Jump to content
SAU Community

How Can I Improve My Audio Setup?

Tyson 1990

By Tyson 1990,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tyson 1990 Community Regular

Tyson 1990

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, i wouldn't really call it an audio setup, its a couple speakers and an amp lol.

I have:

JL Audio 6.5" Splits in the doors

JL Audio 6x9's On the parcel shelf

JL Audio 4 Channel Amp next to my battery

I'm not sure whether i should go for a sub or something. I don't want to replace any of my current speakers or amps, i don't mind buying an addition amp for the sub if i get one. I listen to Post-Hardcore music mainly. I've always been skeptical of whether a sub can even keep up with my songs and if it can i don't want it drowning out the sound of the actual song. My friend chucked a sub into his car (with factory speakers) and i can't hear the music at all, i just hear the stupid sub sound and the rattling of his car.

I know this is probably an going to be an incredibly stupid question but i know nothing about this stuff: Does the subwoofer make proper noise like normal speakers (vocals in songs etc) or does it just make that bass feel? Like if i got a subwoofer, would it make my music any louder or not?

Anyway, heres an example of the music i listen to. I want everything to be able to play this song perfectly. Listen out real close for the double kicks, they are extremely fast so i'd want the subwoofer to be able to keep up:

Oh also the youtube vid i've just posted doesn't have a music video for it. So it should load real quick, please listen to the whole song if your going to suggest what i should do to improve my setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBE8Qy8jJxM

^^ I don't know how to make that appear on the forum as an actual video since i copied and pasted the embedding but it didn't work. So theres the link.

Thanks

Edited by Tyson 1990
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259341-how-can-i-improve-my-audio-setup/
Share on other sites
SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted

im guessing that if u want a sub go for a smaller one that can keep up with the bass. say a 10 inch or fast 12 inch. could be wrong about the smaller the faster but thats just how ive seen it.

i suppose u could also get a pair of tweeters without the component speaker? i had a pair of Rockford Fosgate tweeters bought off ebay for cheap in my lancer. just hooked em straight up to the head unit and they gave some more crisp sound

Sloupos Enthusiast

Sloupos

Posted
Posted

im not a guru but i have installed a few systems in the past

sounds like u got a great set up as is, so i wouldnt go changing the JL units

the splits have no bass.. and the 6x9's in the rear are there to just 'fill in'

but yeah rule of thumb for me is 10" in a sealed box for sharp bass,

12" either ported or sealed in reference to the sub specs for all round music

and 15" in a ported box for RnB and not so fast doof doof

i'd go a single 12inch for ur set up... a heavy one..means lots of magentic coils for quick bass

open to more info, id like to know what other ppl think... let me know if im totally wrong lol

hope thats helpful

cyas

Jay_R33 Community Regular

Jay_R33

Posted
Posted

Damn that song scared the crap outta me...not into the whole emo/scremo thingy but anyway

IMO it doesnt really seem like you would need a sub..sub are great for house, rnb, hip hop to give u that feel...i mean you could get one and maybe notice a difference but 6x9's r pretty good and jl audio at that i used to have em great stuff but yeah 10 inch ftw if u get em....also if u get a 12 inch listen to

A Millie - Lil Wayne..blow you pants off

burkill Community Regular

burkill

Posted
Posted

your system now sounds good, i small sub should help it out, my system sounds putrid without a sub, it makes it seem a lot louder.

there are plenty of subs you can try at the shop(s) and you can tune your amp to suit (turn bass up and down etc)

so take a cd in, and have a listen.

i listen to slipknot sometimes, my 12 inch sony sub goes okay and it's pretty cheap gear.

i agree with the splits too.

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted
Well, i wouldn't really call it an audio setup, its a couple speakers and an amp lol.

I have:

JL Audio 6.5" Splits in the doors

JL Audio 6x9's On the parcel shelf

JL Audio 4 Channel Amp next to my battery

I'm not sure whether i should go for a sub or something. I don't want to replace any of my current speakers or amps, i don't mind buying an addition amp for the sub if i get one. I listen to Post-Hardcore music mainly. I've always been skeptical of whether a sub can even keep up with my songs and if it can i don't want it drowning out the sound of the actual song. My friend chucked a sub into his car (with factory speakers) and i can't hear the music at all, i just hear the stupid sub sound and the rattling of his car.

I know this is probably an going to be an incredibly stupid question but i know nothing about this stuff: Does the subwoofer make proper noise like normal speakers (vocals in songs etc) or does it just make that bass feel? Like if i got a subwoofer, would it make my music any louder or not?

Anyway, heres an example of the music i listen to. I want everything to be able to play this song perfectly. Listen out real close for the double kicks, they are extremely fast so i'd want the subwoofer to be able to keep up:

Oh also the youtube vid i've just posted doesn't have a music video for it. So it should load real quick, please listen to the whole song if your going to suggest what i should do to improve my setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBE8Qy8jJxM

^^ I don't know how to make that appear on the forum as an actual video since i copied and pasted the embedding but it didn't work. So theres the link.

Thanks

I'm not claiming to be an expert on the subject, but I seriously doubt any decent sub, whether 10" or 18" could not keep up. I didn't listen to the song (not in an appropriate place to do so) but do you think humans can kick faster than an electric current could move up and down a voice coil?

Sure a dodgy sub might not last, but I have trance songs that have deep, loud vibrations that literally rattle the shit out of my car and guts. I'm certain those vibrations are faster than any double kick, and the sub maintains it for several seconds with ease.

Tyson 1990 Community Regular

Tyson 1990

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks everyone, i might just stick with how it is for now.

I don't think i'll ever listen to some Lil Wayne songs lol.

Also, the band in which song i posted, humans can't double kick that fast in some of their songs. Some of their songs have double kicks too fast for anyone to do, they just use their electronic stuff etc to make the double kick that fast.

Aggroman Grand Master

Aggroman

Posted
Posted

Hey man,

I listen to alot of metal and the likes.

Does your 4 channel amp power all 4 speakers or do you have the doors running off the head unit (in my car i have my door speakers running off the head-unit and the sub/rear pods off the amp.

For our type of music a 10 inch in a box is the only decent thing imo, gives a nice sharp fast note (listen to divine heresy, fastest double kicker in the world 06) and my sub keeps up with that..

And the reason i tell you to get a 10 inch is so its not too heavy on the bass and would remove the bass from your 6x9's and door speakers so the sound will be clearer. You would in turn be able to hear/notice the bass guitar more

so to sum up i suggest this.

10 inch in box, not sure on the power i think i have 600 or 800watt. Gives a nice sharp note for double kick/ notice bass guitar notes (12 inch doesn't keep up, my friends have a wide variety of decent 12's and listen to the same music)

if needed buy another amp to power the sub. (get a mate that knows what to do or your car audio guy to set it up if you don't know how)

adjust the bass lvl's off your head unit to what you like..

And if you got the $$ get xtreme dynamat (silver insulation lookin stuff, can get it at autobarn i believe) sound deadening for your doors.

Shoot me a PM if this doesn't make sense and ill go into detail some more, or if you need some help with something.

  • 2 months later...
Yeedogga Experienced

Yeedogga

Posted
Posted

Sound deadening is your friend- do the whole car if you REALLY want to alleviate rattles/ road noise. Every rattle is detracting from your SQ.

Find a nice 10" SQ sub in a sealed box, give it plenty of power, get rid of the 6x9s and put in some well amplified good quality front stage speakers. Try to listen to them before you buy though, as all speakers are not made alike.

I would suggest trying to find speakers that have a warmer sound with a nice meaty midrange. I had some Hertz splits in my old car and they were very treble-rich; Awesome for classical music, electronica and 'clean' rock/pop. But anything with heavy cymbals or really crunchy guitar distortion just became noise. I had to have the high frequencies leveled right down from the deck. Shame, it killed my love of punk music! (cos it sounded so shit in the car)

Hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • MBS206
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
    • MBS206
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It doesn't seem to follow revs. Oddly it seems to follow TPS a little bit from what I can see, but with some delay a bit. IE end of the graph, when he lets off throttle fully, pressure drops a lot, then slowly builds back up, but rpm is on a nice cruisey drop off. I do agree though, it seems very electrically.
×
×
  • Create New...