Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MUNDA's RB26 Rebuild

Bottom End Parts

Block

Standard RB26 Bottom (acid dipped, machined)

Crank

TOMEI Forged Full-Counter Crankshaft

Connecting Rods

TOMEI Forged H-BEAM 21mm PIN

Pistons

TOMEI Forged Pistons 87.0 Bore 21mm PIN

Piston Rings

TOMEI Forged Piston Rings

Conrod Bearing

NISMO Conrod Bearings

Crank Bearing

NISMO Crank Bearings

Oil Pump

NISMO Oil Pump

Gaskit Kit

TOMEI Gasket Kit 87.0 Bore 1.8mm Thickness

Timing Belt

TOMEI Strengthened Timing Belt

Bolts/Studs

TOMEI Cam & TOMEI Crank Cap Studs

Top End Parts

Head

Standard RB26 Head

Cams

JUN High Lift Camshafts

Injectors

SARD Injectors 1.10 msec

Coil Pack

SPLITFIRE Direct Ignition

Fuel Rail

HKS Fuel Rail

Fuel Pump

TOMEI Fuel Pump & Regulator

Alright, now I believe that I have figured most of the main parts and things out, all I need to figure out are the turbos (I want to do twin turbo), wastegate (external or internal), manifold and intake pipes. What I want to know is, what turbos will be able to push what HP on this motor, money should not be a problem for me. I know I will need a upgraded driveshaft, tranny, the works, I will get that all done. I am looking for somewhere in the 600-700 rwhp range.

Some other questions that I had are what sort of lift and duration do the camshafts need? Should I keep the standard 86.5mm bore or up it by 0.5mm to go 87.0mm bore, and whats the difference between the two, which is more stable? How thick should the head gasket be?

Also, if I am missing any other main parts please point that out to me, I am slowing learning, and just want to get my homework done before I go and purchase any parts.

Thanks a lot guys, im looking forward to hear from you,

MUNDA

Edited by MUNDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259070-mundas-rb26-rebuild/
Share on other sites

To start with, you are going to meed an N1 block to go safely to 87mm. You can still do it on the standard RB26 block but I have heard of people who have had issues doing it reliably. The extra 0.5mm is not going to make you any more hp.

The turbos you'll need are 707160-5's and you need to wring their necks to get them there, or you can go for the 707160-10's and do it a little more easily.

The head gasket doesn't need to be 1.8mm, in fact no more than 1.5mm should be ok. It really depends on how much hp you want to make on pump fuel, if you want to make 700hp on pulp then maybe stay with the 1.8mm gasket and put up with the lower compression.

For the camshafts, you won't need anything bigger than 260 x 9.15mm. Standard camshafts on a GTR are pretty good and you could probably leave them, but there are still advantages to be had by upgrading.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end a made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
    • As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.
    • Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.
    • Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
×
×
  • Create New...