Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The bottom ends are $19000NZD...thats just the bottom end!!!

i dont even think thats for the ones with the billet mains paul!

but it does include a tomei pump, custom sump and other stuff

I am getting a gear box built so i will take it to the track once thats sorted out prob a month or so.

I brought the 4wd billit main cap block fron rips but the crank rods pistons and pump were mine.

The fuel system is a nismo lift pump a 5 lt custon surge tank with 3 x 044 pumps -10 fuel lines and sard 1000cc inj.

Brakes what are they? STANDARD a chute will pull it up ha ha ha na im going to put some alcons on it when i have the money.

Edited by superjet760
I am getting a gear box built so i will take it to the track once thats sorted out prob a month or so.

I brought the 4wd billit main cap block fron rips but the crank rods pistons and pump were mine.

The fuel system is a nismo lift pump a 5 lt custon surge tank with 3 x 044 pumps -10 fuel lines and sard 1000cc inj.

Brakes what are they? STANDARD a chute will pull it up ha ha ha na im going to put some alcons on it when i have the money.

Excellent results there ;)

Can I just clarify though, did RIPS actually do the bottom end assembly, or just supply the block?

The bottom ends are $19000NZD...thats just the bottom end!!!

I take it from that your surprised? Remember our $ is very weak atm and they are usually under nzd17k. Whats a bare OSG shortblock worth these days? Then add all the stuff I list below and you'll be surprised.

If you actually start to add up the work and parts that is in one of my COMPLETE bottom ends you'll soon see it is actually very good value for money for a well proven product.

Its not just a short block, it has a block brace/adapter, custom high capacity sump, 1500hp front damper, tomei oil pump (over 3k on its own these days) billet rods, forged pistons, hours and hours of prep and machining, water pump, cam belt, all new idler, tentioner, lower cam drive gear, washers and keys, oil system mods, restrictors etc etc, all balanced to perfection and at least 3 days spent on prep, blueprinting and assembly.

I've had a few guys say they can do a better job for a lower price and when I ask them to show me or prove it or show me time slips, not 1 has ever got back to me.........very strange :-)

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ

What kind of maintenance would have to be done to keep an rb30 spinning at 9000rpm???? i would have thought that the harmonics and piston speed would decrease engine life by ALOT!!!

BTW: Love the twin 3037s looks awesome

I take it from that your surprised? Remember our $ is very weak atm and they are usually under nzd17k. Whats a bare OSG shortblock worth these days? Then add all the stuff I list below and you'll be surprised.

If you actually start to add up the work and parts that is in one of my COMPLETE bottom ends you'll soon see it is actually very good value for money for a well proven product.

Its not just a short block, it has a block brace/adapter, custom high capacity sump, 1500hp front damper, tomei oil pump (over 3k on its own these days) billet rods, forged pistons, hours and hours of prep and machining, water pump, cam belt, all new idler, tentioner, lower cam drive gear, washers and keys, oil system mods, restrictors etc etc, all balanced to perfection and at least 3 days spent on prep, blueprinting and assembly.

I've had a few guys say they can do a better job for a lower price and when I ask them to show me or prove it or show me time slips, not 1 has ever got back to me.........very strange :-)

Rob

we did my whole engine for $19000AUD...all JUN stuff...it ran 9's on its first outing...the same engine freshened up will go close to 8's on its next outing with new turbo set-up and proper gearbox. This is in a 1460kg GTR on street rubber.

Im not one of these internet mechanics who say things without the experience to back it up.

Not at all having a go at you...If you can get people to part with $19000NZD for a bottom end all the best of luck to you Rob. Well Done.

we did my whole engine for $19000AUD...all JUN stuff...it ran 9's on its first outing...the same engine freshened up will go close to 8's on its next outing with new turbo set-up and proper gearbox. This is in a 1460kg GTR on street rubber.

Im not one of these internet mechanics who say things without the experience to back it up.

Not at all having a go at you...If you can get people to part with $19000NZD for a bottom end all the best of luck to you Rob. Well Done.

He did say just under $17k so thats like $13k AUD which leaves you $5k for the head and I take it you built your own motor too - this is the price he sells the short motors for retail as a business

Haven't seen anyone complaining about any of Robs products - his forklift motors are amongst the quickest around :)

Its not just a short block, it has a block brace/adapter, custom high capacity sump, 1500hp front damper, tomei oil pump (over 3k on its own these days) billet rods, forged pistons, hours and hours of prep and machining, water pump, cam belt, all new idler, tentioner, lower cam drive gear, washers and keys, oil system mods, restrictors etc etc, all balanced to perfection and at least 3 days spent on prep, blueprinting and assembly.

just roughly adding that up in my head eats up $13k pretty quick - just because you can do it cheaper doesn't mean this package is not value for money

Edited by dano4127
He did say just under $17k so thats like $13k AUD which leaves you $5k for the head and I take it you built your own motor too - this is the price he sells the short motors for retail as a business

Haven't seen anyone complaining about any of Robs products - his forklift motors are amongst the quickest around :)

just roughly adding that up in my head eats up $13k pretty quick - just because you can do it cheaper doesn't mean this package is not value for money

I think what R.I.P.S do is great value.

I got a rb26 rebuild quote from a Certain Really well known Dyno tuning shop in sydney and almost fell off my chair,

$15k AUD, and that gets you no more power than one has to start with.

Awesome results. Thinking back to the late 90s a lot the mega quick GTRs were running twin 3037 and 3040s and running 9s on goat tracks that are Japanese drag strips.

With a good box and fuel this thing would have you empyting your bowels in a heart beat ;)

...and lets not turn this into another vs thread. :)

Yea awesome results, i was dead against RB30's but after seeing those promo vids and R.I.P.S website i am sold :) when it comes time for a rebuilt... a R.I.P.S RB30 is definately going to be part of it :/

I think what R.I.P.S do is great value.

I got a rb26 rebuild quote from a Certain Really well known Dyno tuning shop in sydney and almost fell off my chair,

$15k AUD, and that gets you no more power than one has to start with.

I see what you did there lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which manifold mate? Meanwhile......Mark is wondering how bonnet vents would look on the NC 🤣
    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
×
×
  • Create New...