Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

boost is not related to stock coils keeping up or not

they simply die of old age

so you can run 27psi if you like

one day they will die and misfire regardless of engine boost

once the engine is on load, it will misfire

so run whatever you like

1.3kgcm2 if you want

the turbo is a high flow, the ecu is std but has a haltch intercepter connected which has been tuned, The engine has forged pistons. Im guessing the coils are as old as the car. Someone told me it could be the higher boost is blowing out the spark?

breaking down spark is different to coils dying

coils die due to age, when they die, like i said, they misfire as soon as the engine is on load

ie one day its fine, next misfire city, so its all of a sudden.

spark breaking down is usually too much boost or wrong gap or intake temp too high

or combination of all three usually. if running less boost cures the misfire its probably spark breaking down

my coils lasted 160,000 then gave up

coils die due to age, when they die, like i said, they misfire as soon as the engine is on load

ie one day its fine, next misfire city, so its all of a sudden.

In my experience the typical coil misfire is the insulation giving out, everyone I know who has put work into decently re-insulating them have fixed it fine. I run up to 18psi on my original S2 R33 coils with extra insulation on them is going fine :(

Yea it happened really bad one night when the air was still pretty hot. I found a few FAQ's on how to insulate the coils, So i might give that a go and replace the spark plugs. What better out of BCPR6E or BCPR7E? Or do people recommend any other ones?

who can repair coils?

I have splitfires in mine atm, sometimes when I leave car to warm up in morning, it will run on 5 cylinders, ill go out, disconnect connection to coil #3, plug it back in and away it goes back on 6 cylinders.

But when I drive and give it a little stick, it starts miss-firing so i assume its that faulty coil?

who can repair coils?

I have splitfires in mine atm, sometimes when I leave car to warm up in morning, it will run on 5 cylinders, ill go out, disconnect connection to coil #3, plug it back in and away it goes back on 6 cylinders.

But when I drive and give it a little stick, it starts miss-firing so i assume its that faulty coil?

the 10+ year old plug or wiring is likely at fault vs a new ~ish splitfire coilpack set

You can also get the coil pack loom from Nissan for around $140AUD from memory... its pretty cheap if the plugs are a bit stuffed.

I purchased new for mine with the splitfires, good insurance.

And for the record i made 370rwkw on stock RB25 coils, they were in very good condition :D

You can also get the coil pack loom from Nissan for around $140AUD from memory... its pretty cheap if the plugs are a bit stuffed.

I purchased new for mine with the splitfires, good insurance.

And for the record i made 370rwkw on stock RB25 coils, they were in very good condition :D

yeah...quite a high price..it might be better to find a private seller they might charge 30 bucks or lower.

A private seller for a coil harness?

I paid $120 for mine from RHDJapan, with shipping it worked out to the same as getting it from Nissan but got it in one week instead of three. I looked up the harness on RHDJapan recently and they're up around AU$270 delivered now :)

I was troubleshooting a misfire when hot issue for AGES, turned out it was the insides of the coil harness plugs falling apart.

yeah...quite a high price..it might be better to find a private seller they might charge 30 bucks or lower.

I meant quite low price considering…

Why get one 2nd hand for $30 only to have the same damn problem 6 months later?

Makes zero logical sense. You cant get them much cheaper as bubba has pointed out :)

Pay the Nissan price, its actually reasonable in price for something OEM and after 10-15 years does need replacing

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...