Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

damn... I'm nowhere near maxing them out at 360rwkw though... a little pressure bump would help... I'm not entering any dyno comps anytime soon so not too fussed with overall figure... just bang for buck there can't be many better ways to get another 30-40rwkw!... and its so close to my place I could run E85 all the time:)

  • Replies 489
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When you say that you change in between tunes for petrol and e85 do you have to adjust your CAS aswell?

nope... just drain fuel, plug in the datalogit and the laptop, load the new map and reattach the fuel lines :)

wow that's a huge improvement... I bet you can really feel that on the road too

ooooh yeah! its a totally different car to drive.... much harder on the nitto's tho :)

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.htm

This is an interesting product for those running alcohol fuels and want to map against fuel content.

Zeitronix sell the display for a GM flex fuel sensor that you can buy for around $300 AUD delivered from the USA.

It has a 0-5v analogue output so you can map a compensation map for E10 all the way to E100 and any variance in between (winter v summer blends) on your ECU. The motec could be mapped for fuel and timing in accordance to a % trim factor for a basic map out to protect the engine or a multi map for trimming at specific load sites, ie: load v rpm v alcohol

I have heard mixed reports regarding the southland E85, with a EVO not picking up the extra power (only 7kw) as much as the CSR ethanol from united in hoppers.

Regarding Phase Separation and E85s affinity for water absorption - has anyone experienced any problems with stored E85 for over a month? Reason being I would be more inclined to fill up a 205L drum of the stuff for a track day or just to fill up myself at the workshop. http://www.fuel-testers.com/expiration_of_ethanol_gas.html states that E10 has a shelf life of around 60-90 days due to the ethanol content (10%) wanting to absorb water. E85 could have a shelf life of around 3-4 weeks given its high ethanol content?

I have heard this too, but I dont see how it could absorb enough moisture from the air to cause an issue, as long as its stored in a sealed container. I have stored straight ethanol for years and it still burns and smells the same, vented tank would be different.

That Zeitronix box could be good for me, for mixing my own blends. It could be plugged into the Emanage input to control another map. Thanks for the find.

It has a 0-5v analogue output so you can map a compensation map for E10 all the way to E100 and any variance in between (winter v summer blends) on your ECU. The motec could be mapped for fuel and timing in accordance to a % trim factor for a basic map out to protect the engine or a multi map for trimming at specific load sites, ie: load v rpm v alcohol

Are there any other ECUs that allow adding an extra axis to the fuel/timing map?

at home i store my ethanol in a sunoco tin, which is airtight, and i keep them on milk crates so the airflows and the temps don't vary too much

as far as the southland ethanol not making the power, that would be the fault of the tune on the day (tuner, weather, how well the tank was drained.. etc) or the motor itself or the mods... the stuff has a higher octane rating, and is made by a bigger ethanol manufacturer who have previously only dealt in performance fuels...

as noted in my car, and daniel's car - same power... exactly

also in my car - 10% less fuel - 5 deg less timing was required (daniel's was similar, but i'm not 100% on the exact details)

at work today i noticed that our flour is made by manildra group... so that pretty much confirms the wheat ethanol thing :)

i found a nice new jerry @ work ;)

let me know when you want it back...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
    • The ones in brackets are the first stages of tightening. I usually aim for the middle of the range. They give a range because it's actually not that critical to hit exactly the right bolt tension. Enough is enough, and too much is too much, and the range given is inside that range. Half of the bolts in the suspension are problematic for putting a torque wrench on anyway, so just get done up to mechanic tight  and spanner checked a week later.
×
×
  • Create New...