Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dundan/and all,

I need some help re helmets. I don't know which one to get basically but I do know what I want (kind of).

Full face

2 or more intake vents

2 or more exhaust vents (vital)

Removable washable lining (not that necessary but it would be good)

I haven't decided on my budget yet but I don't want to spend $1k that's for sure.

I like the HJC AC-11 found here. The cheekpads are really good and they come in different sizes so you get a perfect fit. I saw an AC-10 at my local bike shop and it was very nice so the 11's must be just that little bit better I guess.

Beyond that I don't know what else to consider. The Arai and Shoei seem too expensive.

Also, I've noticed that the helmets are cheaper in the US. Is it worth importing?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25767-need-help-choosing-helmet/
Share on other sites

Well, personally I just bought a cheap full face helmet from a bike shop - the main criteria was what fit well - its amazing the different fits between brands.

Like Toulia said, it needs to be AS approved for CAMs use.

Of course, I don't know if that's good advice or not, coz despite some big crashes in the race car, I've never hit my head hard...not even in the roll....all I ever do is bounce it off a padded roll cage.

If you're looking at using it for competition or keeping it for along time I strongly suggest you get a nice helmet bag for it - most of the damage on mine has come from when I have been carrying it around, not when I'm wearing it.

You should be ok with importing as long as it has Snell rating, my bell dosent have a asur standard just the snell sticker on the inside, would not be legal on the road but is fine for karting, drags and should be good for cams events.

OK, not sure if you need it for CAMS, but if so, it must meet one of the following:

AS1698 (Aus)

Snell SA90, M90, SA95 (US)

SFI Spec 31.1, 31.2 (US)

SIS 88.24.11 (2) (Sweden)

DS 2124.1 (Danish)

SFS 3653 (Finnish)

ONS/OMK (Germany)

NF S 72 305 (French)

E22 02, 03 or 04 (European)

BS 6658-85 type A and AF/R (British)

I particulary like the "BS" standard :bahaha:

  • 2 weeks later...

I looked in the Trading Post and the prices were yucky so I went to Cash Converters for a speccy 'cause they are usually exie and they were all under $165. Some were filthy but I got a LAZER that was spotless, fullface and colour matched my track skyline. AS 1698 approved and only $95.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
    • I only recently purchased the vehicle, it came with the flex setup but the current tune is e85 only, which is why im wanting to get the tune redone to enable a mixture.  First i need to get the exhaust redone tho. I was thinking of getting a varex muffler but it sems they dont fit well in the 33 (hang low because of the valve mechanism which sticks out on top) and generally dont sound good. So that leaves me with redoing the entire exhaust (more resonators and mufflers) so its not a menace when i come and go from home, and then have the aes dump valve somewhere along the line to really open it up. I was thinking of having it before the cat but after seeing how insanely loud it will be (on a vl turbo) im thinking of putting it more towards the rear of the car, after one of the resonators. 
    • At this point I'm just 'hoping' it's the turbo seals. I did speak to someone who said it's normal for these turbos to have a bit of axial play? Not gonna lie I've never checked a turbo for axial play before but you could hear it tapping a bit as I moved it back and forth. Surely that's too much? My theory is (could be completely wrong), bad axial play, worn bearings, bad seals, oil into dump/compressor side, burns in exhaust = blue smoke. On a timing belt related note, my crank pulley was missing that front plate that sits in front of the timing belt. It's that metal round plate. It did have the rear one, and the woodruff keys are in the crank which was nice. Can anyone confirm if the NEO det engine has a front plate, im sure it would to protect the front of the timing belt or something. Water pumps...the pump I got was an NPW (yes grill me if I should've got a genuine one lol). It has a smooth mating surface, kit came with a pretty pathetic looking paper gasket. Do I need to use any RTV or just trust the gasket will work because its a smooth mating surface? Cheers legends have a good Easter break!
    • Cheers man, I thought the same.   Bit of an update on it all. It was definitely blue smoke, not grey after all. It didn't really smell oily but it was blue after all. Also puffing just the smallest amount on idle with no throttle.   I ended up pulling the intake and exhaust off and there was around 3mm of axial play on the turbo shaft. So I figured we'll that's buggered and sent it off to get hi-flowed at hypergear. Haven't got it back yet.   I haven't compression tested it yet. Had a look in the cylinder and cylinder 1 spark plug, looked a bit sooty but not oily. Then I've just started doing my timing belt because it's age is unknown.
×
×
  • Create New...