Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, the story thus far.

My RB20 has pretty much shat itself. The head is likely to be cracked - I've had enough of it. I have a few options.

- Another RB20. I've been quoted $1500 for the full kit (is this too much? It seems high), with 6 months warranty.

- RB26 Conversion. Has anyone done this for an R32? What extra needs to be done plumbing wise?

- RB25 Conversion. Another option, but apparently it will need alot of work done.

Any advice at all would be great on the above conversions in particular.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/
Share on other sites

If you need to do this on a budget go rb20

A great car is the rb25 r32

RB26 gtst will be a heap of mucking around and money

Thanks for the quick response. Have you done a RB25 conversion? I'd like to know what needs to be done, whether my current RB30 turbo will bolt on nice and easy, what extra plumbing I'll need to do, etc. I'll be really curious to pull apart my current RB20 though to find exactly what has been done to it, seeing as it is pushing out 186kw@rears (well it was before BANG)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453554
Share on other sites

No dramas

No i havnt, ive got a GTR so ive done the rb30 conversion with the 26 head.

Do you plan on doing the work yourself or a workshop doing it for you?

The work will be done at a workshop nice and cheap by mates of my dad, so all of that will be looked after. The RB20 I've been quoted is an import so it will very likely be low km's, but the warranty is the thing I'm liking the most. I didn't expect $1500 however so I'm not sure if I'm being ripped off there (the importer quoted my mechanic, those two have a business relationship already so I'm unsure). I just want the car to be as quick, if not quicker than what it was seeing as I have to rebuild the motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453572
Share on other sites

Sort of same thing but i used to have an RB20 cefiro and converted it to RB25 including g/box when mine went bang!!

All i can say is that it was well worth it!!! I sourced a 20,000km RB25DET out of a Stagea so same as R34GTT one, w/gearbox + ecu, loom, all bits n pieces for just under 3.5K including shipping. That was about 4 years ago so should be cheaper these days.

The performance gain is just so so worth it. The torque, delivery, response of the RB25 is so much better IMO.

AS for what is required to do the conversion... well not sure if it is the same between Cefiro and R32, but it was crossmembers and engine mount locations, gearbox mounts and exhaust location..... then ur usual re-wiring for the loom..... fair bit of work but just time intensive....... If your budget can stretch to about $4K then do the RB25 conversion....

My 2 C

Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453856
Share on other sites

What for?

When I bought the car a couple of months ago it had been worked quite a bit...so Exhaust, HKS Pod Filter, very black tint, aftermarket intercooler, BOV, and whatever our friends at the pit can find. Not to mention that I'm still on my P's so I got doubleraped. Thankfully though, the cop was decent...didn't give me an EPA fine, only an RTA one so it was $82 no points. P plater/turbo however, $405 3 points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4456747
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So yeah, list is as follows (probably forgotten some stuff)

Intercooler - removed or engineered (doing the latter)

ECU - SAFCII apparently non compliant, need a stock ECU

Turbo - RB30 bolt on is non compliant, need a stock Turbo

Window Tint - since the car was ADR complied in 2000 its too dark, needs to be removed

Suspension - Bilstien coilovers need to be put back to stock ride height

Exhaust - Needs to be put back to stock, otherwise the car would need to go down to the EPA join in Penrith and tbh, f**k that

Pod filter & BOV - obvious ones, but least of my worries

So yeah, if anyone has a stock exhaust, ecu and turbo lying around for sale, please let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4492978
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Not having much luck are you, how long do you have left on your p-plates?

I have a stock turbo for sale if your interested:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...73#entry4530573

I also have other items at my place like a stock turbo back exhaust and airbox ect that i'm not selling, but if your in the area you can borrow them to clear the defect then give them back..... i just want to keep them for myself so i'm not in the same boat as you if i get done for a "random breath test" and defected haha

Good luck with it mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4530594
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys I’m chasing a Rb20det complete or bare block need a good running engine as mine has low comp 
    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
×
×
  • Create New...