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r30 skylines

rsx84

By rsx84,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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[ant] Collaborator

[ant]

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Boj - cheers :D looks mean, they did a good job i reckon. The cooler has 2" turbo side since that stock pipe off the turbo and up alongside the engine to that stock bracket is 2", so they went from there 2" then flares out to 3" just near headlight to go into the 3" inlet on the cooler. Then 3" all the way on intake side. haha yeah the coke bottle overflow was fitted by the previous owner wen he took it down to the Kwinana Motorplex to do the 1/4 mile, they made him put something there so he skulled his coke and chucked that in there hahah. it was registered without one altogether!

To make the cooler fit they needed to remove the air con condensor from the front coz its right in the way, if i want that back i need it rerouted elsewhere .. and they had to cut a loop about 1/2 the size of the pipe on the Inlet side in the metal under the headlight, and a small bit on the turbo side same place.

Also, and this refers to RSX84's question, with the bottom lip, to get the cooler to sit there they removed that whole metal support bracket thing that is in the bottom for the lip, which has like 10 bolts along it! coz it was right where the cooler and it's brackets needed to go (cooler has 2 brackets underneath and 2 up top). so they simply replaced the end bolts for the lip and put a bunch of zipties along underneath to hold the centre. not the neatest but does the job and is sturdy enough. all the main bumper support etc is there and uncut so thats the main thing!

however, u can probably see on the LHS pic the 3" inlet pipe is actualy squashing my radiator hose abit and sitting right up against it meaning the cooler pipe gets really hot :D so ive got to get my radiator out and get that elbow joint cut straight and flared out and a new peice of radiator hose that just goes straight across much simpler. costing me $72 for the cooler modifications, and a full clean and flush of the radiator & new fluid while its out.

but thennn itll be perfect hhaaha

cept shit it wouldnt mind them wheels in real life! looks mint! haha i might have to put my microtech install of a month or 2 and get another pair of 17s for the front ;D lol bling bling

boj01 Experienced

boj01

Posted
Posted

Question - Is this the easiest way to replace my gearbox oil???

Place car on hoist, undo drain plug and drain all old oil. Put drain plug back in. Take out side plug, as to know when gearbox is full (oil will slowly come out that side whole when the box is full). Then either use a drill pump to replace oil through side plug on gearbox or take out gear shifter and fill box through that.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

ive had little success through the shifter hole.

castrol gear oil comes in a squeeze bottle about 1 litre in size and has like a nozzle on the end, that works ok.. other than that i use a tube going into the side filler hole, hang the tube from higher height and stick a funnel in the other end of the tube and use the laws of gravity to do the work for me.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

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']Boj - cheers :P looks mean, they did a good job i reckon. The cooler has 2" turbo side since that stock pipe off the turbo and up alongside the engine to that stock bracket is 2", so they went from there 2" then flares out to 3" just near headlight to go into the 3" inlet on the cooler. Then 3" all the way on intake side. haha yeah the coke bottle overflow was fitted by the previous owner wen he took it down to the Kwinana Motorplex to do the 1/4 mile, they made him put something there so he skulled his coke and chucked that in there hahah. it was registered without one altogether!  

To make the cooler fit they needed to remove the air con condensor from the front coz its right in the way, if i want that back i need it rerouted elsewhere .. and they had to cut a loop about 1/2 the size of the pipe on the Inlet side in the metal under the headlight, and a small bit on the turbo side same place.  

Also, and this refers to RSX84's question, with the bottom lip, to get the cooler to sit there they removed that whole metal support bracket thing that is in the bottom for the lip, which has like 10 bolts along it! coz it was right where the cooler and it's brackets needed to go (cooler has 2 brackets underneath and 2 up top). so they simply replaced the end bolts for the lip and put a bunch of zipties along underneath to hold the centre. not the neatest but does the job and is sturdy enough. all the main bumper support etc is there and uncut so thats the main thing!

however, u can probably see on the LHS pic the 3" inlet pipe is actualy squashing my radiator hose abit and sitting right up against it meaning the cooler pipe gets really hot :P so ive got to get my radiator out and get that elbow joint cut straight and flared out and a new peice of radiator hose that just goes straight across much simpler. costing me $72 for the cooler modifications, and a full clean and flush of the radiator & new fluid while its out.

but thennn itll be perfect hhaaha

cept shit it wouldnt mind them wheels in real life! looks mint! haha i might have to put my microtech install of a month or 2 and get another pair of 17s for the front ;D lol bling bling

towords the radiator hose have you throught about rapping the hose in that heat wrap stuff to keep the heat in the hose?? what you'd need would cost maybe $30 from autobarn with some left over for somethine else?

i had to take about an inch off my lip and then put that surport bar across the cut to stop the edge from splitting.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
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fronts fit and rears i swapped the tops :)

i guess thier not adj camber tops with yours then?? thats what i was getting at as ghostrider was saying that to fit them to the r30 the front tops have to be revericed to fit the r30 towers which then means you get +chamber rather than - :D

0HR-30T Rising Star

0HR-30T

Posted
Posted
Question - Is this the easiest way to replace my gearbox oil???

Place car on hoist, undo drain plug and drain all old oil.  Put drain plug back in. Take out side plug, as to know when gearbox is full (oil will slowly come out that side whole when the box is full).  Then either use a drill pump to replace oil through side plug on gearbox or take out gear shifter and fill box through that.

Just to be on the safe side,crack the "filler" plug before undoing the drain plug.Just in case it's really tight,or nearly rounded off,etc.If you drain all the oil out,and for some reason can't get the filler one out,you're in trouble!! :)

I assume you'd be doing this at your work? You guys should have a hand pump thing.Looks sort of like a greese gun,but you pull handle out to suck up oil from a container,then pump it into the g/box.Kind of like a yabbie pump ;) but yeah,a drill pump would be even better if you have one!

A bit off topic,but you haven't had any more BBS center caps come in have you? I'm still after one for mine! :D

Doctor 30 Community Regular

Doctor 30

Posted
Posted

Guys, I have a dumped DR30 white with an RB20DET. It has a Link computer and WAW zenner wheels 16" with 225/50 tyres. It has a big selby sway bar on the front and the lower control arms extended by 7/8" as told to do by datsun performance centre. Handles like a champ.

I have 2 probs though and I'll ask for help in the other sections.

Great to see some others that share the ecstacy of the DR30.

0HR-30T Rising Star

0HR-30T

Posted
Posted
Guys, I have a dumped DR30 white with an RB20DET.  It has a Link computer and WAW zenner wheels 16" with 225/50 tyres.  It has a big selby sway bar on the front and the lower control arms extended by 7/8" as told to do by datsun performance centre.  Handles like a champ.

I have 2 probs though and I'll ask for help in the other sections.

Great to see some others that share the ecstacy of the DR30.

Sounds nice.Throw some pics up if you have any! :D

But I have to say,what's with all these RB's in DR30s????? :confused:

Doctor 30 Community Regular

Doctor 30

Posted
Posted

DR30RS The reason of putting an RB into the car is very very obvious! It was already in the car!!!! I wouldn't have cared if it had the L20T in it. Other than the dud directional stability they are just awesome. I would probably rather the FJ20 because it has the simple computer that I know how to work it.

But I do enjoy the estimated ~250 horses from the RB and the 8L/100km that it does on the freeway.

I'll put some pics up soon

Boof Mentor

Boof

Posted
Posted
DR30RS The reason of putting an RB into the car is very very obvious! It was already in the car!!!!  I wouldn't have cared if it had the L20T in it.   Other than the dud directional stability they are just awesome.  I would probably rather the FJ20 because it has the simple computer that I know how to work it.  

But I do enjoy the estimated ~250 horses from the RB and the 8L/100km that it does on the freeway.

I'll put some pics up soon

250?? Is that all????? :jk:

And yes i have to ask the question what is with RB20's in all these dr's??? Not good!!

DR30RS : whats the boost response like on your turbo?? Your running GT30 arnt you?????

[ant] Collaborator

[ant]

Posted
Posted

the FJ computer is crap tho ! i want rid of it ASAP and so does everyone else! haha

im glad im stil FJ powered gota keep the originals going!

my car got ~220 rwhp getin it dynoed thurs, but yeh its reasonabley powerful, and as far as fuel economy goes its pretty bloody good despite running very rich. im not too sure of the exact economy i dont ever work it out, but i once did about 250km in a day when wearing in my clutch (thus not revving it much either so say 3.5-4k rpm max) and i used about 1/3.5 of a tank. 1 tank is 50l or so, so 1/3.5 is ~17l say, and 250/17 = 14.7, so if i take it easy thats some sweet economy.

but then if i plant it, and rev to ~6300rpm 2nd 3rd and rev 4th to say 4.5k (run outa road n shit around then :cheers:) i can almost watch my fuel gauge needle go down 1mm! i think the Malpassi regulator does that shoving fuel in =) all good, Jap-rich style billowing black smoke top end haha rather that than lean :)

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