Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Scott from insight motorsports is very switched on. Check out his website. He is very helpful. May have some suggestions

ive herd scott is good i might talk to him later in the week thanks for the help

Valve float - does the power just nose over? How does the engine sound at this point. Have you got a dyno graph?

it basiccally just goes flat doesnt te engine still sounds fine im just confused that a t04z is making less power then twin t517z it seems the more power i try to make the less it is making

32deg ignition timing at 5000rpm, are you sure?

Its probably got no boost at 5000rpm hence the ignition numbers. What does the boost do - its sometimes easier to hear valve float external to the dyno room. Also when valve float occurs your boost can go all over the place. Does more boost make more power through the mid range but then just flattens off upto where it should be making more power?

Also whats your timing control like at high rpm? The only three ECU's I would ever use when using a std CAS is a PFC, std ECU or Motec every other ECU I've seen issues with signal filtering - haven't seen the new Vipec.

Its probably got no boost at 5000rpm hence the ignition numbers. What does the boost do - its sometimes easier to hear valve float external to the dyno room. Also when valve float occurs your boost can go all over the place. Does more boost make more power through the mid range but then just flattens off upto where it should be making more power?

only making 5 psi at 5000 boost climb sharp then sits flat till 9000 more 7 pound made 7 kws difference and even the base number of 353 at 15 was to low according to my tuner

Also whats your timing control like at high rpm? The only three ECU's I would ever use when using a std CAS is a PFC, std ECU or Motec every other ECU I've seen issues with signal filtering - haven't seen the new Vipec.

pretty good i think mark hasnt complained about filtering only about having to use a haltech in general

I know that...

Well from where the "de-cat" pipe is, same spot, matters not... So i take it as a NO you have not tried the 10mins quick test to totally discount exhaust

i miss understood you ill give it a go tomorow it got to be worth a try thanks

Does it hold boost? when you wind on past 15 psi do you still get a flat line or is it all over the place? Whats your spring rate in your WG?

its got a 17psi spring in it and it sits dead flat no spiking or flat spots at all

well i thought mine was bad....

i have 25pound in a loaded gear by 4300rpm.

mine is IDENTICAL to yours except you have valve springs. my t04z is .84 split (ta45 footprint) 3.5" straight exhaust no cat.

i have an ebay manifold. with 1.1/4" runners.

mine on 1.6 bar makes 376awkw (505hp) on 1.4bar it made 355kw on 1.8 it made 377kw

i think mine is valve float...

how'd you go did you sort it out?

i might of fixed it had a valve clearance issue witch is now resolved but wont no till it gets back on the rollers it seams to make more power now and is coming on earlier so fingers crossed

well i thought mine was bad....

i have 25pound in a loaded gear by 4300rpm.

mine is IDENTICAL to yours except you have valve springs. my t04z is .84 split (ta45 footprint) 3.5" straight exhaust no cat.

i have an ebay manifold. with 1.1/4" runners.

mine on 1.6 bar makes 376awkw (505hp) on 1.4bar it made 355kw on 1.8 it made 377kw

i think mine is valve float...

ive been looking at yours we both seam to be in the same boat if you end up fixing it let us no im concidering trying standard cams to see if makes better or worse

I thought i would join in and give you my experience as well.

I however have a supra 2jzgte with a gt42.

Long story short, i have very low power numbers for the size of turbo and boost im running, ive tried a lot of things, people were saying also valve float, small cams etc.. after replacing them, i am still having the same issue's.

My boost comes on hard at 5500rpm@26psi and thats where it makes its max HP, then just flat lines all the way to redline.

All the info is in the links here, i have posted my issue's on a fair few forums, so if you can be bothered, have a read what ive done, im pretty sure we may have a similar issue, also running a haltech e11 and having a hard time finding someone to tune it...

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67205139

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37070

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529982

Not sure if you'll be able to go on all of them, may need to sign up? and some are a very long read, but plenty of suggestions, just everything ive tried so far hasnt worked, very frustrating!

I thought i would join in and give you my experience as well.

I however have a supra 2jzgte with a gt42.

Long story short, i have very low power numbers for the size of turbo and boost im running, ive tried a lot of things, people were saying also valve float, small cams etc.. after replacing them, i am still having the same issue's.

My boost comes on hard at 5500rpm@26psi and thats where it makes its max HP, then just flat lines all the way to redline.

All the info is in the links here, i have posted my issue's on a fair few forums, so if you can be bothered, have a read what ive done, im pretty sure we may have a similar issue, also running a haltech e11 and having a hard time finding someone to tune it...

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67205139

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37070

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529982

Not sure if you'll be able to go on all of them, may need to sign up? and some are a very long read, but plenty of suggestions, just everything ive tried so far hasnt worked, very frustrating!

It really sounds like you need a new tuner, just one idea on your car is with the cat converter if it has no core in there it can cause a vortex and cause back pressure and power loss. I don't think this is your problem though I think that your problem is more likely to be a tuning or sensor problem I dont know much about 2j's except the make a lot of power but could it be a problem with your vvti not advancing the cams as it's meant to? let me know what you think

MAZMAN i relied to your post on supra forums... small world!! it would drive me insane!

timsr33 i had standard cams.. well bog stock motor 1.4 bar same everthing made 315awkw. lag was almost identical,put the cams in a mild head and went to 376awkw on 1.6 bar.

ive been told its the small cams and weak valve springs... but there are the odd freak ones on here making 400+ kw on same boost. either im missing something or they arnt telling us something..

but you have valve springs. wich make me worry about mine. but yours has crazy lag! what was the "clearance issues" you discoverd?

ps.. my girly has a rb25 and a gt35 with .68 ar rear. she made 345rwkw on 1.5 bar. little 252 poncams and type a springs on a 6 boost. now when i built the motor it made 260kw on 1.2 bar i opened up the small radius on exhaust ports only! went straight to 301kw..

so i think our cyl heads are the place to look at.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
×
×
  • Create New...