Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts25t S2

Mattw_83

By Mattw_83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DaveO74 Mentor

DaveO74

Posted
Posted

How come noone seems to rate the Greddy EMU as an alternative to the PFC? I know it is still a Piggy Back Computer but I have had one for around 12 months and am really happy with it (Bought it back when PFC's were very scarce and VERY expensive!)and last time I checked which was a while ago they were a little cheaper than a PFC

Is there something I dont know about the EMU??

Had it installed by Jim at CRD and he seems to rate them just as high as a PFC

Sorry for the thread jump

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

it depends on your aims.... i have a power fc in my street car (300rwkw) and couldn't do without it...

i'm building up a ke70 drift pig with an SR20 and will probably just go with a safc for $$$ sake... the car is getting stripped and should weigh 900kgs give or take so i dont need massive power... 180rwkw (using my old 33 turbo) or so is the same power to weight as around 270rwkw in a full weight 33gtst.

the ke70 will be a rough car though... and if i get real shitty with the lack of timing i might buy a 2nd hand SITC in the future...

just to show an example of how its not always needed...

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
The money you spend on a SAFC you could get a toshi/doctor drift remap of your std ecu and do so much more with it, its not a pfc, but its way better than a SAFC.

So bang for bucks as a first step is rechip imo.

read this and other threads like it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...l&hl=doctor

This is what i wanted to do. But i would much prefer a Toshi remap with the road tune he does. I was a bit wary of just telling him my mods list and getting a re-map. He was asking for the temps i get over in NZ etc. He even said it would need to be dyno'd and touched up as required anyway. So theres more cost for that option :stupid:

If he flew over however.. :)

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

I would lean towards a full ecu if possible.

Im in a similar boat. My turbo is on its way out and have eyed up a larger turbo which ill be getting very soon. I bought a BRAND new SAFC Neo for peanuts(mates rates). However im contemplating whether to have it tuned or sell it, put the money aside, save up for a Link G4 and get it tuned once and for all.

Like everyone said tho, if you have a stock turbo you could do with a safc, however, when you do get 200rwkw, i bet you my bottom dollar that you WILL want more, and then you will realise "Doh, iv hit a brick wall". I know its hard, but you will end up saving money in the long run.

Just my 2c.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyZDvZmvhik
    • GTSBoy
      Car Rotisserie

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You'd be better off digging a pit and standing under it to shoot it.
    • MBS206
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The easiest way would to be ignore the oscilloscope, grab a multimeter, and make sure all the main connections are right. An oscilloscope will give 99.9% of even technicians so much grief, as they have no idea what things should even look like on an oscilloscope. Which is also even more likely for someone who's first ever major work on a car is this If the battery volts are dropping down so low, the LDV will reboot the ECU, when it does so, it will drop out the start circuit. If this is occuring, the battery voltage should also come back up. Give it a few tests, even simple ones like when you're attempting to crank it, measure voltage from the engine block, to the negative terminal. You might find you've got really bad connections somewhere. My guess is the "new" motor has something like a shit starter motor, at which point, you can swap the starter motor from the old motor, to the new motor. Before I did any of the above though, I'd 100% confirm the battery in the vehicle. Most jumper packs are absolutely useless, especially if a battery has a bad cell for example. Also the new modern "jump packs" if you don't know what you're doing with them, you won't even get them into high current stage. So go back to basics, check the battery, especially with a known good one as a replacement test. Check ALL the wiring, this includes where they're bolted onto the battery, and bolted onto the starter motor. Check all the earth straps are on. Measure your resistances across your earth straps. A good check here is to measure voltage across the earth straps while you're trying to crank it. If you're seeing voltage, you've got high resistance joints! Oh, and once you've done the above, check the battery over again.
    • MBS206
      Car Rotisserie

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For most rotisseries, as Duncan has mentioned, you really don't want a full car on it, you want a stripped shell. And imagine how many more weeks THAT is going to add to working on the car...
×
×
  • Create New...