Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im hoping someone can shed some light on the emo cooling system in my r33.

I'll give a quick rundown, prior to water pump install, it would operate at half on guage in traffic and reduce down to anywhere to around a 1/4 dependent on airflow/outside temp etc etc.

But now after the water pump install, its behaving differently, which may not be cause to be concerned but its different...and I dont like it being different.

It now sits at half all the time, and if in traffic tends to drop a little on the gauge(just under half) I am not using any coolant, and cant see any visible leaks. But after the last water pump smashing to the shit, in my paranoia all I can smell is coolant at the front of the car. But despite cleaning it, after the failure, im putting this down to residue.

I have removed the rad cap and its not showing any signs of head gasket issues, bubbles or the like. However after the failure my clutch fan did develop quite a few large cracks between the fins, but surely this wouldn't affect the temps being reduced when airflow is greater? or would it? I have an aftermarket no name radiator.

It happened not immediately after the water pump install, I went for a drive and it was sweet then all of a sudden (probably about 80kays later) the water temp increased and has slowing continued until now its always at the half mark, even coasting down a big hill in 18 degrees do not alter the dash gauge.

Any ideas as to where I might start?

With much thanks,

Danielle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259467-cooling-system-issues/
Share on other sites

did you do the pump replacement, or have a shop do it?

sounds from your description that the car didnt have a thermostat before and now it does, the car should sit just under half at all times, regardless of outside temp.

for real?

My friend also has a 33 and his will drop down in temp subject to airflow to around a 1/4 as well. A shop installed the pump, and needed a couple of go's to get it right, there is no way they changed the thermostat, that area has not been touched on that engine ever id say.

Does any one know what the actual heat range is of that gauge?

where does everyone elses rb25 sit on the gauge?

I've got a RB25DET in my 32, and the temp gauge has always sat around the halfway mark (even 40+ with A/c on full blast).

You (and your friend) might have a sticky thermostat that doesn't open / close smoothly. I don't think it will hurt the replace it, anyway.

Not sure if you touched the radiator cap but its possible its starting to fail or is the wrong one. Heres a lesson, an increase in cooling system pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant, this prevents the flashpoint conversion to steam when near cylinder hotspots thus better cooling (higher altitude also reduces atm pressure and lowers boiling point). That smell could be the cap opening prematurely and flushing coolant out of the overflow. Put a new stock cap in or one rated a little higher (not as cold as japan here so dont need the heat). Dont go too high because if the pressure release is rated to high it can burst hoses etc.

The clutch on the fan is could be gone also

My 2 bob

Hi Danielle, My r33 temp gauge sits just under (bee's dick) halfway at operating temp. The thermostate regulates the temp of the coolent in the system. I would remove the thermostate and test it, to be on the safe side. it sound like the thermostate has been sticking open at times before the water pump was done. My fan has a couple of cracks in it as well, thats just from age. If they are really bad replace the fan. I have worked on many nissan vehciles over the years and i've found the temp gauges on various models to site about halfway or slightly under at operating temp.

Regards

Clynton

Thanks for the replies.

Seems like its nothing out of the norm, so nothing to be concerned about...I guess im a little paranoid after smashing a water pump.

Yeah looks like fan is on the to be replaced list. Ah at least thats easy to do!

Cheers again guys.

mine sits at bit unde rhalf way no matter how hot or cold.

As this is the optimum engine temp.

So iwould say b4 it wasnt acting normally due to failing pump and now its fixed and working normally

How did u smash your old one? or do u mean it just failed due to age?

by the sounds of it ur thermostat is faulty, she should stick around the half mark but seeing that were on cooling system issues does anyone know what temp the right "opperating temp" should be? i just did a thermo fan conversion and im not sure if 85c (when the fans kick in) is the optimal temp.coz ever since then she seems to be using more fuel...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...