Need Help With My R34 Gtt, Paid $18000 For Cake!

[YauQ]

hi, all, i am a skyline fan, love skyline so much, so just bought my second skyline last month, its 99 R34 GTT. the car came with a 3 inch exhaust, (should be all the way from turbo), a hks filter and teinz coilover suspension. then i had a boost gauge intalled by soome one. Last week IS Motor Racing at Rockdale supplies and installed a G-readdy electronnic boost controller for me, did a tuning on the same day.(139.5 max power at wheel). The guy told me my car is pretty much in stock condition, and all the stock R34s are between 130kw - 150 kw, only brand new can do 206 kw, for a 10 yrs r34, any where between 130 - 150 kw is normal. then During the tuning, he tested 0.6 bar first, was ok. then he tried 0.8 bar twice, failed twice, the power or boost was like goes up then drop down. what he explained to me was the stock computer will cut the fuel off if over boosted and strongly suggested me to buy a power fc. At the end of day. the guy setted 0.6 as low boost, and 0.7 or 0.65 as high boost...

we all know 1 bar =14psi, so 0.6 = 8.4 and 0.8 = 11.2

my questions are

1. is 139.5kw sounds normal with above mods?? i searched Autospeed website, says there stock R34 can do around 140-150kw, then plus exhuast and filter can do 160-170, and 180-200 with power fc on top of all these. 139.5kw is just fxxk sad ans much less, though i heard every dyno machine is different, differnt dyno machine can give you different KW.

2. anything wrong with the tuning?? stock computer should allow u to boost to a safe level without fuel cut, i searched formum, most of you can boost to 11 or 12 psi with same mods as i have.

3. i could boosted to max 9 or 9.5 psi with high boost setting on the booster controller, and a low boost of 7psi before today. but today, no matter how hard i tried, i could only reached to just bit less than 7 psi with high boost, same as low boost. and i could feel the power or boost stopped, kind of fuel cut or boost dropped, even the speed stays. tried gear 2, gear 3, gear 4, and gear 5. all with highest boost of bit less than 7 psi, could reached to 9 0r 9.5 in the last few days.

dont know what happened to my car, really sad now, please help, thx for reading this, ai~~~~~~~ paid $18000 for a piece of shit.

[Cassbo]

my questions are

1. is 139.5kw sounds normal with above mods?? i searched Autospeed website, says there stock R34 can do around 140-150kw, then plus exhuast and filter can do 160-170, and 180-200 with power fc on top of all these. 139.5kw is just fxxk sad ans much less, though i heard every dyno machine is different, differnt dyno machine can give you different KW.

2. anything wrong with the tuning?? stock computer should allow u to boost to a safe level without fuel cut, i searched formum, most of you can boost to 11 or 12 psi with same mods as i have.

3. i could boosted to max 9 or 9.5 psi with high boost setting on the booster controller, and a low boost of 7psi before today. but today, no matter how hard i tried, i could only reached to just bit less than 7 psi with high boost, same as low boost. and i could feel the power or boost stopped, kind of fuel cut or boost dropped, even the speed stays. tried gear 2, gear 3, gear 4, and gear 5. all with highest boost of bit less than 7 psi, could reached to 9 0r 9.5 in the last few days.

dont know what happened to my car, really sad now, please help, thx for reading this, ai~~~~~~~ paid $18000 for a piece of shit.

1. All I have done to my R33 is wheels, it has stock everything else, and the few times I have but it on a dyno I have got in between 145.5 rwkW and 157.2 rwkW. I would definitely expect more from a stock R34, much less a slightly modded one. Like you said though, different dynos will read different values, but 139.5 rwkWs does sound low...

2. As far as I know, the stock ECU/turbo/engine will handle 12psi fine. I can't speak from experience because my car is stockzilla

3. I would start by checking your air filter for excessive dirt and your exhaust for large dents. Both of these will choke up the engine, allowing less boost and in turn power. It's also easier and cheaper than taking it to a mechanic for them to find

[Bullet32]

139.5rwkw sounds a little low, but as you explained it does only have an exhaust, pod filter and boost controller...

A good friend of mine has similar mods to his RB25 Neo (with a front mount intercooler) and it puts down 174kw at the wheels.

[Sheng]

How much boost are you running? if you are running factory it sounds about right, it's got nothing to do with how old the car is lol, if you buy a"brand new 99 R34 GTT" striaght out of the showroom now, would be still the same. When you say your exhaust should be all the way from the turbo, did you physically check? or do you just assume. my car ran 155rwk when i bought it 4 years ago, it had a full turbo back exhaust, boost gauge and gay earth cable lol, then after i fitted front mount+pfc, it made just over 200rwk. So yeah good luck with everything and Welcome to the forum

Also you might wanna do a search in "Forced Induction" Section.

[BOZ22N]

I would say that maybe the boost controller is installed incorrectly.

The air filter will give you 0 extra rwkw.

The Exh depending on make and type of cat converter should give you about 150 - 160 rwkw with 10psi boost. I think std boost is 9psi and with a good dump pipe you might get about 10psi with std actuator and lines due to the better design.

Things to check.

1. Exh for damage

2. Check that you do have a after market cat and that you do have a after market dump pipe

3. Check for boost leaks on the intercooler piping ( PM me if you don't know how to do this)

4. Check that the boost controller is hooked up correctly( you should have got a installation guide with the controller)

5. When was the last time the car had a full service plugs, oil, filters inc fuel etc?

Good luck

[djhatzigiannis]

got dyno print out? do a compression test .

[R34NOS]

depends on dyno settings as well..I had my car dynoed at Indy's and other workshop and the other workshop showed 15 kw more for some reason.. Reading sounds ok to me though at 0.6 bar

[YauQ]

firstly thanks for the help, u guys gave me some great ideas to start with .hmm, i think i will clean the filter this weekend. but i can't really tell the difference between stock dump pipe and after market 1, all i saw the pipe is big enough to be a after market. Indy from IS Motor rekon my exhaust is GFK , jap brand. and he told me stock R34 computer is differnt to R33. R34 will cut the fuel off when oover boosted, thats why he couldn't even run 0.8 on my car, and he rekon R34 stock can only run up to 0.65-0.7. doesnt make sense to me at all, my ex-R33 95 mode could do better, ran at 10 psi with $100 turbosmart booster.

i checked my boost controller, looks nothing wrong to me, IS motoring installed, shoulld be hooked up properly.

at the moment, my car running at 7 psi low boost and 9.5 or bit less than 10 with high boost.

what is stock boost for a R34??? some ppl says 7 and some says 9, got confused..... any pro know it?

anyway, i am getting jus jap cooling pro intercooler installed next week, and am ganna get a power fc, and get it tuned again, but i will go to CRD maybe,$1600 for pfc and another $800 for tuning. expensive, lol

and again, thank you all

[Wacky Dee]

I got my GTT about a year ago ... with the full turbo-back 3" exhaust (HKS Silentpower) it made 155-160rwkw so your reading does seem a bit low.

Also note that with the factory ecu you simply CANNOT run more than 9psi boost because the factory ecu is NOT tuned for it and it WILL retard the timing and your dyno results will suck. Stock cars run waaaaay too rich hence you get RNR (rich and retarded)

You can get your factory ecu remapped which is a LOT less expensive than getting a powerfc. I had my GTT ecu remapped (ignition timing and air-fuel ratios) by Toshi here in Sydney for about $400. If I were you, I'd get a FMIC first and then go and have the factory ecu remapped with better ign. timing and AFRs.

With a remapped ecu I now run 11.5psi (anything higher than that and you will blow your stock turbo eventually) and get 185-190rwkw. That's even without a FMIC and pod ... I wish I'd gotten a FMIC/pod because if I put them on now I'll have to have the ecu remapped again (which is another $300-400 ..the downside to not having a PFC is every modification you make requires a ecu remap).

If you're going to get an aftermarket turbo, then get a powerfc because remap won't be enough once you get a new z32 AFM, bigger injectors etc.

[Ryan.R34]

Since I purchased my stock gtt 2 years ago, this may give you an idea.

1. Installed FMIC, 3" cat back . dyno result 175kw

2. Installed Apexi PFC and Apexi BC, Apexi Pod filter . tuned dyno result 189kw - ran out of fuel pressure and injectors maxed out anyway at 12psi

3. Installed Walbro fuel pump, coil packs, high flow injectors, Z32 AFM, front & dump pipe @15psi, tuned dyno result 212kw

Now in the market for a turbo upgrade before the stock turbo gives up otherwise very happy with this result, car is very nice to drive.

[clip14]

a tuneable ecu is a good idea. invest in that, and go back to the dyno

[666DAN]

Stock R34 ECU will cut when the boost sensor sees 4.7v which is between 13-14psi. I've seen low figures from cars with dodgy knock sensors, my ones failed at one point also.

Have you checked the ECU for any error codes?

[eeiko321]

only brand new can do 206 kw,

well thats at the motor/flywheel.

what it shows on the Dyno is Rear wheel Kilowatts

an estimated on many cars...you lose 30% through the drivetrain

so say 206 - 30% = 144kw @ the wheels

but remember....this can be affected by alot of things.........is your clutch worn?.......this can play a big role

[clip14]

many reasons for the dyno figures

ambient air temp

fuel quality

any altitude correction factors

differences between dyno types

there could be nothing wrong. the only way to find out is to back to back dyno on the same day on the same dyno your car and another GTT.

[SECURITY]

pm sent about workshop.

[Wacky Dee]

If you're in Sydney take it to Unigroup (www.unigroup.com.au) they will be able to tell you what's going on and give you an accurate dyno readout..

[YauQ]

thx all of u, i fixed my car, there wasnt any problem, i retuned my car in CRD and got 164rkw, i tihnk that Indy in rockdale just cant tune.

i will never pay shit money to a shit tuner again. rather pay bit more to get a proper job.

[evil_weevil]

164 still seems a bit low.

buy my car, instant upgrade for 255 rwkw

agree with delta force on unigroup too

s13deviat bought his s13 and was tuned by a certain tuner....had issues....major issues, after speaking with s13deviat about my dealings with Yavuz and Unigroup, Ando's car was running from 190rwkw to 210rwkw or so and was so much more driveable throughout rev range when on 190rwkw from previous tuner....

[RT33]

Do not ever go back to Indy. I know i never will. It almost seemed like he was making shit up saying my boost controller was crap and was not able to hold 1 bar and tried to sell me a HKS one for $600 or so when i just installed a Profec B II a week or 2 prior. His dyno also reads extreemly low. I think he does this on purpose so he can make stuff up about your car and charge you a heap to fix something that wasn't even a factor in the first place.

My car only goes to Unigroup for tuning now.

Glad to hear you got it all sorted though.