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r30 skylines


rsx84
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In the engine bay, next to the firewall??????

If you are above it looking over the o/s/f guard and it sits below the light relay on it's own, like at the bottom below 2 other relays, you don't need it unless your an AUTOMATIC (heaven forbid matthew) because it's the inhibitor relay, according to the manual.

But if you are looking at it from the n/s/f guard and it has some wires connected at the side of it, it is the horn relay.

Does this help?

You should have a manual, I got a spare that I got with my car if your interested. :ghost:

i have a manual for the mr30 which is an auto, the other thing is i have the fuse cover for it but its in japanese?? the english version for the mr30 states its an inhibitor relay for the auto mr30 thats why i had to ask as the 2door is and was a manual, in short what your saying is that its nothing to worry about?

i'm doing a trial and error to see why the lights and indicaters are not working, will be replacing the indicator stalk tommorrow as i think this is the problem!!

thanks anyway ghostrider!

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If your using high power globes, you have probably burnt the contacts on the switch, or somebody has at some time.

I have, an extra loom that came with my original iron mask front cut, an extra loom just for the lights.

It draws power from the main circuit breakers, but has a 30 amp relay for each globe and the loom is about an inch thick.

But the globes I'm using are the latest & greatest from IPF in Japan. Mains 55 W input/ 145 output and high beam, 80W input/ 165 output, but still using the extra loom to be safe.

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http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=50

interesting......

found this r30 while looking for a Calibra on carsales.com

since when have skylines been 4cyl-i thought there were only 6cyl?

anyway check it out... :rolleyes:

nicko in my work i drive around in a yellow van with flashing lights on the roof that comes to help when your car breaks down.

In my work you quickly learn which cars are reliable and which are not.

My advice would be to not buy a Calibra,Astra,Vectra etc etc.

Ghostrider are those headlight globes the blue tinged ones you see on some late model beemers and such?The extra wiring/relays is a good idea with brighter globes.(watts divided by power(12v) gives your current draw).Most of the factory relays are not able to cope.

Do you have any pics of your 30 for all to see?

Regards Todd

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Can anybody tell me What is the AFM in my mR30 and where is it, should i just take it out to get better proformance and what is the ECU. and how do i put a resitor in between the AFM and the ECU. Also would a RB30 coil do any good in a MR30 

Thanks again josh

The AFM is located at the bottom of your airbox AND I would be very surprised if it went at all! without it.

The ECU is located in the passenger side inside kick panel and it is Engine Control Unit and without this, IT NO GO AT ALL.

Forget the resistor, you get suckered into buying the 20Kw performance pack on ebay????? They only work in temperate conditions, if like today, "a stinker, HOT HOT HOT. it won't do anything more than eat a sh#t load of fuel.

As for RB coil, don't know, ask an auto electrician, but if it's the bosch coil, can't see a problem, but difficult to use the EFI coil packs. :ghost:

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Can anybody tell me What is the AFM in my mR30 and where is it, should i just take it out to get better proformance and what is the ECU. and how do i put a resitor in between the AFM and the ECU. Also would a RB30 coil do any good in a MR30 

Thanks again josh

looked a little harder for you about the msd coils, what you need to be asking about is the msd blaster coils as the other ones they are trying to sell you are a individual coil per cylinder and far to expensive!!

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question - for the firing order on an rb20, how do i run the leads to the coil packs.

is it sparky one to coil one, s2 to coil 2 etc...

or is it sparky 1 to coil one, sparky 2 to coil 5, sparky 3 to coil 3???

assuming the firing order to be 1-5-3-6-2-4

if anyone understands what im rambling about

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yeh and the resistor thing that you speak is as ghostrider said a slight waste.

my AFM was adjusted internally at the flap by Datrally in melb and they spent a long time doing it and many dyno runs till it was right not something you should really frig with especially when you don't even know where the AFM is on your car

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