Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

In search of a new fuel pump.

Looking at a Bosch 040 fuel pump? Will that be ok?

I hear lots of people going the Bosch 044 fuel pump?

Whats the difference and which one should i go?

I got an Rb20det with minimal mods, think the fuel pump is in it's last legs.

All advice is apprectiated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Any of the Bosch in-tank pumps will be fine if you have minimal mods. The 044 is an external mount, so not really the best option. The 040 would be my choice of the Bosch's, or the Walbro 255LPH pump

http://boschfuelpumps.com/

Cheers for the advice.

You confirmed my initial thoughts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4442402
Share on other sites

Personally, I would go the 044 pump over the 040 (and GTR, why put a 2nd hand fuel pump in?).

I'm running an 044 internally and my mate is running an 044 internally (and his car is making 530awhp from one internally mounted 044).

The 040 is more of a direct swap but it has an integral pickup/filter (meaning that it draws from the bottom face of the pump through a screen).

The 044 requires a little modification of the bracket to hold it on and because it has a fitting on the end you can use a stock-like sock-filter setup.

Whichever way you go, you should be rewiring the pump for a constant 12v as opposed to variable voltage.

I cbf putting my fuel pump in (it's like the only thing I paid someone to do to my car other than tuning and alignments), 044 pump cost me $215 new off ebay and I paid Hyperdrive ~$220 to install the 044, they supplied all the fittings & filter and rewired for 12v and a better earth.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4443192
Share on other sites

Why put a 2nd hand pump in? .. Because it's more than capable.

There's no need to put a 500hp fuel pump in a car with less than half that... You could spend $200 + on a pump, but a $50 one will be just as good... and it's an easy install.

There's plenty of GTR's out there who have replaced their pumps because they are chasing big power numbers, and if you've got a lightly modded rb20, then the GTR's old pump is a great mod.

But hey, if money isn't an issue for you then go all out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4443464
Share on other sites

It may be more than capable but I wouldn't trust a 2nd hand fuel pump. If that ~20yo pump decides it wants to die at the wrong time, goodbye engine.

For a bit over $200 and some time/patience or another $200 for a pro install, put a decent pump in there.

If you can't afford a $200 fuel pump.. you shouldn't be modifying cars :)

But hey, at the end of the day, it's not my engine.. so go for it ;)

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4444333
Share on other sites

Work out whats cheaper .. new pump or new engine

if you only have minimal mods then you could pick up a 2nd hand GTR pump pretty cheap and it'd be more then enough. Plenty of 32s are using them (check out the rb20 power figure registry in the forced induction section)
my mate is running an 044 internally (and his car is making 530awhp from one internally mounted 044).

We have same set up with 31 making 418rwhp , better fuel system will go in before we hit 500hp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4444574
Share on other sites

We have same set up with 31 making 418rwhp , better fuel system will go in before we hit 500hp

Better how? use the intank 044 as a lift pump into a surge tank then twin 044's?

I was a bit sceptical when matey said he was going to run a single intank 044 with his power level but it's coping quite well!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258378-fuel-pump/#findComment-4444641
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...