Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if the cars have not left japan yet there is no much chance of them getting here before april. i'd say mid-late april. it's about 2 weeks on the water, but that can blow out to 3 or more with weather, and is also dependent on the route the ship takes. it's not like there's a dedicated ship direct from wherever in japan they ship from straight to sydney or melbourne. there are stops along like way like PNG etc, sometimes they even go to NZ first, then to aus. then you have customs and local transfer from whichever port they land at. then any other dealer stuff that needs to be done.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Mooroka Nissan told me that mine would land in Australia (Brisbane) on the 24th. It would need at least 2 weeks to clear customs and then they'd need it for a few days. They are doing their best to get it to me before Easter. Not long now. They are having a Gala Launch at their showroom next Thursday evening and test drives would be available after that.

ok i didnt read the thread like at all.. ok so maybe a lil.. i saw alot of ppl going "oh ur landing here first, or there first"

i saw a nissan truck bout 4 weeks ago carring 6 brand new silver?? GTRs headed for melbourne..

pretty flash :) i saw them on the hume on my way home from sydney :3some:

so this about they havent left yet or whatever.. they have been here for a month atleast. and what a sight it was hahah i was drooling

They were the test / press cars that they have been using for training etc down at Broadford these last weeks.

The first of the customer delivered cars are the ones arriving on the boat this week.

My car is at the docks in Brisbane as of late last night, gunmetal premium.

Just a week or so from getting it now.

Plates have arrived from PPQ. PLating a car with the vehicle name is not to everyones taste i know but I'm a big fan so here they are...

gallery_56949_3170_87159.jpg

Great plates!

Im a big fan of those type of plates. Much nicer than "RUNME", "LETSGO", "4DPIGS" or "5LUTB8" ones which are utter crap IMO.

Here's mine:

GTR;

BMW04SIL033.jpg

Supra; (excuse the crappy pic)

JZA80plates002.jpg

Lucky you're in Qld and only have to pay once for plates

Nice plates back at you!

The ppq flexi plates if installed correctly look pretty damn good to (adhesives can ruin the backing if not done right).

Although the car is at the docks the dealers are still very ambiguous about the exact delivery date. Frustrating, thinking of my baby sitting there all by herself when she should be getting some luvin'

Great plates!

Im a big fan of those type of plates. Much nicer than "RUNME", "LETSGO", "4DPIGS" or "5LUTB8" ones which are utter crap IMO.

Lucky you're in Qld and only have to pay once for plates

Edited by handbrake
Although the car is at the docks the dealers are still very ambiguous about the exact delivery date. Frustrating, thinking of my baby sitting there all by herself when she should be getting some luvin'

I know what you mean, I know my car will be delivered to the dealer very early next week, however the dealer said they will not be in a position to have it "Street Prepared" for about another 10 days.

It had better not have any Km's on it, I would be very very curious if people could post the Number of KM's on the clock at delivery.

Let the countdown continue.

It had better not have any Km's on it, I would be very very curious if people could post the Number of KM's on the clock at delivery.

Cant you request a printout from the datalog?

Hmmm, good luck with that.

My old man purchased the first in Queensland KF Laser TX3 turbo 4wd back in 1991..... went to collect it from the dealer, where it was sitting proudly on thier rotating display centre of showroom....... with a huge dent and gouge into the front left gaurd, and over 400klm on the clock! Needless to say, they were told to jam it and he'd wait for another.

Months later at first service time I was talking to the service manager and he was saying how all the boys and had a strap in the first one they delivered! lol - no doubt the old boy's original car.

Hopefully the recent junket down to melbourne where they thrashed those super silver GTR's got that out of their system. I have already told them I would be very unhappy to see any evidence of inappropriate usage of my car prior to delivery. Some of the NAGTROC forum posts state 20-30 miles on the car at delivery as the upper limit of the norm. Seems like a lot. I am told they have some km's on the clock from testing before they leave Japan?

Hmmm, good luck with that.

My old man purchased the first in Queensland KF Laser TX3 turbo 4wd back in 1991..... went to collect it from the dealer, where it was sitting proudly on thier rotating display centre of showroom....... with a huge dent and gouge into the front left gaurd, and over 400klm on the clock! Needless to say, they were told to jam it and he'd wait for another.

Months later at first service time I was talking to the service manager and he was saying how all the boys and had a strap in the first one they delivered! lol - no doubt the old boy's original car.

Edited by handbrake

I'm sure it will be fine, I would imagine dealer principals will be keeping close tabs on all GTR activity......

Although, wouldn't it be wonderful to have your GTR delivered, without your knowledge that your warranty was void prior to you taking delivery due to the mechanics utilising "launch control" :laugh: I jest I jest...... :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...