Buyina A Stagea Help

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

hi all im selling my 180sx and upgrading to a stagea (wc34) and was just after some tips on what to look for and other traps when looking for a decent stagea (ive already read the stickyd buyers guide) also what type of fuel consumption are people getting?? all input is appreciated

[_Ryan_]

make a list and i will answer

i am probably selling up this year for a 180 or s14, want something little and fun again before i need a family car haha

buying- drive MANY, consider what mods will be done asap, and use this to get the price down... mine needed shocks and tyres for RWC, so i got it cheaper and put bilteins and RE001's on.

check for rust around the mirrors and tailgate

check for broken cup holders

dont buy one with a cut battery tray-illegal

i have a shiftkit, full exhuast with highflow cat(under 90db )and a FMIC, i am down to a 1/4 tank right now and done 430km

the exhaust is the best thing for economy besides an SAFC or ECU

if not upping the boost, just get an R34 SMIC instead of an FMIC, more responsive

sunrooves are fkn PIMP... take it to a hand car wash and go nuts, check for leaks

either find one dead stock that has been a daily or family car, that is well maintained, or get one with QUALITY modifications

doesnt matter what the KM's are, the timing kit MUST of been done

series 1 with a DAYZ kit is the best looking IMO, the kit is ~1500AUD+ to purchase second hand, easier to find one with one

will add more later

[chef_stagea]

argeed with last post...

rust on top of strut towers, nere fuel tank sumtimes.

remember its a 10+ yr old car so theres going to be 'beat down'points

shipping from interstate will cost you around the 600$ mark

and changing fron state to state will requier some form of check.

remember if its too good to be true it probly is. listen for noises in the engin that may be weird,

if theres a cut in the battery seat, or the fan is slightly trimmed its been FMIC, check the bolt that holds the boost solinoid down

coil packs are exensive and will need to be done when they go... if the car jolts under boost its probly them

being boosted is ptobly the only drama... if the hoses look liek there all in the proper spots u should b fine

[KiwiRS4T]

Rust under the door mirrors is the most common fault. I have had two Stageas and got both of them professionally welded/painted.

I would be looking for one that already has the Bilsteins, sway bars, fmic if you want that already done, and a manual if that is your goal. If it's not blowing smoke and doesn't rattle these things are good for at least 300,000km.

p.s.I am glad you said fuel consumption and not fuel economy - these will go like a 6L V8 and use petrol accordingly.

p.p.s I have just bought my third Stagea (the first was n/a, the 2nd written off - my fault, not the car).

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

doesnt matter what the KM's are, the timing kit MUST of been done

could you add on that a bit please mate

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

thanks for the input guys

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

Rust under the door mirrors is the most common fault. I have had two Stageas and got both of them professionally welded/painted.

I would be looking for one that already has the Bilsteins, sway bars, fmic if you want that already done, and a manual if that is your goal. If it's not blowing smoke and doesn't rattle these things are good for at least 300,000km.

p.s.I am glad you said fuel consumption and not fuel economy - these will go like a 6L V8 and use petrol accordingly.

p.p.s I have just bought my third Stagea (the first was n/a, the 2nd written off - my fault, not the car).

how do the n/a stageas gor or should i just get a turbs one

[QWK32]

could you add on that a bit please mate

he means the timing belt, idler bearing and water pump must be changed. nissan reccomends it to be done at 100 000km, but it is good practice and also gives you piece of mind that it be done.

Edited February 22, 2009 by QWK32

[BensDR30]

how do the n/a stageas gor or should i just get a turbs one

N/A models are not eligible for SEVS/RAWS (whatever it is these days) importing.

The models you'll fine in Australia are (I think!):

WGNC34:

S1 - RSF, RSFV (+ DAYZ), 260RS

S2 - RSV, RSFV (+ DAYZ), RSFS, 260RS

NM35 (S1 only, at this stage...):

250tRSFV (+ DAYZ), 250t RXF, 250tRSFV HICAS, AR-X, Autech

There were also 'aero' models of most of the above. From what I've seen around, the most common ones are ;S1 RSFV/260RS, S2 RSFV/260RS/RSFS, NM35 250tRSFV, AR-X.

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

sweet cheers guys

[_Ryan_]

Rust under the door mirrors is the most common fault. I have had two Stageas and got both of them professionally welded/painted.

I would be looking for one that already has the Bilsteins, sway bars, fmic if you want that already done, and a manual if that is your goal. If it's not blowing smoke and doesn't rattle these things are good for at least 300,000km.

p.s.I am glad you said fuel consumption and not fuel economy - these will go like a 6L V8 and use petrol accordingly.

p.p.s I have just bought my third Stagea (the first was n/a, the 2nd written off - my fault, not the car).

i get 9-12L/100km atm, lead footed suburb driving and fwy driving, not fwy cruising 450-550km per tank

avoid one that has been boosted, but look for the mods you want done already... LIKE MINE

[I_Wanna_Skyline]

i get 9-12L/100km atm, lead footed suburb driving and fwy driving, not fwy cruising 450-550km per tank

avoid one that has been boosted, but look for the mods you want done already... LIKE MINE

9-12 sounds sweet thats heaps better than what people have benen telling me

[_Ryan_]

i was using heaps more, dump/front/cat solved that

[Stagea_Neo]

Get a racv check for peace of mind also.

Try and find one that looks like no one has moded/cut anything anywhere, whether that be interior or under the hood.

Llike any car, try to find one thats clean no signs of rust, dints, hacked interior from shit stereo installs, the usual:

-footwells - check for damp carpet (could be evidence of leaking from heater core or water coming in around firewall.

-spare tyre area under carpet - check for water/dampness

-no smokey exhaust.

-no roughness/shunting from the gearbox/auto when accelerating.

-rust under mirrors & around tailgate lights. (already been said)

Personally I was lucky, found one that did in fact appear to owned by '1 lady owner',

it is that clean/neat/mechanically perfect, looks like it had only been a few months out

of the showroom and drives like one....for a 10yr old car!

I keep getting asked 'when did Nissan release this, is it new?'.....There jaws drop when i say its a 98 model.

p.s. in my opinion your better to get one that has not been moded, start fresh with you own mods and you know what has/hasnt been done. Also you'll find a car thats been moded has tended to have had a hard life.

Edited February 24, 2009 by Stagea_Neo

[RubyRS4]

Get a racv check for peace of mind also.

Try and find one that looks like no one has moded/cut anything anywhere, whether that be interior or under the hood.

Llike any car, try to find one thats clean no signs of rust, dints, hacked interior from shit stereo installs, the usual:

-footwells - check for damp carpet (could be evidence of leaking from heater core or water coming in around firewall.

-spare tyre area under carpet - check for water/dampness

-no smokey exhaust.

-no roughness/shunting from the gearbox/auto when accelerating.

-rust under mirrors & around tailgate lights. (already been said)

Personally I was lucky, found one that did in fact appear to owned by '1 lady owner',

it is that clean/neat/mechanically perfect, looks like it had only been a few months out

of the showroom and drives like one....for a 10yr old car!

I keep getting asked 'when did Nissan release this, is it new?'.....There jaws drop when i say its a 98 model.

p.s. in my opinion your better to get one that has not been moded, start fresh with you own mods and you know what has/hasnt been done. Also you'll find a car thats been moded has tended to have had a hard life.

I've got one for sale right now. 122,000 kms. New waterpump and timing belt. Stock as, except for pod filter and 18" ROH mags.

I was tempted to mod mine to make it more 'attractive' to buy, but went with keeping it stock as blank canvass for the buyer.