Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, introducing myself as required by this site.

About me (my cars): My daily drive is an r31, my weekend car is a z31, and my strip car is a SSS coupe with 800hp. There's always a few more things going on, but for now this is enough for introductions sake. . .

r31: straight complex gas (because it's simple, go figure), custom induction (got rid of all those nasty kinks), custom z31 rear IRS subframe (the handling is now amazing!) and LSD diff conversion (no more destroying crappy pintara diffs!).

z31: straight complex gas, custom ss316 plenum chamber (the original starves the left hand side intake in favour of the right side), buick 3.8 v6 throttle body (read crumpledore :P but 10% bigger :) ), custom induction (those kinks again), custom in cabin programmable ignition (very sweet), custom quick-shifter (and looks like a manual!) and modified overdrive selector (now a forth gear on the selector), modified gearbox line pressure (full pressure all the time, works well with manual styled shifter), dropped on it's guts with custom body kit (sick as!) and accessories. etc.

SSS: 200b SSS coupe, (extremely rare, only five or six left in the country) stripped down and fitted with a 280zx rear subframe (diff - CIG locker, brakes etc included) and a 318 mopar fireball heart transplant (now a stage V 324 @ est 800hp!) and a stage II 727 torque flight with B&M reinforced sump (stops 'em twisting with big hp). Dry weight approximately 1000kg and the strip is about 200 meters from home!

Most of my cars are in constant development, which leads me to my question. . .

Does anyone know the wiring layout/schematic for the series III rb30/r31 gearbox? I have recently swapped over the engine and box from a series III into my series I, and have come up a little short of trumps. The visible symptons are no 1st or OD, and probably soon glazed or fried clutches from crappy line pressure?

After identifying all the wires on the series III gearbox selector, I have noted that the 1st gear, and 3rd gear wires have no-where to go in my vehicles wiring loom. Is this a problem?

As for the rest of the wires from the box, I have little idea at all, and any assistance would be appreciated. I assume that this box would be hooked up to a map sensor and probably in part co-ordinated by an ecu. Electronic torque convertor lock (ETCL) up activated how?

I am not really worried about modulator valve idealisms, as I'm quite happy to run full pressure all the time, and I reckon i could hook up the ETCL via the OD switch perhaps, but obviously I need 1st and OD.

Any clues (ie, is the earlier box comparible strength wise?), or a schematic, would be greafully recieved.

Sincerely,

Maniax

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258083-hey-all-ot-some-qs-and-as/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...