Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Whenever I come to a stop my car will idle fine, but then after a few seconds it will drop and the car stalls.

Sometimes it won't stall and it kicks back up to normal again.

Previously my R34 was running fine, yesterday I bought a cannon muffler and got it installed, and it didn't have the problem beforehand.

I took it to my mechanic and he reset the ECU but I'm still having the same problem, he then increased the idle to 900 but still it drops and comes close to stalling (but hasn't stalled on me with the increased idle yet).

Has anyone had this problem before? Can you please help me diagnose the problem? :blush:

Any help/advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257920-idle-dropping-car-stalling/
Share on other sites

I'm not a mechanic, but if you took it to a mechanic who simply increased your idle i would search for a new one! I would start by checking your afm and give it a clean with spray on contact cleaner (available from dick smith etc)

I have no idea, but remember it could just be a coincidence. Don't kill hours trying to solve the problem based on the muffler install, start with simple, cheap 5 minute checks and see if it helps. If you had installed a full exhaust that was much more free flowing and had an oiled pod filter the extra air drawn through can put oil on the afm and cause false readings. While this may not be the case, it is where i would start before doing more time consuming things, which is why your mechanic tried simply resetting the ecu before anything else like getting the spark plugs out and checking for fouling etc

Once again though, I'm not a mechanic

its gotto do with back pressure of the exhaust if its related to the cannon, was the old reonator removed and replaced with the canon? ive got a feeling its the 02 sensor and the ecu combined, I had the same problem in a manual r33 gts-t.

My solution was partly due to a number of things...

i cleaned AFM,

Changed spark Plugs,

Cleaned throttle body....

gained alittle more power and car stopped stalling, but it would still drop almost to a stall at roundabouts and stuff....

i ignored the problem since it didnt complertely stall anymore and just thought its an old engine....

i changed the 02 sensor from the original nissan one to an EL falocon 02 sensor for $70 from repco, cut the wires and tied them together and replaced the old one....not only did i gain an extra 100-200km/tank but to my surprise my revs stayed constant at idle and never dropped below 700rpm no matter how i drove it...

most likely your 02 sensor is broken coz they meant to be changed every 40 000km anyway. you will spend $70 on a falcon one like i did or $200ish for nissan replacement part, either way you will definately get your money back by saving fuel over a few months...

see if that works, and if it doesnt, the money you save from fu3el with the 02 sensor will help you to pay a profesional to find the prob...

its located at the beginning of your exhaust pipe just after the engine....

100% the O2 sensor is dead, my car is doing it right now as well and has happened a few times in the past. Change the sensor and everything runs like new again :down:

Which O2 sensor? And where is the O2 sensor located? (car is a R34 98 Automatic, 4door non turbo)

The 02 sensor is located on the exhaust manifold. If you're not too good with wiring etc - best stick with a genuine 02 sensor :D

Also check for vacum leaks (vacum hoses) and the main intake pipe between the afm and the throttle body - make sure its on firmly.

While you're at it it is a good time to clean the throttle body too.

  • 11 months later...

mate belive me,

try these steps.

before u stops the car put it into N. see how u go. if it not stall that is ur Automatic Transmission.

just chk ur fliud level. 100% its too low. top up with fluid in between L-H make sure to not to over fill.

see how u go.

if not, dont waste your time with doing crap.

possible case is ur TCC Solenoid in the auto box. it is not a expenvice part. [$50-70] if u have a skill u can do it by ur self. other wise take it to good transmission repare workshop.

if u in sydney PM me i will tell u where to go.

Hey guys,

Whenever I come to a stop my car will idle fine, but then after a few seconds it will drop and the car stalls.

Sometimes it won't stall and it kicks back up to normal again.

Previously my R34 was running fine, yesterday I bought a cannon muffler and got it installed, and it didn't have the problem beforehand.

I took it to my mechanic and he reset the ECU but I'm still having the same problem, he then increased the idle to 900 but still it drops and comes close to stalling (but hasn't stalled on me with the increased idle yet).

Has anyone had this problem before? Can you please help me diagnose the problem? :banana:

Any help/advice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you really don't want to touch anything you can try to trigger off the timing loop just to see if it's sparking semi-regularly. Don't trust it for actual timing measurements.
    • Also replace the fuel filter aswell today
    • Hey everyone, I have a r34 GTT s1, im having a problem with my skyline, ive let the car sit in the garage for the last couple of months and havent run it and ive gone to fire her up today and it cranks but doesnt fire, i have been having problems with it previously where it wouldnt start again after driving it around for a bit. It use to start fine on cold start ups but if you drove to the petrol station and fueled it up and went to go start it again, it would just crank and not fire untill you let it rest for a few hours, the car doesn't over heat it sits perfectly in the middle while driving when warmed up. Im thinking this problem has caught up maybe and now it just wont start at all. The car runs on e85, ive checked the e85 seems to be fine. I can hear the fuel priming before you go to start it and checked all my fuses and relays. List of things I replaced today - New battery - New sparkplugs - New Coolant temp sensor I was thinking about testing the CAS but from what ive seen online, if the CAS is cooked, the car will actually start up but then die instantly? as mine just doesn't fire at all. Does anyone have any idea or have encountered the same problems? thanks
    • Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs.   Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving...  Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...  
    • When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages...   My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that!
×
×
  • Create New...