Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Boys,

Got the RB25 into the MR30 and things arnt looking to bad, apart from the transmission xmember. I read somewhere that some one made a successful transplant with one out of an R31. Has anybody actually done this. And if not what have others had success with.

manual or auto rb25?

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the rb25det gearbox is bigger than the rb20, dont know if the rb25 box is the same as the det version though so you may be in a league of your own with the x member there pm ghostrider as he'll have somekind of answer for this one, sorry dude!

They couldnt get the brake rotors for my car in the end :)

Crimmo, if its ok I'd love to come and have a look at how your suspension and brakes are set up, cos I'm going to have to do something similar very soon as my rotors have been skimmed to undersize so that its still driveable until I change to a rotor thats more readily available

I just live around the corner btw

Cheers

Adam

Adam,

Our DR30 RSX rotors are exactly the same as early model Z31's

Fronts are DBA # 608 and Rear DBA # 605

Whoever told you they can't get them needs a manager (so that he stops handling himself)

When I spoke to an agent of DBA's a few minutes ago, I was told they're ex stock DBA.

Cheers,

Dennis

the rb25det gearbox is bigger than the rb20, dont know if the rb25 box is the same as the det version though so you may be in a league of your own with the x member there pm ghostrider as he'll have somekind of answer for this one, sorry dude!

Gearboxes:

The RB20 DE & DET are identical and same as R31 import box from RB20 DOHC engine.

The RB25 DET box is an entirely different kettle of fish, it's about 2 times the size and has the same ratio's as the GTR and come from the R33 GTS 25t

The crossmember is a FABRICATE it yourself deal, as it mounts a further 100/150mm further back. The fabrication is a good idea as when we do these conversions, we tend to get heavier right feet and on hard launch, the standard mounts JUST DON'T DO! Think about NISMO mounts as well, engine & gearbox.

And Matt,

Going to get you a postage cost tomorrow and will PM you the result.

Cheers guys,

Dennis

ghostrider. ah any code on were i can get a set of nismo mounts both engine and gearbox. Thanks for the info on the cross member, i'll look into.

UAS at Castle Hill has them, but don't fall over when you see the price.

But they better, they URATHANE, so heeps stronger, stiffer etc, etc.

What I did is check the level of the gearbox stock, and chocked up the R33 box to same point and then used a standard xmember as a guide to see how thick it had to be etc, etc.

Are you using an R33 box or R32/31, RB20?

Got a little erand for those guys with MR30/HR30 doing conversions.

Anywhere in your travels, there is a plastic snout as the cold air intake on the stock R30 air box inlet, there is a similar thing on the R31, but don't know if same.

I need an R30 one for my MR30 L24ET Ti Hatch,

ANYBODY HELP???????

Well the Z31 brakes are the same as R31 Import and R31 GTS1/2, so I figure the struts might be the same?

Not quite! Similar in size, but R31 are "HAT" type rotors, as they go over the hub, where as DR30 & Z31's bolt onto the back of the hub.

But in any case, I would be better off changing to R33 non turbo discs and R32 callipers like Crimmo's car?

R32 GTR is the best way to go, it's the upgrade that Jenesis - Japan sells and uses. 296 x 32 Rotors or Z32 which are 280 x 30 with Nissan alloy 4 spot calliper.

The Z32 set up is easy to get and a good balance with our 290 x 10 rears.

Secondhand Z32 fronts should cost you about $550.00 discs & callipers.

Has any one replaced the bushings in the rear cross member? I would like to do so but not sure where I could source new ones from or would it be a custom made type thing?

I replaced my rear xmember & diff support bushes with urathane.

Noltec made them Custom $450.00

But take some advice, if you want your car to handle, don't use urathane in the pivot point bushes unless you can affords to replace them every month

Got a little erand for those guys with MR30/HR30 doing conversions.

Anywhere in your travels, there is a plastic snout as the cold air intake on the stock R30 air box inlet, there is a similar thing on the R31, but don't know if same.

I need an R30 one for my MR30 L24ET Ti Hatch,  

ANYBODY HELP???????

i have a l24e and l20et as they are different and the r31 is very similar to the l24e one in length, the l20et is a lot shorter than the l24e!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...