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hey war, i installed the same plugs in my rb20det sil and it has stopped the miss when the foot is down but at idle it's missing a fair bit now since plug change. Im glad to hear im not the only one. Im going to do vacuum lines first and also reset the ecu and then it's an injector clean and flow test i think. Let me know how you go though ok cuz there is a possibility you may have the same problem!!

Thanks

Jayson

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Originally posted by Adam 33

Does anyone know the part number for copper plugs for a R33 GTST gapped at 0.8mm

NHK's BCPR6ES or the (more recommended by NGK) BKR6E

Having no number at the end of the model number denotes a 0.8mm factory gap.

I slapped a set of BCPR6E but with out the S I think it was as they had the V Groove electrode. They ran fine and when I pulled them out 20,000km's later they still looked fine. Needed to be regapped but looked ok.

I then slapped in a set of BCPR6ES which don't have the V groove in the electrode as I couldn't find any. Instantly I noticed mid range was slightly hesitating. I had to pull some timing out to get it to run nice in the mid or drop boost. I slapped the regapped 20k old plugs in and I was able to pump more timing in to it again. Not sure what was going on there but maybe the V groove in the electrode made a slight difference?!?! I've since put the non-v grooves in the car and pulled a little bit of timing out of it.

I'm running 15-16psi.

Compared to the Plats that were origionally in the car is I found the Coppers to not idle as nice and smooth. BUT this could also be due to the coppers being a colder heat range. Not really sure as the slight miss on idle developed around the same time as the plug change. Maybe, Maybe not.. :P

Also.. Please loosen the intake pipe over the rocker covers and fling it up out of the road as when I first did my plugs I put a hairline fracture in the porcelin of no. 5 or 4 (one of them) spark plug. It drove and idled fine came on to boost and would fart like fark from 4000rpm-5000rpm then start to pull again.

  • 4 months later...

WLD747,

Dont run the BKR7E. Head over to NGK's www site and see for your self what the lettering means. Use BCPR6E or BCPR7E depending on power level.

BCPR?E is the correct plug for the RB's. From memory there is a jap spec and a normal spec. Basically there is a difference in height.

I run the 7 heat range coppers in both cars and the stocker does fine but with the track car I regap before every event to 0.8mm. Leaving the crap cover off lets me do this in 20 mins which is no biggie as I consider the cover unecessary. Sure it idles a little rough on cold mornings but that is part of having giddyupandgo sometimes. Won't care when I get to Brisvegas.

Hi Guys, platinum and iridium plugs are not used for better spark, as someone said copper is a better conductor. The reason the platinum and iridium plugs are used is they last longer and the labour to change them as charged by a dealer is way higher than the extra cost of the plugs.

My advise is if you change your own plugs, then use copper. If you have to pay someone to do it, use platinum, it works out cheaper.

Platinum and iridium don't like lead at all, so if you run fuel with any lead in it, then copper is your only choice.

Hope that helps some more

Just so as everyone is aware, NGK BCPR7E plugs (V-groove, 7 heat range, copper plugs) are discontinued and no longer available.

The S in BCPR7ES stands (in slang) for STANDARD. The ommision of the S can imply a V-Groove plug.

This is very general however. More accurately, for BCPR7ES11

----------------------

BC indicates a Thread size of 14mm and a Hexagon size of 16mm

PR denotes the construction type. In this case (P)rotected insulator type - ®esistor type

7 shows the heat rating number - For NGK, the Higher the number the colder - the lower the hotter.

E indicates the Thread Reach. E = 19mm (H = 12.7 etc)

S tells you the Firing End Construction. - S = Copper Core [or standard] center electrode (Y - V-Groove center, P - Platinum Electrode).

11 is the Spark Gap in mm.

------------------------

There are many other exclusions and exceptions but that covers the more common naming syntax for NGK plugs.

Hope this helps.

Adrian

that might explain why his car started to misfire again.

No. The platinums were fine until I put the bleeder on and upped the boost.

I put the platinums in (gapped at 1.1mm) after having driven 10,000km with coppers. There was no initial difference in performance. At this stage the car only had a cat back zorst. I then regapped them to 0.8 (after antuan's recommendations :D ) and was pleasantly surprised at how much smoother acceleration had become.

I then added a front/dump pipe and bleed valve. The car was making more power but at less boost because anything higher than stock, misfire would own me.

After some research on plugs I found that copper conducts better than platinum, copper plugs have a bigger head and thus easier to produce a spark, and carbon deposits have a higher bias to bond with platinum so coppers are able to clean themselves (easier) if you give the engine a boot. The only area platinums 'win' is life length coz platinum is more solid/dence than copper.

If you dont plan to modify your car go platinums otherwise coppers win hands down :uh-huh: .

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