Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah cool Mike...Sorta all happen in next few months, once we all have it figured!! Josh Crimmo's car *should* be 90% finished this weekend, we gonna attack it gusto and get it finished! Meh u can go HSV hunting, im going SR hunting :D:)

I just scored an email telling me to stay tuned so im assuming that things are gonna happen real soon..One can only hope

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rsx - will check the wiring, hopefully it is the only thing wrong wif it.

yeah mate i had a good look this morning i unhooked the wire from the sensor and tryed to start her no go would just kick over not fire up!!, work on this info.

the r32 wire thats connected to the sensor is blue, thats been cut at the sensor, a new plug was put on then run to the conection at the wiper motor and is spliced into a yellow with a black strip wire (there are 9 wires running into this plug and 2 are yellow) i'll confirm the colour tommorrow!

can someone help with tacho info, i know the signal running from the r32 ecu runs through a greenie blue wire, the problem is the r30 tacho has three wires, yellow blue and black, can some one let me know which r30 wire takes the signal? i'm thinking the black is earth yellow power blue signal???

i'll try to post up some pics of what my wiring looks like as i didnt do it and it looks like its all over the place, but it works!! also crimmo, those watanabe RS8 rims, what size are they as i'm looking at a set tommorro (ref to post 340 on page 14 for pic) any tips as thier wider than the hayashi's that were on the car to start with!

P.S. my car will be fin and engineered half way through next month in standard power output then once on road, rb25 turbo and unichip running the ECU she should be good for around 180-200rwkws!!

Hey rsx84, mine are speedstar RS-8 watanbe, 16x7, 16x8, paid $500 a few years ago, straight out of a container off the docks, got a bargain, they are sweet rims and if you can get them in the same size your laughin! :worship:

crimmo - to get them four spots on did you change to the r31 gts struts or did you adapt them with the standard mr30 stuff? im looking to do the 4spot converison soon and i have the 31 gts struts. anyone know of and hassles with this? and also crimmo, where did ya get that tower brace thingo (the blue thing) and how much?

also crimmo - was your car auto l24 once and did you get dragged by a trashed r30 with an rb20 down paynhem rd? (a while ago now)

haha yeh man! that was me!! small world huh!

With the R31 struts they should be floating disk from memory and you can slide on R33 non turbo disks, and R32 turbo 4 piston calipers, you may need brackets for the calipers, you may not too, but thats easy! :worship:

I bought the strut brace off a mate who bought it from some guy on performance forums, its adj, cusco, but i didn't notice a huge improvement as the thing f***ing sticks like glue with the coilovers anyway :cheers:

As I said I'll be down for a cruise just gotta get my little bit of damage fixed and front end back on. As would Tom, corey and Aids???? maybe mick if he buys it no doubt. We could get some decent numbers out with all decent cars. Show what old school skylines can do. A couple of weeks till my new clutch will be in. How long are others expecting to be off the road for? Shane not much longer now? crimmo?

shold be driving in 3 three weeks if all goes to plan! :worship:

Hey rsx84, mine are speedstar RS-8 watanbe, 16x7, 16x8, paid $500 a few years ago, straight out of a container off the docks, got a bargain, they are sweet rims and if you can get them in the same size your laughin! :worship:

bargain and then some, i'm paying $990 for 15x7,15x7.5 but they are sick and fill the guards like a glove, with the 3 peice bolts they look so much better than the cast sets you can get. fitted the strut brace today, i've got around 2mm of play before the inlet manifold hits the brace so might look into a stabalizer shock for the engine? whats the gap you have with your cusco??

haha yeh man! that was me!! small world huh!

With the R31 struts they should be floating disk from memory and you can slide on R33 non turbo disks, and R32 turbo 4 piston calipers, you may need brackets for the calipers, you may not too, but thats easy! :worship:

wiked!

where do i get the brackets or is it a custom, make your own job?

RSX84,

I have a set of 5 spoke MONZA Racing Rims for my HR, 16 x 8 & 16 x 7, 3 piece, +38 offset and they fit under the rear just great. Cost me $500.00 with tyres, good enough for rego/engineering.

After engineering, I am going to put a 20mm spacer onto the front hubs and get new inner rims made to widen the fronts an extra 1 inch inwards, making 8's all round, shod with Yokohama A-008 RS II's or A-032's or Dunlop D01J's, street legal racing tyres, 245/45 x 16.

Should make it stick like sh#t to the proverbial blanket.

My coilovers have 400 lb/in front springs and 330 lb/in rears, plus 25 mm front sway bar and 24 mm rear mounted on urathane bushes and semi rigid link pins made from 10 mm rose joints. The rear cross member and diff support are mounted using urathane bushes, all custom made by Noltec in Sydney at a cost of about $400.00. Lower control arms still have standard rubber bushings.

Up front I have adjustable caster bars and urathane bushes, lower control arms have standard rubber bushings on inner mounts and have replaced the ball joint outer with adjustable rose joints making camber adjustment infinite, with the help of the adjustable strut top on the JIC's.

I may have to change the spring rates after final weighing, more closer to completion, to create better balance between front and rear, with me and about half a tank of fuel in the car.

RSX84,

I have a set of 5 spoke MONZA Racing Rims for my HR, 16 x 8 & 16 x 7, 3 piece, +38 offset and they fit under the rear just great. Cost me $500.00 with tyres, good enough for rego/engineering.  

After engineering, I am going to put a 20mm spacer onto the front hubs and get new inner rims made to widen the fronts an extra 1 inch inwards, making 8's all round, shod with Yokohama A-008 RS II's or A-032's or Dunlop D01J's, street legal racing tyres, 245/45 x 16.

Should make it stick like sh#t to the proverbial blanket.

My coilovers have 400 lb/in front springs and 330 lb/in rears, plus 25 mm front sway bar and 24 mm rear mounted on urathane bushes and semi rigid link pins made from 10 mm rose joints. The rear cross member and diff support are mounted using urathane bushes, all custom made by Noltec in Sydney at a cost of about $400.00. Lower control arms still have standard rubber bushings.  

Up front I have adjustable caster bars and urathane bushes, lower control arms have standard rubber bushings on inner mounts and have replaced the ball joint outer with adjustable rose joints making camber adjustment infinite, with the help of the adjustable strut top on the JIC's.

I may have to change the spring rates after final weighing, more closer to completion, to create better balance between front and rear, with me and about half a tank of fuel in the car.

just thinking with your rb30/25 conversion will the brake set up your engineering it with be enough as thats a big power to weight ratio?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag.  Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws.  
    • @GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on.  Can it be an issue with my cluster?
    • Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"?
    • Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful...   Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.
    • Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement.   As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
×
×
  • Create New...