Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I tried to post this in the tutorial/DIY section, but its not coming up, so I guess a mod has to move it there...

--------------

Ok, I thought I'd write up a tutorial on how I did this install, because although on alot of cars these conversion kits are plug 'n play, on my car they were anything but...

The kit I used was one of NYTSKY's (Dave) Helligkeit group buy conversion kits, but I'd assume you will have the same problems with all of them if you have the same lights as mine. My car has the projector type lights which take a h1 globe. However, they have a funky(?) design in which the globe actually sits in the front of a globe holder and this holder gets pushed into the back of the headlight assembly. The following pics show the design...

IMG_6212.jpg

IMG_6217.jpg

As you can see, there is no way that the HID kit globes are going to work in these lights without some mods - the HID globes have their wires running straight into the back of them and will not plug into the standard globe holder.

So to make it work in your lights....

*Before you begin, have both your lights out of the back of the headlight, but only do one at a time - this will allow you to make comparisons in terms of positioning etc*

Step 1: Pull out the globe holder and dissasemble. This involves removing the rubber grommet then carefully bending out the metal tabs

IMG_6213.jpg

Step 2: This was a big leap of faith, because from this point there was no turning back - if it didnt work i'd have to source new holders. All was good in the end though. Start off buy using a hobby/stanley knife to scrape all the silicone goo crap off the back of the plastic holder with the metal tabs on it. This is a messy job, but removing as much as you can will make it much easier to do the next step, which is to drill out the holder. The aim here is to make as large a hole as possible, and also to remove the metal tabs which are moulded into the plastic. I used a bench drill with the largest drill I had (not sure what size, but still left reasonably thick walls on the plastic holder) to carefully drill from the metal tab end of the holder through to the front. If you do this you will notice the metal tabs fold over on the front of the holder making it difficult to drill right through. Once I hit the metal tabs i carefully bent them out of the way, then snapped/cut them off, and finished drilling through.

IMG_6214.jpg

IMG_6215.jpg

Step 3: If you don't have a dremel/multitool this next step will be quite difficult. I used a dremel and cutting/grinding attachments to gradually increase the size of the hole and cut around the plastic that was holding the metal tabs in. I was then able to pry/snap them out.

IMG_6220.jpg

You will notice in the picture there are 3 plastic pins that locate the globe in the right place. In the first light I did I removed these, however I later realised they are important in locating the globe in the right location in the holder, so do your best to avoid damaging these... If you do, its not vital, as you will see further down.

Step 4: Increase the hole size, and removed the electric contacts and file out the holder so that your HID globe base will fit into the hole.

IMG_6224.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 5: It is at this point that you will need to test to make sure your HID globes will fit into the hole. However, on my kit, the globes were wired to a nice rubber grommet and new connections that fit into the headlight plug - neither of which would fit through the hole. This meant I had to cut the wires running to the back of the HID globes and put in some spade connectors.

IMG_6219.jpg

P1040384.jpg

Step 6:

By now, you're HID globes should slot nicely into your modified globe holder, and are ready to be fitted back into the holder and then the headlights... As I mentioned, keeping those 3 little plastic pins means that straight away the globe will fit in place nicely as seen in the first picture, hoewever if you damaged them in the drilling stage you can do what I did for the first light I did (when i didn't realise they were fairly important). I ended up using 3 o-rings around the base to make sure the globe sat in the appropriate location. The first pic below shows the O-ring approach, the second shows the neater and easier plastic pin approach...

IMG_6218.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 7:

Now you can connect the spade connectors back up, wrap them securely in electrical tape as well to make sure they are well insulated, and reassemble the holder. Make sure you orient the metal ring and the metal clip the right way, then bend the tabs back down to hold it all in place. Don't forget to put the rubber grommet on too, otherwise you will have to try and stretch it over the globe (which from experience is not easy).

IMG_6230.jpg

Step 8: Now you can put it all in the way you would if it was plug n play - connect the HID spade connectors into your existing light plugs, mount your ballasts somewhere secure ( I used some existing holes down behind the front bumper, bolted em up and used some stick on velcro between the ballast and the car frame so they were secure and didn't rattle).

Step 9: Wait until it gets dark and go test em out! Mine came up sweet, with a nice cutoff, minimal hotspots and no adjustment needed. I wouldn't say they are as good as OEM HID headlights, but they are alot better than the standard lights I used to have...

P1040385.jpg

P1040386.jpg

Thanks to Dahtone Racing for the idea in this thread...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t194275.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258494-hid-install-for-r32s/
Share on other sites

I did this last weekend also. I found that i had to shorten the 3 little pins on the globe holder as the base of the HID globe is thicker and i couldn't get the globe holder to clip in properly untill i cut them down.

Good work in posting this up btw :)

Ah yep, I had the same problem, forgot to mention that. I ended up just filing a tiny bit off the top of those pins to get it to clip in - As I mentioned in the write-up, that distance is critical to getting them to click in and stay in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...