Jump to content
SAU Community

Window Required : Lhs Side Rear Wagon Section In Dark Tint

ozktm
 Share

Recommended Posts

RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted

oh shit, good luck mate, your may need to search the forums for wrecking stagea's, i also think its the glass, not tint that is really dark ...

so i've been told

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hello,

Damn whipper snipper thru a rock and smashed the window completely. Hoping someone in sydney area might have one available.

Regards,

Adrian

Have you located one or priced a new one? If you are getting desperate let me know what price you have been quoted and i will see if i can ship mine chaeper from Auckland.
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Have you located one or priced a new one? If you are getting desperate let me know what price you have been quoted and i will see if i can ship mine chaeper from Auckland.
Actually forget that idea. i don't think you'll get one second hand. I was trying to remove the RH one (for practice ) and after 15min of carefull work it shattered into thousands of pieces. As you will find out when you try to remove the remains of yours it is held in with a mixture of adhesives and clips and would be impossible to remove in one piece - maybe a professional could, but i doubt it - so looks like a new one from nissan!
mike40sydney Experienced

mike40sydney

Posted
Posted
Actually forget that idea. i don't think you'll get one second hand. I was trying to remove the RH one (for practice ) and after 15min of carefull work it shattered into thousands of pieces. As you will find out when you try to remove the remains of yours it is held in with a mixture of adhesives and clips and would be impossible to remove in one piece - maybe a professional could, but i doubt it - so looks like a new one from nissan!

its more than likley heat sealed if so you need to find the 2 copper wires that will be there and connect them to a 12 volt car battery.it will heat up and then you can just push the glass out by hand .thats how a lot of windscreens are done

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted

I have seen them taken in and out for a respray on Alex's car a fair while back, so it can be done without destruction.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...