Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Mainly starting this up because after reading through a lot of stuff I'm no closer to knowing the truth.

I've called two different coilover makers now and they've both said according to their records/knowledge the RS4-S is no different to any other Stagea, yet I've head a lot of people say the rear is a totally unique setup.

So what is the deal??

dont even get me started about parts for an rs4s. Car has been in the workshop for the last week and a half while they try and source castor rods/bushes and a tie rod end

NOTE - IF YOU NEED A TIE ROD END JUST BUY GENUINE, THERE IS NO OTHER SUBSTITUTE (I know this because i have found out the hard way, bought 2 different tie rod ends and they weren't right)

also i was lead to believe that we have an r33 gtr gearbox, thus i thought that an extension housing seal would be the same as an r33gtr gearbox. NOT TRUE, once again tried every bearing shop, nothing, have to wait for genuine now :D

Isn't the R33 GTR gearbox only on the 260RS?? My guess the RS4S would use something like the R33 GTS4 gearbox...but then again I'm only assuming here

Edited by BigDirtyJase

I can confirm the following on a Type S Stagea.

It definitely has a GTR Rear end e.g. LSD and suspension mounting (Forks) and also the same Hicas. I would be interested in finding out about the gearbox though because I always thought they had a GTR one standard. Is there any way of finding this out by looking at the gearbox?

I can confirm the following on a Type S Stagea.

It definitely has a GTR Rear end e.g. LSD and suspension mounting (Forks) and also the same Hicas. I would be interested in finding out about the gearbox though because I always thought they had a GTR one standard. Is there any way of finding this out by looking at the gearbox?

I'm with the above on this, because AFAIK, the RS-Four S and 260RS both use a complete R33 GT-R rear cradle. I would have assumed that the RS-Four S would use the GT-R box too, though, unless the R33 GTS4 box is the same anyway...

Probably the best way is to get some VINs and do a cross-check on the FAST system.

Pretty sure there are some differences in the rear cradle between R33 GTR and 260RS: we used a GTR rear cradle in my car, and the track is definitely wider than a 260RS. Also, had to customise the axles to fit the Stagea. Not sure to what extent they are different, but that's what I was told about my car....

*edit* That said, the SK suspension package fit straight in, so maybe it's just the axles?

Hmmm this is interesting stuff. I use Greddy Type S R33 GTR coilovers in my Stagea they fit perfectly (Other than modifying rear strut tops and changing the rate of the rear spring, fat arse wagon vs light coupe) I would have thought if there was significant difference in the rear cradle maybe I would have noticed it here???? What is the difference in the axles is it to do with length / diameter ??

I am told that it was length: we used a GTR axle on one side, (which I think was off the opposite side on a GTR), and a modified Z32 axle on the other. This is what I remember being told, so it may not be entirely accurate... However, park my car next to any other Stagea with R34 rims, and the difference is quite visible.

So my best bet would be to get some coilovers for a R33 GTR and get them modified (rear spring rate)??

That would be my recommendation (I believe even the Sydney Kid kits used R33GTST rear shocks with spring rates specific to the Stagea.)

There are quite a few posts in the suspension area regarding the coilovers and i have posted my setup there but basicly in summary after quite a bit of research I came up with the following formula.

Depending on the spring rate of the coilovers you select I would suggest getting the same rate or slightly lower in the rear. When I was researching suspension for my car the Nismo Stagea kits for the RS260 were around Front 6.0 Rear 6.4 and most other kits I found were between 6 - 10 kg often with the back been a slightly lower rate than the front.

My rule of thumb was to go somewhere around the middle, I currently run 8kg front and 6.8kg rear springs. I really like the ride and it is spot on for my needs, I do live in melbourne and do alot of freeway driving though. If you lived in a rural area and travelled on rough or gravel roads you may find that softer springs are a bit more comfortable.

Hope that helps

i still run the factory springs with bilsteins, i'm pretty sure it is R32GTR fronts and the rear is probably R32/R33 GTR but heasmans should be able to advise on the correct rear shock. order them with extra circlip grooves you can adjust the height accordingly.

the factory spring rates with the already larger factory swaybars (compared to auto versions) is pretty reasonable but going to larger front and same sized (but solid) rear bar is a pretty street combo.

  • 3 weeks later...
ISC N1 coilovers are made specifically for RS4 and RS4-S (no modification to rear top mount needed).

Ryan-0413804117

I like the price (cheaper than entry-level TEIN & Nismo S-Tune), and based on your website, I take it that you could you offer the Stagea parts with springs rated at say, 6/5.5?

(I'm no expert on the best rate for a street Stagea, but I've read posts by others who suggest that the 4-4.5 range spring rate isn't really worth upgrading to, so I'm open to suggestions!)

Edited by BensDR30

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...