Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to replace 2 rims on my 33 gtst and seeing as i cant find the right replacements anymore (17x9 avs model 5 copies) it looks like i'm now going to buy a new set of 4 and replace the whole lot.

So i'm decided on the rim, work CR Kai's, but i'm tossing up on the size and color.

The size is due to clearance and offset, i need to make sure they fit or i've wasted my cash. I could go for 17's like i have already, but it seems like its easier to get rubber for 18's.

As for colour, i currently have shadow chromed rims but i'm considering bronze (cars gunmental).

Can anyone comment on fitting CR Kais on a gtst (17 or 18's, any problems getting them to fit?)

And does anyone have a pic of a gunmetal skyline with bronze rims, does it look naff or ok (in my imagination it looks pretty good).

Cheers for all the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257884-r33-rims-colours-and-offsets/
Share on other sites

^^^ Everyone's idea of "perfect" varies, those sizes and offsets you listed would be far from perfect on a R33 IMO.

If i were you Messiah i'd be going 18x9.5 +12 all around. Guard work will depend on what tyres you plan to run and amount of camber front and rear.

IMO CR Kai's look like compete AIDS in any offset above 30+, the lower offset CR's have that awesome taper look

yeah, but i said in the stock guards... to fit 9.5 +12's you need a fair bit of work unless you want to run like 215's... i'm not including cambering them in either btw... i run my rears cambered a lil out for traction

^^^ Everyone's idea of "perfect" varies, those sizes and offsets you listed would be far from perfect on a R33 IMO.

If i were you Messiah i'd be going 18x9.5 +12 all around. Guard work will depend on what tyres you plan to run and amount of camber front and rear.

IMO CR Kai's look like compete AIDS in any offset above 30+, the lower offset CR's have that awesome taper look

Holy sh!tballs, that would require some guard rolling/pulling, removal of inner linings, negative camber and stretched tyres (prob 215/45) to get under the front. The rear would need a roll and pull and 215/45 as well. Prob still wouldn't fit.

The rims would stick stick just outside of guards at the front leaving you open for defect notices - this particular defect is something the cops are starting to hand out like candy due to all the 200sx and silvia "rides" getting around with that look.

I'm not a fan of the Kai's though - too 2007 for me. Streched tyre fad will look ghey in a year or 2 as well. Fine if you want to update your rims like your boyfriend updates his shoes.

IF you want a good fit with correct tyre sizes the largest front is either 8" + 24 or 8.5" +30

Rear is 9" +29 or 9.5" +35 (assuming you want to fit 245 or 255 tyres to suit)

Even these may require lipping the guard depending on camber and tyre width but on average would be level with inside of guards.

Edited by simpletool

for reference these are my 18x9.5+30 rears with positive camber (for traction not fit) tyres are dunlop lemans 245/40/18.

guard work done by athid (180athid) was just a minor pull/roll....

DSC00011.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...