Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys been looking through some threads and all i have gathered about knock sensors is that they do something with the timing and there is 2 of them in a r32 gtst?

why 2 of them? do i need to buy 2 if 1 is faulty? where are they? what happens when one or both plays up?

basically i got my car checked out today because of a problem that i have not yet been able to figure out. have a r32 gtst that has power cut outs randomly and then jump back on after that. otherwise the car runs fine. if i'm idling and it happens it'll make the car stall.

got it checked out and hooked up to the computer and it came up with the knock sensor error? they said to replace the knock sensor but would it also be that something else is making the knock sensor error come up or is contributing to it?

anywhere on the forums i can get a new one? how much are they usually?.

thanks!

hey guys been looking through some threads and all i have gathered about knock sensors is that they do something with the timing and there is 2 of them in a r32 gtst?

why 2 of them? do i need to buy 2 if 1 is faulty? where are they? what happens when one or both plays up?

There are two because one does cylinders 1-3 and the other does 4-6. They are screwed into the block 'underneath' the inlet manifold just below the head gasket line, roughly in line with cylinders 2 and 5. If they trip an error in the ECU it will limit or fix the ignition timing advance in what's called the 'knock control region' (KCR) of the ignition timing map. It's done to prevent engine damage.

if i'm idling and it happens it'll make the car stall.

Ignition timing at idle won't be included in the KCR, which might suggest you have another problem entirely.

Did you clear the ECU error codes, run the engine again (ie drive it for awhile) and then recheck the error codes ?? You should always follow that procedure to ensure that the error code isn't simply transient. Even if you did follow that procedure, the first thing you should do is check all the wiring and knock sensor connectors for damage or even simple disconnection. A knock sensor is basically a PZT, which are very simple and robust devices and while it is possible for one to fail, that's pretty uncommon. Testing is not simple and requires access to an oscilloscope to be absolutely sure, and even then there's a bit of interpretation required. Substitution of a known good one (or pair) is usually quicker. A new one from Nissan is probably at least a few hundred $$.

The ECU has knock timing map and knock fuel map. When knock is detected the ECU uses those maps, which have more fuel and less timing. The normal and knock maps are also known as the premium and regular fuel maps.

A knock sensor error indicates the sensor is broken and that is a different thing to sensing knock, which is a normal thing for the sensor. Its likely that the ECU takes the conservative approach and uses the knock maps if it cant get a reading from the sensor. Ie it assumes worst case as its preferable to risk inefficient operation than risk motor damage.

So check all the wiring, and if there's no breaks or shorts its probably time to change the sensor(s). Or take it to a pro and get it properly diagnosed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...