil crisis like France. Despite 15 years of work in CA to reduce the CO2 intensity of generation with renewables our electric grid is still far worse than even "low carbon" nuclear power. ICE is pretty cool when you aren't depending on the stupid thing to be practical and reliable and cheap as possible to get you to work every day. It's kind of like mechanical watches or vacuum tube amps.
    • I just rolled over "my" first 10k km in the MX5 Every time I go anywhere it always ends up in a adventure to look at houses and find some random country roads I've been on leave since early November but unfortunately need to go back to work on 19 January Luckily though I still have a fair chunk of leave left to burn until.... Not that I'm counting 😁
    • These look like S13 wheels.  And Welcome! 
×
×
  • Create New...