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r30 skylines


rsx84
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Yeah it will bolt up to an HR30, cause the chassis and all are the same just really motor's and interior stuff is different...Mine is similar to that, but the outlet pipe which im assuming is the one on the right, goes back over the top of the cooler...

heres a pic of a HKS dr30 cooler for sale for $450 it should bolt stright up to the hr30

http://www.option1garage.com.au/Engine%20Acc%20010.jpg

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this is to those of you who have the rb20det conversion, just trying to get info on what to do to get the speedo to work? as it stands its connected but has a mind of its own, reads whatever speed it wants, any help ideas would be great as i'm that close to the end!!

Cheers Matt.

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hey guys, im currently doing up my hr30 coupe. just got a loan and worknig hard. now ive talked to justec and they said the l20et xmember. can be used on the rb20det. which im going to put it. and yeah ia have a l20et in their currently running 10psi with 2.5" exhaust and a pod filter. goes pretty well on a cold night, hot day its a pinnging all over the place.

but can you guys confurm that the l20et xmember works?. cheers

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i'll have a go at some info for ya, you've got a mr30 5door skyline, came with 2 forms of l24 engine, the crappie non fuel injected version and the fuel injected, i think the l24e puts out around 90 odd kws at the fly maybe a little less, you should have 4 wheel disks and IRS, the engines are N/A so theres alot of things to do to unlock power and $$ things.

did you use a pod or panel filter as a replacement?

if your looking to do the exhaust heres a great start pm me if you want more info on them?

other than the extractors some other cheap upgrades are things like plugs, leads replace the coil, rig up some flexi piping to get more air to the intake, maybe a better fuel pump and injectors?? after all that your looking to start spending big money on the engine its self. Hope this helps?

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stagefumer11- when i did the conversion to rb20 i think the place used the original l24e xmember which i'd assume is the same as the l20et.

for the intercooler discussion:i also got my intercooler custom made by Bremon Welding for like $750. it s pretty big, 700 x 35 x 7 (approx) and works well.

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stagefumer11- when i did the conversion to rb20 i think the place used the original l24e xmember which i'd assume is the same as the l20et.

for the intercooler discussion:i also got my intercooler custom made by Bremon Welding for like $750. it s pretty big, 700 x 35 x 7 (approx) and works well.

hey thanks , thats what i needed to know :(

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have all of you who have done the rb conversion done most of the work yourself? as i am looking in that direction soon but i am mechanically illiterate, (i know how to give tlc and external mods but as far as internally all i know is how to change the oil etc.) What im really trying to say is how much does it cost?? i know a lot of custom mods need doing etc. and prices vary, but a rough price guide would be good when i go to a shop to get a quote. ALSO did you all use half cuts or just rip outs?

Sorry for the long post but all info would be tops.:)

I have an FJ20DE at the moment if that helps with mounts and gearbox placement.:D

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500 eh

i'll be doin mine i spose, gotta get a shitload of dents out and straighten some panels  

surely 4 or 5 litres of 2 pac doesnt cost that  much

is anyone keen for one of the 260km/h dash clusters from r30.co.jp?

STU_R30

I got one of these speedo's, but don't hold your breath getting another, short of about $1000.00.

Jenesis, doesn't want to and isn't interested in trading internationally as they consider there are far to many problems with money transfers etc, etc.

Email me on [email protected] and I will show you a front bar that might appeal to you. I might be making them in limited numbers later this year, but don't want it copied as I would like to keep some anonominity to our R30's, don't what every R30 running around with this front on it, just the beasts.

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have all of you who have done the rb conversion done most of the work yourself? as i am looking in that direction soon but i am mechanically illiterate, (i know how to give tlc and external mods but as far as internally all i know is how to change the oil etc.) What im really trying to say is how much does it cost?? i know a lot of custom mods need doing etc. and prices vary, but a rough price guide would be good when i go to a shop to get a quote.  ALSO did you all use half cuts or just rip outs?  

Sorry for the long post but all info would be tops.:)

I have an FJ20DE at the moment if that helps with mounts and gearbox placement.:D

dr30man

I am in the throws of doing the RB30/25 DET hybrid conversion and basically, the main problem is the need to fabricate a new gearbox mount. The RB engine will sit on an Aust delivered MR30 L24E crossmember using the standard R31 engine mounts. I might have to use one R31 & one R30 mount to get the angle right, but it's just a bit of stuffing around.

If you are as mechanically illiterate as you claim, it would pay to get some help.

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to get it done by someone you'll pay around $5000 thats drive away, do it your self and it will cost around the same:

1/2 cut $2200

install $800

wiring $1000

these prices are to set up a standard rb20det, these other things to think of to, engine hoist, mounting

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here is a pic of my r30 skyline, i am going to mod it so far i have just put a K&N filter on and that is it. I was thinking about puting a new exhuast system thoughout. (maybe 2 1/4) would somebody plz give me some feedback on my car and some tips for mods.  

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=10150

cheers  :Bang:

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch, as it was my original project vehicle, before acquiring the HR30 Paul Newman.

Lower it using R31 front and rear shocks & inserts, they are 30mm shorter stroke at rear and 42mm shorter on the front. Get your springs custom made, I have lowered mine 40mm rear and 50mm front, with 200lb/in rear springs and 250lb/in fronts, increase the dia of the front sway bar to 22 or 23mm. Leave the rear standard. get a set of 6.5 x 15 wheels if staying relatively stockish/stealth, as the 205/60 x 15 performance tyres, sit better on 6.5's than on stock 6's.

For cheap go fast find an L20ET engine and bolt on all the turbo bits onto your L24E engine. If you get the L20ET ECU use that, it will do it's job very well, if you can get a 280ZX turbo ECU, it's better. Don't use boost much over about 7 psi, as the comp is higher in the L24E engine.

Now you will have something that will hold it's own with a stock REX and handle extremely well, depending on your ability, you might just be faster point to point than a REX.

Brake upgrades, DR30 fronts & rears are just bolt on options and they work very well, they are the same specs as Z31, so look them up on the DBA web site.

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it should as i have a ti 5door as well as the rsx and the dash is identical in shape and dementions and the rsx is fully imported. now that you mention it i dont think the extra lip would stay on my car to long!!!

Some startling facts for everyone.

ALL R30 SKYLINES WERE FULLY IMPORTED into OZ.

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about 8 grand eh

nice....ill keep that in mind as my dash only reads to 8 hehe

The OZZY tacho only goes to 8000, but it is for 6 cylinder, the 9 & 10000 tachos are 4 cyl and have to be modified here to suit the 6.

I have the 260 kph speedo & 9000 tacho, modified by Macarthur Instruments to suit 6 cylinders.

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ghostrider - i'll be keeping the rb under 8 grand, prolly a lot less for most driving.

so your saying the jap tachos can be made to work? feed me some info on yours and what the go is ....cause i want one.

Anyone actually bought some of that Jenesis gear?

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Stu,

I bought from them, the 260 kph Speedo on exchange. Had to send mine over to japan and they prepare it and return it as 260K model, New R/S guard badges, DOHC RS boot badge,3 x R30 plastic models (I am building a series of models, the Aust Gibson Racing Skylines, all replicas of the actual race cars), the R/S blanket and the only way to get them now, is from japan. The manager won't trade international, as they are far to busy with the domestic market, little does he know, his domestic market is probably coming here.

As for the tacho, I don't know what he did, I will ask next week, but it is now working as a 6 cylinder one.

The boost gauge (actual only vacuum gauge) I have removed and replaced with the volt meter from the hatch dash and it's all been wired in and working.

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Stu,

I bought from them, the 260 kph Speedo on exchange. Had to send mine over to japan and they prepare it and return it as 260K model, New R/S guard badges, DOHC RS boot badge,3 x R30 plastic models (I am building a series of models, the Aust Gibson Racing Skylines, all replicas of the actual race cars), the R/S blanket and the only way to get them now, is from japan. The manager won't trade international, as they are far to busy with the domestic market, little does he know, his domestic market is probably coming here.

As for the tacho, I don't know what he did, I will ask next week, but it is now working as a 6 cylinder one.

The boost gauge (actual only vacuum gauge) I have removed and replaced with the volt meter from the hatch dash and it's all been wired in and working.

nice to get all this info cheers, you must have looked around alot, towords your conversion theres a hr30 4door forsale at the moment with a rb30/25 for around $20,000, are you building the engine yourself or getting one from NZ?

try www.hlj.com for r30 models as i got the jenesis model and 2 other r30 2doors, thier very happy to take your money and depending on stock, took a week to get to me from the order date. just a question on the dash swap, with the 260km jenesis version do they use the same vertical rolling system (boost,pet,bat)or change them as well? one last thing did you have any problems with getting the badges sent over as i'm looking for the boot badges.

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I have an MR30 Ti Hatch, as it was my original project vehicle, before acquiring the HR30 Paul Newman.

Lower it using R31 front and rear shocks & inserts, they are 30mm shorter stroke at rear and 42mm shorter on the front. Get your springs custom made, I have lowered mine 40mm rear and 50mm front, with 200lb/in rear springs and 250lb/in fronts, increase the dia of the front sway bar to 22 or 23mm. Leave the rear standard. get a set of 6.5 x 15 wheels if staying relatively stockish/stealth, as the 205/60 x 15 performance tyres, sit better on 6.5's than on stock 6's.

For cheap go fast find an L20ET engine and bolt on all the turbo bits onto your L24E engine. If you get the L20ET ECU use that, it will do it's job very well, if you can get a 280ZX turbo ECU, it's better. Don't use boost much over about 7 psi, as the comp is higher in the L24E engine.

Now you will have something that will hold it's own with a stock REX and handle extremely well, depending on your ability, you might just be faster point to point than a REX.

Brake upgrades, DR30 fronts & rears are just bolt on options and they work very well, they are the same specs as Z31, so look them up on the DBA web site.

the rotors on the dr are something like 280mm across and the hr are 256mm across great upgrade if you can find a set, does anyone know if the calipers are different aswell?

i have a l20et turbo with manifold,ecu and full 2 1/2" exhaust for sale at the moment + other bits look in the for sale section!

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