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Gtr Rb30 Sump Adaptor Plates

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
yeah. last thing you need is a bloke 100000kms away slaging your shit after hes paid good money and the f**ker locks up when its all tensioned down..

shane.. so your countersunk holes are oval? what about when its tightened? wont it centre itself being a taper?

That and relying on someone else to line bore it properly are my my greatest concerns lol

i dont actually use tapered bolts, i use a proper cap headed bolt. And for the 5 8mm bolts on the diff side that u need to tap the block for, i use a special half headed bolt so it leaves enough meat in the plate when its countersunk.

I decided not to use a tapered head bolt as a normal square headed bolt has a greater and more even surface to clamp down with.

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R.I.P.S NZ Collaborator

R.I.P.S NZ

Posted
Posted

Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Sorry Shane, I'm really not trying to rain on your parade but your going through the exact same issues I had to sort out years ago.

Are you using countersunk capscrews to hold the outer perimeter of the cradle to the rails?

Best thing you can do is build a motor with your design, address each and every problem as you get to them (there are still many more to come, trust me), run the motor at at least 1300-1400hp/10,000rpm to test it all, after 12 months or so and possibly several revisions/changes, you may have it sorted out and to a point you'll be able to sell them to the type of customer who can justify going to a full billet cradle in the first place.

Unless its proven in very high hp, high rpm motors your very target market possibly won't want to use it.

Many times over the years, I've been told my ideas won't work or arn't right but I never gave up and I tested everything myself so it was only my money I wasted if it all turned to shyte so keep going and best of luck to you with this and any other of your ideas,

Rob

Dont worry rob i really do appreciate your pointers as you have been building these things for years and have great results, clearly shows ur a wealth of knowledge.

U prolly didnt see my post just before, but im using a convential cap head bolt, not a tapered bolt. I can see the issues ud have if u used a tapered head bolt though.

Yeh i was going to wait and test it on my own car but its getting some chassis work done atm so it wont be ready to use for sometime, also i'm working with a workshop who have cars available to test on and if testing goes to plan a drag car to test on half way through the year.

I do see issues already like how are we going to overcome differences in thermal expansion (most likely by running non-std clearances), line boring with the 2 different metals and many more, but like u said thats what the testing is there for!

Thanks for the help so far, i really do appreciate it :P

  • 2 months later...
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

good luck with that 1 hey greg

:P

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted
Hi all,

I've had quite a few people after kits. We're currently out of stock until at least the first week of June.

smorcr, I doubt anyone will give you the cad files to have one cut. Being in NZ, why don't you get one from RIPS?

I should have posted this 2 weeks ago. A couple of minutes after typing the post above, 16 plates arrived from the laser cutter. They will be machined Monday and back in stock. I'll take some video of the CNC process, it's pretty cool to watch if anyone is interested.

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted
HEY rob in in auckland and would like to know more about your kits can you email me a price and what comes in this kit plz send pics to and if theres more than 1 opp then show me my opps and prices EMAIL me [email protected]

Most of the info you're after is on his website, proengines.com.au - have a look and email him.

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted
I've just used a pro-engines plate, the quality is excellent.

with a bit of work the guys at hills motorsports have retained the internal oil pump pickup too.

Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

  • 7 months later...
R32 Driver Mentor

R32 Driver

Posted
Posted

Sorry for digging up an old thread!

I have a Trust Sump extension and was wondering are the proengines/shane/rips etc internal pickups made for the stock sump?

or are they custom made each order to suit?

I know a GTR in UK has modified a proengines pickup with the Trust pickup however i was wondering is there a bolt on option

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

We can supply them with a semi finished pickup that needs to be cut to length to suit the depth of the sump. It's a fairly simple job but you need someone who can tig weld to weld it together once you have the length right.

  • 2 weeks later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
Good to hear Duncan, was Mark happy with it?

yep, mostly because it was complete and spot on :thumbsup: there might be cheaper options for basic cost, but this was a straight fit, no stuffing around option which is exactly what any workshop wants.

no point saving $100 and then having the workshop spend 4-8 hours modifying things to fit at $80-100/hr

We ended up using the standard pickup so it is about 1cm higher than normal - as a result I run a little more oil. We could have extended it as suggested but this is just a roady and it wasn't worth the trouble.

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