Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Pulls When Braking?

joeleo87
 Share

Recommended Posts

star32 Collaborator

star32

Posted
Posted
hey all,

ive had this problem ever since i got my car,

when braking the steering wheel pulls in the 1 direction, harder i brake harder it pulls?

any1 had this problem or know to to fix it?

cheers

Inspect your brakes condition. The brakes on the side your steering wheel is pulling towards are working much beter than the ones on the opposite end.

I had that problem on my previouse car.

Hope this helps a little.

:(

rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
hey all,

ive had this problem ever since i got my car,

when braking the steering wheel pulls in the 1 direction, harder i brake harder it pulls?

any1 had this problem or know to to fix it?

cheers

if the road has any camber it will pull under hard braking, at least, mine does.. I guess you tried on both sides of a cambered road?

J34 Proficient

J34

Posted
Posted

Try taking the wheels off and inspect all the pads and disks. Maybe you could try swapping the pads with the other side and see how that goes.

Otherwise maybe get the brake lines bled or new pads?

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
Seized brake calliper (opposite side to which it pulls).

+1 This is the most likely option. You might be able to get the piston moving, but you really should rebuild the caliper. Its pretty easy to do.Try racebrakes for a seal kit.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

rebuild (for me) was;

1. get pistons out (i did this using the brake pedal and gradually putting thinner and thinner shims in where the pads were, as a way of getting all pistons out evenly most of the way) then removed calipers pulled them out the last bit with pliers

2. Remove old seals from pistons

3. Clean up any scoring on the piston with 1200 wet n dry, thoroughly clean everything

4. Put new seals on, wetted with brake fluid

5. Re-install pistons with pistons and inside of caliper wetted with brake fluid

6. Install dust seals

7. Install caliper + bleed

If you're handy its a piece of piss

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted

Again as other have said it's most likely a seized caliper, but I thought I'd share my experience as food for thought...

I had a similar problem in my old r34 when my front camber or toe bushes were shot

but also had a slight wheels shudder everytime the car hit 110 on the highway.

I had the wheels re-aligned twice before I realised I needed some new bushes, the first time the alignment got rid of the problem, but came back over time so I had my suspension checked out

some new bushes, castor arms and a wheel balance/alignment and the problem was solved.

  • 1 month later...
joeleo87 Experienced

joeleo87

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Recent update :)

i recently replaced the rear brake pads and bled the system made a slight difference but it still pulls :blush:

ill bust off the front brakes and have a good hard look this weekend :banana: if all i need is a seal kit to fix the calipers then i can get them for like $40 each caliper :banana:

ill have to inspect the front bushes, before i bought the car it had all new bushes installed so they shouldnt be the problem :banana: i will how ever have a good look at the fron bushes and castor arms ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Duncan
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...