R32 Gts-t Ghosts

[JUN`R32]

Guys

Im certain i have a ghost in my line...

and it aint one of them friendly ones !!!!

Ghost does the following..

Engine heats up a fair bit, but temp gauge on dash and defi temp gauage have temp as normal and not overheating.

On idle car will drop revs, then raise revs, then eventualy after several minutes it will shut off.

Driving between 0 - 80kms car would misfire and want to turn off, when slowing down to traffic lights it would turn off, going around corners slowly it wants to turn off,

when on the free way doing 100+ car runs fine, no misfire issues, no stalling, no cutting out (leads me to believe may be intake/air issue)

When bonnet is left open idle runs fine and does not turn off as quickly as when its closed.

Have done the following

Replaced Oil and Oil filter

Replaced coolant

Replaced fuel pump (bosch upgraded pump)

Replaced AFM (with a used AFM from SSS parts, unable to use a Z32 AFM due to stock ECU)

Replaced air filter

Replaced o2 sensor

Replaced coils (with used std R32 coils which were in perfect working order for previous owner)

ECU was tested and turned out fine no problems (done by Bel garage)

compression test done and come up fine (done by Bel garage)

Bel garage took the car for a spin, tested it out and advised the car runs fine, everything seems ok. Then advised car turns off on idle aswell and below solution was given.

Bel garage advised coils are overheating due to heat being trapped in the engine bay, causing the car to shut down.

They also advised to raise the bonnet so hot air can escape, now doing this will not get down to the root cause only have my bonnet semi open and heat issue will remain.

If anyone has any ideas/suggestions/spells/whictchcraft/holy grails/

it would be greately appreciated

[blind_elk]

The igniter is prone to "I don't like the heat, I'm taking a siesta" when it gets a bit older. Try swapping it for a known ok unit.

And I don't understand this "lift the back of the bonnet" to overcome overheating. It must be a high pressure region at the base of the windscreen (that was the theory of the 'reverse scoops' on A9X/L34 and Falcon GT Group C cars). So while driving along, you would be forcing air back into the engine bay. That means a high pressure region inside the engine bay, which means you can't get air to pass through the radiator. Which means the coolant isn't cooled (as much).

[JUN`R32]

Yehh i havn't lifted the back of the bonnet as it just does not seem like a proper fix in my eyes and you made a good point about the pressure..

Ill have to get my hands on a igniter module and test,

Apart from that im baffled as to what else it could be....

[clip14]

you can get a coilpack relocation kit. gets the coilpacks out of the hotzone

you can convert to mitsi coils, or to a distributor wasted spark setup.

there is a seller here in nz who does mitsi coils to replace factory r32 gtst coils. price is around $225 au. plugs straight into your ignitor.

[clip14]

the stalling issues sound a bit like an intake leak though. have you done a leak test on your intake piping?

[JUN`R32]

Bel garage checked the car and found a vacuum leak, which they replaced.

They checked the afm and intake all was fine, no leaks no where.

Im going to try another igniter and see if that fixes the issue along with turning the alarm off.

[Ruffels]

They also advised to raise the bonnet so hot air can escape,

Got Bandaid Fix?

[JUN`R32]

Exact thoughts i had loll

Car has been getting worse after replacing coil packs, now its misfiring even when travelling at over 80km, not as much as when travelling under 80kms.

also turning off at every idle...

also a puff of black smoke from exhaust when misfiring and then kicks in, guessing its just excess fuel being burnt off..

[clip14]

have you taken the coilpack covers off?

this plus the bonnet lift might help

otherwise coilpack relocation kits arent too expensive

[JUN`R32]

lifting the bonnet will be a bandaid fix as previous posted...

coil pack cover is off, car stalls now even with bonnet open on idle...

had the bonnet lifted at the front, was sitting on 2nd latch, on idle still turned off.

Is there a chance the thermo could be faulty ????

When engine gets to the certain temp, maybe thermo is not opening allowing collant to enter the radiator.

As the engine does get really hot, although no smoke, both temp gauges show normal temp

[MR R33 GTS-T]

have you got a standard BOV or after market? if you have after market then this maybe ur problem. I had same issue as you and i put the standard one on and all fixed now

[JUN`R32]

lmao - found the problem

i was laughing my a$$ off along with the guys at bel garage after this lol

the damn alt belt was expanding when engine heats up and that was causing it to not turn the pulley, thus not generating any voltage to the battery, when it does give some voltage its under 10v and then once car turns off and then on again, it only gives 5v...

also a circuit in the dash was causing issues with the voltage reading also

loll

Just some info for other people who might be experiencing the same issues.

Thanks heaps guys

[JUN`R32]

well things have been fixed now, only to find out the car is driving fine, idling fine but once car gets hot (not overheating) it stalls.

Igniter has been checked and is fine, no dramas.

ECU has been checked, alternator reco'd, battery charging correctly now, alternator providing charge but the car still stalls after engined heats up so car is still with bel garage who a certain it is a electrical fault as compression test come up fine with no issues.

Advised bel to have the CAS checked as this might be causing the issue based on a search or 2 on SAU.

If anyone has ANY info they have on this issue, or have had a similar problem with stalling issue which does not relate to previously mentioned,

Please advise

im dying here without the car its been 1 1/2 weeks already at bel and another 4 weeks prior being sent in to bel garage.