Joeyjoejoe's E85 Tuning Adventutres

[Bond]

Not so for the Castrol edge, it went all milky within a few days,

I used Edge for the first 5000km of E85 and it was not milky at all.

[scotty nm35]

It wont in summer, only in moist cold temps. If you have a low temp thermostat it may cause even more problems.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

15w50 isn't thick for an RB motor. the block design is from the late 80's and the unopened ones are all up around 150,000 - 200,000 now

for everyday pulp i'm usuing castrol edge 10w60 these days as i drive only 5 mins to work and the engine never even gets hot, but if the car ever becomes track only i'm just gonna go motul 300v lemans 20w60.

15w50 in a motul 300v or 6100 is a great compromise for engines that see lots of high revs

the oil pumps in RB's are very high pressure and the temps on track can really soar.

[ido09s]

Especially if its an RB26.

When i was at Advan we used nothing but 300V 20W60 in GTR's and after pulling several down for freshen ups i can say the oilis awesome. Because of this i will use nothing but the 300V in my own car.

You certainly pay a premium for 300V but if it means the engine lives longer who is going to complain

Edited March 13, 2011 by ido09s

[ARTZ]

Without trying to turn this into an oil thread, Ive been under the impression from this forum that a 40w oil was plenty for most RB engines..

Now I believe thicker oils are better for older engines and engines that see a lot of hardwork, I even debated so in another thread to alot of people that swear a 40w was more than adequate for any RB.

Even you have said many times Hamish that you always used motul 4100 or has that bearing failure cause a change of heart..

personally I just use the 8100 xces but I have considered the 6100, but what is the advantage of it and why is it recomended for Ethanol.

[Birds]

For most intents and purposes, the 10w40 will be perfect for your average RB...but everyone's situation is different - to some, the 15w50 is a better fit. You should try different oil brands and viscosities until you settle on something that works for your own application. You aren't going to kill your engine in the 5000km that you spend testing an oil.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Without trying to turn this into an oil thread, Ive been under the impression from this forum that a 40w oil was plenty for most RB engines..

Now I believe thicker oils are better for older engines and engines that see a lot of hardwork, I even debated so in another thread to alot of people that swear a 40w was more than adequate for any RB.

Even you have said many times Hamish that you always used motul 4100 or has that bearing failure cause a change of heart..

personally I just use the 8100 xces but I have considered the 6100, but what is the advantage of it and why is it recomended for Ethanol.

I had always used turbolight, and I was happy with it. As a daily driver, the car absolutely loved it! I still sell it every day to people with jap motors that are just for daily drivers, but you are correct, that bearing failure has made me re-think. I lean on my motors pretty hard and I feel the extra protection of the heavier weight is worth it.

the motul 6100 synergie 15w50 is recommended for gas and diesel motors. It has a slight mineral content that allows it to absorb small ammounts of water, which makes it perfect for e85 applications.

the 8100 series is aimed at newer cars than ones running RB motors and due to it's thinner nature I would recommend going a slightly different route. what weight are you using?

[ARTZ]

.

the motul 6100 synergie 15w50 is recommended for gas and diesel motors. It has a slight mineral content that allows it to absorb small amounts of water, which makes it perfect for e85 applications.

Ok now i gets it.

I think Im using 5-40 (may be 10-40), car was always run on Mobil 1 but motul was on sale when i went to buy it.

I was under the impression light viscosity were recomended to lubricate turbos on startup, but I always let my car warm up a so little heavier wouldnt hurt.

Still haven't got my E85 tune

[discopotato03]

I think the pertinent thing is what the running oil temperatures are and obviously in a track situation it will be higher in an engine without improved water and oil cooling systems . I know of people who club raced RBs and used 10W60 oils all the time , they freely admitted that they could have had better road fuel consumption and a bit more power on the street because of lower viscocity oils reduced oil sheer drag .

Personally I think the best of both worlds is to use a thermostactically controlled oil cooler system and slightly lower viscosity oils . The oil thermostat is there to make sure the oil cooler does zip until it reaches a certain point ie 90-100 deg C . The say 10W40 oil lubricates with less drag and the oil cooler keeps it from overheating when worked hard .

Just as a heads up GL Lubricants in Sydney is bringing in some of the various Mobil 1 oils not normally sold in Australia and the ones that interest me are the synthetic 4T Racing bike oils . I've used this in 15W50 and while I've had no issues with it I'll change to the 10W40 viscosity when it becomes available soon .

These 4T Racing synthetics are not dedicated race oils but they are very high in ZDDP or Zinc and Phos which are anti wear additives fast disapearing in many current "Green Era" oils because they poison Cats over time .

From memory the pricing will be around 12-13 a quart and available also in 6 quart cartons .

Food for thought , cheers A .

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

I know of people who club raced RBs and used 10W60 oils all the time , they freely admitted that they could have had better road fuel consumption and a bit more power on the street because of lower viscocity oils reduced oil sheer drag .

so ant, what are your thought's on using say 300v 15w50 or 20w60 with it's advertised zero sheer factor?