Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

iv done a quick search n havent found my answer

simply: im looking for a battery for my R34 Gtt...

what CCA am i looking for?

i have a pretty demanding sound system

thanx

Depends on your end goal, I have a 1200 Odessy, the CCA is worthless here in OZ, its a value based upon cold cranking amps, only good to know when it s below freezing. but more is better.

I'm not sure why but oz has outdated batteries floating around in cars, the kind that still take water? until moving here I havent seen one for at least 10 years. crap!!!, the odessey batteries are dry and can be mounted upside down it you wanted too?

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1200series.htm

PC 1200 Specs:

  • 1200 cranking amps for 5 seconds
  • 1090 cranking amps for 10 seconds
  • 900 cranking amps for 20 seconds
  • 825 cranking amps for 30 seconds
  • Short circuit current over 2600A
  • 44 amp hours
  • 78 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
  • CCA - 550 (Is this important?)

But I have had better luck with these batteries,

http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Products/OptimaRedTop.aspx

had the same battery for 11 years in my RX7 and VR4 with massive sound systems in them,, never failed

the odessey I have has failed once , had a dead cell when it was in my crappo commo with a big system. think it might have been a alternator failure that caused it.

these are best as long as you dont sit in the park for hours pounding bass, if so then you need to look at a deepcycle maybe, but then you need to drive a lot to charge it back up?????

but these batteries can be expensive, 200 or more but well worth it ,, and dont mix gold connections to lead posts if you can help it, corrosion is faster then normal once scratched. I chopped off the old nissan connections and put in some decent ones. and run another ground wire to the bracket of the alternator or engine and one thick one to the fender, not a painted part, this will improve power and helps misfires too.

hope this helps

Edited by sapphiregraphics

If you are also intrested a optima blue top. battery suited for the marine enviroment is also a great buy.. For $345 you get 850cca but it actualy is 1250cca and 55 ah rated also a bit more at 66ah.. iv just got one and im running a 2 1000w rms subs with 4 200w rms speakers and iv left it on mid mid vloume for about 90 to 100 min and it still started the car my experences

If you are also intrested a optima blue top. battery suited for the marine enviroment is also a great buy.. For $345 you get 850cca but it actualy is 1250cca and 55 ah rated also a bit more at 66ah.. iv just got one and im running a 2 1000w rms subs with 4 200w rms speakers and iv left it on mid mid vloume for about 90 to 100 min and it still started the car my experences

Blue tops, they tend to get short charged if you dont drive for a while after discharge.. hence the boat battery, boats get put on a charger at night to top them up. drive a short distance all the time and they will fail. (they get a memory of short charging and wont come up over 10volts in the end)

great for a parked car annoying the oldies for hours on end ..lol

there is a few other brands but they cost a bit more for virtually the same thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...