Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where are the BOVs located on an RS260 (R33 GTR)? and are there any bolt on upgrades for these?

cheers

I would assume they will be in the exact position any GTR would have them. Behind the front bumper ont he driver's side (RH side). I have never gone looking for them in a 260RS though so check there first.

Not sure on the upgrade options either but take some pics once you find them and I can tell you i they are GTR or not

Stock GTR BOVs = good for over 600rwkw & 30psi+

Good enough for everyone else :D

They leak @ idle as they are designed, it helps alleviate issues with comp surge and so on... there is a point to what some see as Nissan madness, so dont touch it

ARC and HKS make bolt-on replacements that can vent to atmo, so they go CCCHOOOOOOOO when you back off...its sick and you love it....although like Ash said this will cause your car to run rich once you back off and clutch in, if youve given it a gobfull it will probably stall.

AtomicBomberMan was selling some ARCs a while ago in the FS section.

GTR bov's are some of the best ever made...replacing these with anything would be a downgrade in my opinion.

what if you've just discovered that your gtr doesnt even have any bov's?

should i put standard ones on?

put the 2 aftermarket ones i have on?

leave it as is.?

what are the pros and cons of each of these?

i run a power fc..

wat about all the talk about the pressure being put on the turbo propellers?

hey as far as i understand bovs were put on cars by manufacturers to try and silence the fluttering noise caused by the boosted air across the compressor blades when the throttle is closed. I also believe that they did help prolong the life of the turbo as the air rushing back over the compressor can slow it down. anyone plz feel free to correct me

A bypass valve is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure in the intake system when the throttle is lifted or closed. This air pressure is recirculated back into the non pressurized end of the intake (before the turbo) but after the mass airflow sensor.

A blowoff valve does basically the same thing, but releases the air to the atmosphere. This creates a very distinctive sound. For some owners this is the only reason to get a blowoff valve.

The unique sound caused by a blowoff valve sometimes comes at a price. On a car the blowoff valve is mounted after the mass airflow sensor, so venting to atmosphere confuses the ECU. The ECU is told it has a specific amount of air in the intake system, and injects fuel accordingly. The amount of air released by the blowoff valve is not taken into consideration and the engine runs rich for a period of time. Engines with a manifold absolute pressure regulated ECU are not typically affected.

Typically this isn't a major issue, but sometimes it can lead to hesitation or stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed. This situation worsens with higher boost pressures. Eventually this can foul spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter. When running rich, not all the fuel is properly burned in the cylinder which can allow unburned fuel to combust upon contact with and melt the converter or to cause incompletely combusted fuel to leave heavy carbon deposits.

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge is a phenomenon that occurs when lifting off the throttle of a turbocharged car. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine running boost closes, high pressure in the intake system has nowhere to go. It is forced to travel back to the turbocharger in the form of a pressure wave. This results in the wheel rapidly decreasing speed and stalling. The driver will notice a fluttering air sound.

A blow-off-valve is connected by a vacuum hose to the intake manifold after the throttle plate. When the throttle is closed, manifold vacuum without pressure develops in the intake manifold after the throttle plate and sucks the blow off valve open. The excess pressure from the turbocharger is vented into the atmosphere or recirculated into the intake upstream of the compressor inlet.

I hope this clarifies any doubt you have as to it's purpose.

Later man!

A bypass valve is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to release pressure in the intake system when the throttle is lifted or closed. This air pressure is recirculated back into the non pressurized end of the intake (before the turbo) but after the mass airflow sensor.

A blowoff valve does basically the same thing, but releases the air to the atmosphere. This creates a very distinctive sound. For some owners this is the only reason to get a blowoff valve.

The unique sound caused by a blowoff valve sometimes comes at a price. On a car the blowoff valve is mounted after the mass airflow sensor, so venting to atmosphere confuses the ECU. The ECU is told it has a specific amount of air in the intake system, and injects fuel accordingly. The amount of air released by the blowoff valve is not taken into consideration and the engine runs rich for a period of time. Engines with a manifold absolute pressure regulated ECU are not typically affected.

Typically this isn't a major issue, but sometimes it can lead to hesitation or stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed. This situation worsens with higher boost pressures. Eventually this can foul spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter. When running rich, not all the fuel is properly burned in the cylinder which can allow unburned fuel to combust upon contact with and melt the converter or to cause incompletely combusted fuel to leave heavy carbon deposits.

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge. Compressor surge is a phenomenon that occurs when lifting off the throttle of a turbocharged car. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine running boost closes, high pressure in the intake system has nowhere to go. It is forced to travel back to the turbocharger in the form of a pressure wave. This results in the wheel rapidly decreasing speed and stalling. The driver will notice a fluttering air sound.

A blow-off-valve is connected by a vacuum hose to the intake manifold after the throttle plate. When the throttle is closed, manifold vacuum without pressure develops in the intake manifold after the throttle plate and sucks the blow off valve open. The excess pressure from the turbocharger is vented into the atmosphere or recirculated into the intake upstream of the compressor inlet.

I hope this clarifies any doubt you have as to it's purpose.

Later man!

thanks for the info, very helpful..

so why is there even a such thing as atmo bov's if all they really do is release the pressure causing problems?

is it also possible that by having the atmo bov's wound tight that way only allowing less amount of air pressure out?

and in my situation my car has been tuned but continues to run quite rich, however doesnt have bad fuel economy, just blows a bit out the back.. so if adding atmo bovs makes that happen usually and mine is already does that mean it could be made alot worse again by adding them..?

Why are there things like iridium plugs? and so the list goes on :D

Just because someone makes something, doesn't mean its beneficial from a performance perspective. Some are for looks/attention and so on and offer no gain or even a hinderance

So is there in fact any evidence to prove that having a recirculating BOV is beneficial or offering any gains at all?

Also the A31 RB20DET did not have a factory BOV, whereas the R32 RB20DET did, I always thought they gave a slight performance increase due to the air charge not being forced back through the turbo or being vented to the engine bay.

i hav an r32 gtr with the bov's removed and blocked off. what i also noticed is now theres a bloody big pipe that goes all the way to the other side of the car and now its there for no reason and is just taking up space and boost pressure.

does ne 1 think this could b causing my loss of power down low as the car doesnt realy go ne where till bout 5000rpm.

is it worth putting bov's back on? romoving the pipe completely and blocking it off at the twin turbo pipe or just leavin as is?

i hav an r32 gtr with the bov's removed and blocked off. what i also noticed is now theres a bloody big pipe that goes all the way to the other side of the car and now its there for no reason and is just taking up space and boost pressure.

does ne 1 think this could b causing my loss of power down low as the car doesnt realy go ne where till bout 5000rpm.

is it worth putting bov's back on? romoving the pipe completely and blocking it off at the twin turbo pipe or just leavin as is?

Your problem is wastegate actuators. Not BOV's

I have no BOVs on my R32 gtr, i have a problem to where both the bov hoses which are located of the twin turbos joined together via a alloy pipe and hose clamped. Before this i had just the bov hose blocked on the air box side with a solid alloy block in the pipes and the car idled perfect for 1yr. Now i took all the bov steel piping out to clear for some custom intake ram air induction joined the two hoses together with alloy pipe and the idle hunts around and is a little rough down low in rpm range.

This doesnt make sense in theory they where blocked of before already only now i took out all the un necessary pipework and it behaves like this.

Did the original pipework create some balance of some sort i dont know can anyone shed some light on this please.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...