Who Can Street Tune Chipped Ecu

[rnbguy]

any idea what his contact details are, i tried calling and smsing a mobile i found on here (bit of an old thread) and it didnt work.

[EFI Performance]

Have fun st tuning, it seems people still WONT spend money on there cars to get a job done right.

A dyno tune is way better than coping a loss of license or a massive speeding fine, not only that putting you, the tuner and other people on the road at risk.

Don't take it the wrong way, but i had a mate end up upside down because his mate wanted him to st tune his GTR. POINTLESS. pay the coin and dyno tune it.

Edited March 20, 2009 by EFI Performance

[rnbguy]

its an old 93 skyline,good for thrashing that's buot it not worth too much.... but thanx for the tip

[VB-]

you wont (*cant*) get a propper tune on the street. why are you being so tight about it? at best you may save $100, is it worth the risk of doing your licence, popping a motor etc, and end up with a lower quality tune just to save $100......

think about it.

now think about it again.

ok foget it, you dont know whats good for you, just go put it on a f*cking dyno

*the 'can't' thing is just my opinion, i know people on here do it somewhat succesfully, i dont believe in it personally though*

[Wacky Dee]

I had my R34 GTT street tuned by Toshi (ecu remap) NOT because of lower costs vs dyno tune BUT because Toshi reckoned a street tune is far more reliable as you can tune the maps both under load and with no load iirc.

I can't say I understood everything he said (not just due to my lack of understanding of timings/load etc but also language barrier). However TBH if I were to tune/remap the ecu again I WOULD go for the dyno. As someone mentioned above you really need to drive REALLY fast when street tuning when doing 4000+ rpm and at some point I was driving 150Kmh+

I wouldn't do it again 1) beauce if a highway patrol caught me it'd be instant loss of license and huge fine 2) you're really putting everyone on the road at unnecessary risk.

[Wacky Dee]

Oh and another thing .. forget ecu remaps if you can get a PFC. I paid approx. $600 iirc for a remap and fine tune later.

Then days later when I saw Yavuz at Unigroup he told me he had a used PFC laying around and would do a full tune + pfc for $1100 I think he said. I was kicking myself for days and still am ... wish I'd gotten the PFC and the dyno tune. I don't know, I just don't trust the ecu remap.

[Tangles]

the toshi remap is awesome !!

so loving it, but running mine off piggybacks for air:fuel and timing, plus soon also injection

re-dynoed last week and its the best the stagea has ever been

in the process of saving for a wideband sensor kit, and will remap to suit better air/fuel+timing+injector settings

on a dyno tho. roadtuning is moreso for logging data for the finetune.

[Wacky Dee]

which piggyback does timing ?? I thought they're only for AFRs and you need a PFC to do ign timing

[Tangles]

my controls are:

apexi sitc - ignition timing controller

nismo fuel pressure regulator - adjustable

apexi safc II - for air fuel control

toshi ecu - derestricted ecu, remapped

hks aic-4 - additional injector controller (to go with intake manifold 2x700cc sard setup)

+ hopefully a wideband controller setup

[rnbguy]

emanage does timming too... but ive used sitc reliably before.

[Equinox]

I tuned mine for 2 hours on the dyno to do the full load 4th gear to redline stuff right. Then spent hours on the street getting every other bit right. Cruise fuel map, acceleration enrichment, etc

You really have to do both. The dyno is only good for hitting limiter in 4th under big load. Everything else is better done on the street.

[R31Nismoid]

I had my R34 GTT street tuned by Toshi (ecu remap) NOT because of lower costs vs dyno tune BUT because Toshi reckoned a street tune is far more reliable as you can tune the maps both under load and with no load iirc.

I can't say I understood everything he said (not just due to my lack of understanding of timings/load etc but also language barrier). However TBH if I were to tune/remap the ecu again I WOULD go for the dyno. As someone mentioned above you really need to drive REALLY fast when street tuning when doing 4000+ rpm and at some point I was driving 150Kmh+

I wouldn't do it again 1) beauce if a highway patrol caught me it'd be instant loss of license and huge fine 2) you're really putting everyone on the road at unnecessary risk.

You have got to be joking...

How a street tune can be more reliable is beyond me. Basic logic would tell you a dyno is as controlled as the conditions are going to get.

And the street has about every variable you can think of.

You tune on the dyno, go for a drive for a week or two. Often most experienced tuners can get it right on the dyno the first time.

Odd occasion you might get the odd engine light/high knock due to the weather being really cold one night (Which you cant simulate dyno or street at the time of a tune) and then its only a 5min fix that most tuners will adjust for free anyhow if you note RPM/Load (how much throttle)/Speed/Gear and so on.

I cannot see how the top end of 4th is remotely tuneable on the street, let alone the top end of 2nd gear in which you already puts you over the speed limit in most states of Australia.

[Wacky Dee]

Well your logic escapes me .. do you drive your car on the dyno when going to the shops or when you go for a cruise? Dynos are good for tuning the top end ie. for racing puroses. Daily driving doesn't involve loading the car up in 4th and hitting the limiter..

Having said that, as I said before ..street tuning anything about 5000rpm becomes real dangerous due to the speeds involved so I'd prefer a dyno next time.

[VB-]

the problem with street tuning is getting an accurate figure of torque.

any half decent tuner with aim for 'MBT', you cant find that without an accurate torque figure, alot of street tunes involve pushing the motor till it knocks, then just winding it back a few degrees, which isnt the 'right' way to tune. yes you can measure time against revs, but you will find alot of variables on the street as R31nismoid said, which will skew your time vs revs graph.

alot of tuners also will hit knock, take it back a bit, thats it. on a dyno, you can tune everywhere, not just high load/high revs, and your car will make more power everywhere as a result.

PS - if you cant handle 5000rpm on the street your a girl only jk

Edited March 24, 2009 by VB-

[Equinox]

That's especially true for N/A cars. Tuning an N/A car on the street is basically impossible. Peak torque will be obtained way before knock rears its head.

Street tuning usually works for our turbo motors as they will keep making peak torque up until they knock. (On anything running a decent amount of boost)

But yes tuning the cruise timing map either requires a dyno or an EGT gauge and/or some sort of cylinder pressure gauge.

Edited March 24, 2009 by Equinox

[R31Nismoid]

Well your logic escapes me .. do you drive your car on the dyno when going to the shops or when you go for a cruise? Dynos are good for tuning the top end ie. for racing puroses. Daily driving doesn't involve loading the car up in 4th and hitting the limiter..

I have issues loading up a 280rwkw car in 2nd on the street to be honest. As anyone else running mid level modified card on the street.

So yes, I most certainly do use at load driving around up to legal speed limits, and i can assure you attemping street tuning would be nothing short of dangerous, and also attacts "attention" if your out there trying to simulate max load for hours on end to try and get it kinda right

[Wacky Dee]

Ok I won't argue with you as I agree with you for the most part, except that dyno is the most accurate tune for a daily driver for example (which is most cars here I suspect).

How do you load up a car on the dyno anyway in 2nd ??? On the street all you need to do is goto the highway outside peak hour and find a steep and long uphill stretch .. that's what we were doing. I think Toshi's comment was that he does not understand how load is even simulated on the dyno in 2nd 3rd etc in the low-mid range RPM .. Where does the load come from when the car is usually sitting there strapped in nose pointing downward and spinning 2 rollers with the rear wheels ?

Yes those are genuine questions, not being sarcastic. Toshi also mentioned that there are a handful of places that have expensive dynos with some special devices (not just rollers) which are used to simulate load but I can't remember the details. However every dyno I have been to was the standard 2 rollers and that's it..

[R31Nismoid]

You just control the rollers via the dyno

Same for Auto's run in lower gears because overdrive is no good

[EFI Performance]

It's called "SPEED HOLD" that's how you get your cruise mixtures right.

This a setting in the dyno that will hold load on the roller and wont let the wheels over speed past the setting point, you can also do it with engine RPM Vs mph.

So what you can do while the engine/vehicle is static outweighs what ever you will try and do on the street.

[Wacky Dee]

so does every dyno have this feature ? most of the ones I've been to were Dynalink I think..