Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, its easy as. Basically you spray on the lubricant and then wipe the piece of clay over the section until it feels smooth. Then buff the residue off with a mf towel. Plenty of different clays out there. I used dodo juice clay. Check out the polishes/waxes sticky in this section for plenty of info :thumbsup:

I clayed my car a little while ago and couldnt believe the difference it made.

The paint felt and looked new again. It was smooth to touch, shining like new again and looked beuatiful.

I used the Mothers California Gold clay bar kit. Would reccommend it to anyone thinking of giving it a go!!!

Claying is used by detailers to remove anything rough and potentially damaging to the paint. Basically picks up anything that wouldn't be removed by normal washing alone, so if you don't want to be constantly lightly scratching your paint work by washing your car, rinse it, clay it, then wash it and the paint will feel like new.

Hope I helped.

it dosnt remove scratches. it pretty much removes dirt that is stuck to the paint. when you wash you car your pretty much spreading the dirt around. you car may look clean but the paint is still dirty. and even though when you polish/wax your car without claying it first all you doing is just polishing the dirt on the paint.

so its best to wash then clay then wash again then use paint cleaner then go from there.

easy and effective way to clay is while washing your car. you dont need to use expensive lubricant as all it does it lubricat the area where the clay will be going over. what you can do is wash your car with normal washing stuff. rinse down. fill a bucked up with water and car soap or what ever you use and a sponge. with the sponge go over the area you want to clay (do small areas at a time) so you get soapy water on that area then go over it with clay in a circular motion then wipe of with the soapy sponge again. do the same all around. then once all that is done rinse off

also work on the top half first then do the bottom half last as the paint tends to be the worse down low. also keep turning the clay inside out so you have a new surface to clay with for each panal so you dont rub what ever you pick up from other panels onto the next panel.

hope that helped and made sense.

i recommend claying aswell. when i bought my car the paint work was just shite. so much gunk on it. gave it a clay job, polish etc and came up very good. must admit its a pain in the arse to do though. took me forever. i heard off someone that if you run your hand over the panel and it doesnt feel like glass then its time for a clay job.

I've clayed the stock 19's on my v36 as they had some stains on them when I bought it. Stains were impossible to remove but they definitely look better than they did before

Would claying affect different finishes like shadow/chrome?

if its a stain thats stained your paint not sure it will. but inperfactions left by build up of dirt will be removed by clay bar. you might need a cut and polish (a light cut and polish) to remove the stain

one thing no one mentioned is, when claying a car be sure to be folding the clay, if you are using the one side constantly you WILL end up scratching the car, deivide the clay n make a small amount for each panel, depending on the quality of the clay will depend on how many times you can use it. i only use Zymol detailing products as it is the best hands down, nothing comes close.

  • 2 weeks later...
it dosnt remove scratches. it pretty much removes dirt that is stuck to the paint. when you wash you car your pretty much spreading the dirt around. you car may look clean but the paint is still dirty. and even though when you polish/wax your car without claying it first all you doing is just polishing the dirt on the paint.

so its best to wash then clay then wash again then use paint cleaner then go from there.

easy and effective way to clay is while washing your car. you dont need to use expensive lubricant as all it does it lubricat the area where the clay will be going over. what you can do is wash your car with normal washing stuff. rinse down. fill a bucked up with water and car soap or what ever you use and a sponge. with the sponge go over the area you want to clay (do small areas at a time) so you get soapy water on that area then go over it with clay in a circular motion then wipe of with the soapy sponge again. do the same all around. then once all that is done rinse off

also work on the top half first then do the bottom half last as the paint tends to be the worse down low. also keep turning the clay inside out so you have a new surface to clay with for each panal so you dont rub what ever you pick up from other panels onto the next panel.

hope that helped and made sense.

Helpful Man! :(

  • 2 weeks later...

One thing to remember, if you ever drop a clay bar on the ground, throw it away and buy a new one. Don't use one that has been dropped in dirt/dust. Also keep it stored in an air tight container/bag if you can, lasts a hell of a lot longer.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily. Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150. I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted. I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do. If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.
    • As above, definitely bash it or get it replaced with a high flow unit.
    • get some flares on them, or wider guards haha
    • Another question sorry, what stainless do u use in the turbo external WG plumb back piping? Is it 321, 316 or 304?
    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
×
×
  • Create New...