Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't have the AFRs mapped on the dyno sheet but here are some basic pinouts of the AFRs 4th gear:

RPM AFR

3000 13.8

3500 13.2

4000 12.6

4500 12.4

5000 12.3

5500 12.0

6000 11.4

6500 11.3

7000 11.0

7500 10.8

8000 10.7

The engine is an R33 RB26 stock except:

Boost - 12psi

3" exhaust no cat

Blitz pod filters

310 RWHP

Are the AFRs down low too lean? The car makes full boost by about 3500rpm so ideally,shouldn't the AFRs be 12:1 at this point???

I noticed most dyno sheets here uses speed instead of rpm on the horizontal so it's kinda hard for me to interpret them.

Where in the rpm range on full load do tuners aim to get afrs @ 12:1 ???

Thanks again guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259212-r33-gtr-afr-too-lean/
Share on other sites

stop bumping your thread. and do some research. 10.7 at the top end is actually very rich. to me it just looks like a regular standard ecu with more boost than stock. that is what they do. it's leaner at low RPM as it comes out of cruise (closed loop) mode.

stop bumping your thread. and do some research. 10.7 at the top end is actually very rich. to me it just looks like a regular standard ecu with more boost than stock. that is what they do. it's leaner at low RPM as it comes out of cruise (closed loop) mode.

like i said previously 9 out of 10 dyno sheets here uses speed instead of rpm, so it's difficult for me to read them accurately....

And yes i know the top end is rich. My question: Is it ok to to have it so lean at full boost until about 5500rpm where afrs then come to 12:1 ???

bump... your thread wasnt even there for 3hours... relax.

Anyway - those AFR's sound safe, lots of tuners are going leaner, simple look @ the dyno thread would show it.

CRD and a few others are known for it

he just explained it was safe as above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...