Jump to content
SAU Community

Bov On An Auto...

WOG BOY

By WOG BOY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
Posted

hi all,

i did a quick search and couldnt find exactly what i was after.....so i thought i would quickly post something up in here...

Ok have a S2 r33.....rb25det......so u know what ur workin with....and its auto

wantin to put a BOV on it....?? is this ok/safe to do?? i have been told about stalling problems by doin so?? or do i simply clean out my AAC out and all that to stop that???

so yeah, jus finding out if its all ok to install one and that i wont have any problems with it...

let me know

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

yeah it will stall....

even with a full block off plate in the bov (for fulleh sik flutterz) it will stall.

at low rpm, like braking to turn a right angle corner across lanes slow speed etc. aftermarket bov or blocked bov will stall with the auto.....

so.. what to do?

grab a piece of metal, thicker than a coke can preferably.

grab the bov gasket, and cut metal to shape. Im using some .5mm thick aluminium plate.

so cut to shape, drill 2x bolt holes, then with smaller drill bit drill a couple of small airflow holes - circular like in the centre for some minor airflow

install nice and tight

test drive, you'll still have the bov, but it will flutter a bit, boost feels "tighter" (?),

because it isnt entirely blocked off it wont ever stall but sounds pretty cool (just like a $200 aftermarket bov, tried that) and boost pressure seems to be slightly more "on tap" than previously

wife loves it, hated it when she stalled it, so I drilled the little holes in the middle of the block off plate and now it doesnt stall but flutters very nicely indeed :P hektic-br0

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4438876
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
ahh ok cool....so jus get a blanking plate...and install one of them....but make sure i put some small holes in the middle of it so it has some air flow to stop the stalling???

yes!!

coke can will do, but thicker metal seems less dodgy to me :P

my centre-drilled bov block off plate is nicely filed and machined, 30min home project after a few bongs ey? !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4438884
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

hi

i am confused what you want to do?

a) make the car make bov noises?

b) fit a different bov?

c) make it flutter ?

if a, fit a pod filter, the std GTST already has a bov

if b, change the bov to a different one, just dont go for an AMTO venting one, that will make the car stall

if c, block the std bov off as Tangles has said, that will make it surge and flutter

the stalling occurs when using an AMTO setup, that is, you dump the bov'd to the atmosphere

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4438905
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

on auto paul even with full plumback ater-market bov it will stall

with blocked bov it will stall

only ever occasionally but will do

so you do the bov backing plate, put some small holes thru the centre of it, and it wont stall, but will be like option ©

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4438956
Share on other sites
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

Brendo, you FAIL :thumbsup:

Blocked bov, havent stalled it yet! Rev's hunt if i am WOT thru 1-3 then stomp on the brakes(eg, fwy :laugh: )

i blocked mine to see if my FMIC would make good sounds, its shit, so unblocking it.

even if it does stall, if you can drive with webbers, you can drive a car with an atmo or blocked bov

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4439232
Share on other sites
BeEnAr Experienced

BeEnAr

Posted
Posted

Had no probs on the rally car with atmo BOV and it runs AFM. Used to with the old Blitz but changed it to a GFB Stealth and set to full atmo and no probs. Used to stall with the blitz as the piston wasn't closing so had to continually stab the throttle when braking to a stop. Was no probs though.

Was thinking of taking the Stealth off the Mazda to put on the GTR cos you can vent just enough air back to the inlet to stop the stalling but still get the sound of the atmo BOV. Dunno yet if I'll do it but might be fun for a while, I do miss the sound it makes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4439898
Share on other sites
Guest jaysiin001

Guest jaysiin001

Posted
Posted

i have been told stalling issues will occur.

however i have a megasonic on my r33 manual. it does not stall.

it only stalls if i have the a/c going and when i change gears. but, if i change gears at a normal pace it stays alive. but it i change gears slow and let the revs go down, it will stay down and stall.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258106-bov-on-an-auto/#findComment-4439963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...