Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did a search of the forums, but came up empty hence the question.

Took my R33 GTR v-spec to a dyno day (AWD dyno) recently and the workshop tech disabled the g-sensor unit in the console before the run.

I assumed this was done because the Attesa system would be getting wheel speed input but no g-force input. I couldn't workout how disabling the g sensor (i.e. no g-force input) would help.

Is this common practice when running a GTR on AWD dyno, and can someone explain why it's done?

You MUST drop the driveshaft for R33/R34 - otherwise you'll f**k the transfer case

Chill Ash, the OP stated it was an AWD dyno. :)

If you disable the 4wd by unplugging the g force sensor, it can make a better/more consistant number as very little drive is now sent to the front wheels.

It is more representative of how a GTR works in the real world. Excess power is sent to the front wheels only when the rears slip.

You MUST drop the driveshaft for R33/R34 - otherwise you'll f**k the transfer case

Thanks for the speedy reply. Does the driveshaft really need to be removed on a 4WD dyno? If so, what's the point of even having a 4WD dyno, or is it just the case for GTR's?

That really surprises me that they didn't do it then, as it was an experienced mechanic at a well regarded local performance workshop, and I even recall someone telling me he owns/has owned a GTR himself. :)

Chill Ash, the OP stated it was an AWD dyno. :)

If you disable the 4wd by unplugging the g force sensor, it can make a better/more consistant number as very little drive is now sent to the front wheels.

It is more representative of how a GTR works in the real world. Excess power is sent to the front wheels only when the rears slip.

Oh whops :)

indeed - my bad :(

Chill Ash, the OP stated it was an AWD dyno. :)

If you disable the 4wd by unplugging the g force sensor, it can make a better/more consistant number as very little drive is now sent to the front wheels.

It is more representative of how a GTR works in the real world. Excess power is sent to the front wheels only when the rears slip.

The wheels drive the rollers, the rollers don't drive the wheels.

So, if you start "driving" on the dyno, the rear wheels start driving the (rear) rollers but the front wheels are stationary. WHEEL SPIN! There would be no G-forces involved, because the car is stationary.

I've never had the G-sensor disabled when AWD dynoing my (R32) GTS4. Not even when 2WD dynoing (pulled fuse) it on a AWD dyno.

Ok, now i'm really confused.

If the rear wheels are spinning but the front aren't, wouldn't the Attesa ECU see that as "wheel spin" according to the ABS sensors, and try to send 50% power to the front?

Or does disabling the G-force sensor shut down the torque split control completely?

Sorry if these seem like dumb questions, but i'm still trying to get my head around how this system actually works on a dyno.....

If you disable the 4wd by unplugging the g force sensor, it can make a better/more consistant number as very little drive is now sent to the front wheels.

Doesnt this above post answer your question?? ^^^^^^

Doesnt this above post answer your question?? ^^^^^^

haha.....almost.......just still not quite clear in my mind, because I thought that if disconnecting it disabled 4wd there would be *zero* power going to the front, as opposed to *very little*.

But I guess that's near enough - thanks guys :glare:

  • 3 weeks later...

when you disable the g sensor the 4wd system shows a fault and won't run 4wd, thats all. It would work on a 2wd dyno for an r32 as well. Its exactly the same trick most cheap 4wd controllers use for rwd only mode

haha.....almost.......just still not quite clear in my mind, because I thought that if disconnecting it disabled 4wd there would be *zero* power going to the front, as opposed to *very little*.

But I guess that's near enough - thanks guys :banana:

True, disabling the 4wd means there is no electronic drive being sent to the front wheels.

But the 33/34's have a small amount of hydraulic preload in the system which sends some mech drive to the front wheels even when the torque gauge says zero.

That is why the front shaft should be removed on a 2wd dyno. (otherwise the transfer case gets very hot and kills the driveplates :0 )

This preload is enough to drive the AWD rollers but not transfer any substantial amount of power.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, still smaller rear, put on the 4inch exhaust and picked up power everywhere, ended up just shy of 800rwhp.   Didn't seem to be hitting any walls either, so perhaps could have pushed for more but all maybes and the fish that got away etc etc. 
    • Races cars don't care for VIN either...
    • This could be sold and shipped to the US for many gold pieces. RMS has no say in that. Ask various Western Sydney inhabitants how it works.
    • Ha ha ha, mine loves to spend, all on the dogs (they're our kids, and her spending would likely rival that of some people raising children!) the only benefit is, her spending is tax deductible as she runs a business in the dog industry 😛 The above all means she can spend race car budget quicker than I can. 😛 That and a lot of the things I want are very expensive, and I can be a bit "you want how much for that?!" And at other times overly impulsive. Or I start the w days of research, get to day 1.5 and get really annoyed that no one will advertise actual specifics and it's just marketting BS and I go "well, now I don't want anything to do with that now!" Also I hate paying lots of money for something I can make from $50 in materials. Then I get the shits halfway through making things and wonder why others who just buy parts have more fun... 😛  
    • Their 240Z with the RB26 would be a real nice thing to have in a garage to come out for an occasional weekend cruise It's such a cool thing in so many ways Sadly, we have a blue 240Z shell that I walk past every day, just sitting outside a shed at work, it has been slowly disintegrating and falling apart into the ground for the last few years, the owner cannot be found, and I am unable to "claim it" I've been told by work and the RMS, the rust in the body is excessive though, and it has had most of the salvageable stuff, like panels, trim and switch gear stripped off it over the last year or two, work keeps threatening to put it in one of our metal scrap bins, I wish they did though, as it makes Mark sad walking past it  
×
×
  • Create New...