Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The highflow turbo will cost you 60% more to have done and there is down time while you are waiting for them to be done. The -7's are only $2250 for the pair or if you want to go get a pair of second hand N1's then they will do the same job.

The highflow turbo will cost you 60% more to have done and there is down time while you are waiting for them to be done. The -7's are only $2250 for the pair or if you want to go get a pair of second hand N1's then they will do the same job.
yes im aware of that, but no one's compared it to the high flow's

As above - why bother?

You can get the Garretts for ~$1200ea.

For a bush hi-flow of GTR turbos its probably $700ea, and probably not far of $1200 for ball bearing cores anyway.

Im not sold on it being 60% more expensive... but the simple reason of its baasically cheaper to buy one news that are proven to work... choice is simple there

As above - why bother?

You can get the Garretts for ~$1200ea.

For a bush hi-flow of GTR turbos its probably $700ea, and probably not far of $1200 for ball bearing cores anyway.

Im not sold on it being 60% more expensive... but the simple reason of its baasically cheaper to buy one news that are proven to work... choice is simple there

Bush bearing high flow is $1550 per turbo and BB high flow is $1800 per turbo.

Where did you get your prices from?

Bush bearing high flow is $1550 per turbo and BB high flow is $1800 per turbo.

Where did you get your prices from?

1.5k for a bush bearing hi-flow... wow.

hyper gear and so on, they are half that for a bush, as are many other suppliers/hi-flow around the 800-900 mark.

http://www.digi-hardware.com/turbocharger.html

I paid 1.1k for my GT30 when i had it rebuild a few years ago...

-New BB cartridge (if the shaft comes separate, new one of those also)

-New front wheel

-Machined comp housing

Turbine/turbine housing was OK.

Most of the cost is the cartridge at around 400-500 from memory and this was from Rotomaster here in Vic

ye but they are bush bearing and so on.. you have a GTR, you shouldnt be attempting anything on the cheap

?? its not like its risking anything with bush bearings, ill loose out a few hundred rpm on spool but until i get qualified i dont have a hell of alot of money. so they might just have to last a couple of years

and so what if i have a gtr?? do you think the bloke with his gts-t thinks any less of his car???

Its just my opinion.

You have a GTR, you put the best parts for the job on as you've got the best with a good head, plenum, TT setup etc. Why compromise?

Buying a GTR and not having money are two things that shouldn't be put together... and again, thats my opinion

i understand what your saying, im just trying to get best bang for my buck, after all that what the 32 gtr is know for, lol

so my story is im trying to get the car ready for doing a track series of some sort (maybe the street series one at barbagello that no-limits is organsing)

so stock turbo's have got to go, coz i dont want to have to rebuild the engine if the comp wheel blows up

so if i can save 400 or more on turbo's, that my new coil pack sorted :)

also getting vi-pex because im after decent protection for my car...

Its just my opinion.

You have a GTR, you put the best parts for the job on as you've got the best with a good head, plenum, TT setup etc. Why compromise?

Buying a GTR and not having money are two things that shouldn't be put together... and again, thats my opinion

yeah true, didnt think of it like that, no idea what condition they're in tho??

btw can anyone see anything i've missed in preparing for the track

another point is ill over fill the oil for now untill i get new sump :)

selling the standard turbos will net you something towards some new -7's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...