Help Me Please Im In A Bit Of A Pickle

[LUME]

ok i have an n/a completly stock r33 i love the car but i want a turbo was jsut wondering what an easy option would be?

A.buy the peices bit by bit and then do it

B.buy a blown det and convert everything onto my na

C.buy a det and computer do a conversion

D.but a front cut and get the brakes ect ect wit it

i have taken it to the drags and it is sjut soo gutless in n/a form but i know they arent a power house.

jsut need some opinions fellas

cheers in advance

(dont flame me plz)

[N-DAWG]

blown det? i don't understand what you mean by "blown" if by dead, and then rebuilding it, you'd might as well do that with your current engine unless you wanted to rebuild a dead engine and sell your current one...

I done the bolt on conversion...so long as you don't go crazy with boost and it's tuned well you'll be fine.

BUT

If I done it all over again, I probably would have done an engine swap.

buying a front cut is certainly a good option though as I highly recommend a brake upgrade! Not to mention having GTSt brakes makes life a bit easier with parts and brake hoses and wheels etc... Just remember you'll need to convert the rear hubs to 5 stud though.

I must say though...you have a completely stock N/A R33...I've seen a number of threads for people trying to actually buy a N/A R33 that is stock and clean. For the dollars you'll be spending on upgrading to turbo, suspension, brakes etc... sell it and buy a GTSt or GTT. That would be my recommendation, then at least you have a good starting base to begin with. That is the engine is already turbocharged, you can upgrade in stages starting with the exhaust, front/dump and cat, then an intercooler, then make your way up to an EBC, then you can start getting serious with tuning, and do it safely with a car already built to be turbocharged.

If you had already done so much with your R33 then my response would be more along the lines of engine swap, or bolt on, or rebuild and turbo.

[LUME]

well the enigne is stock apart from bmc air filter and coilpacks. the cars not exactly stock stock from factory. stereo sub all the usuals really

ok heres where some people will call me a wanker and so on. my car is down as a gts im on my provisional's. and all the cops know its non turbo and never pull me up casue i dont kane my car or anything.

blown d.e.t (turbo motor) i meant.

the engines stock but ive done things to the rest of the car that took my time and my effort and i dont really want to part with it.

although i was jsut thinking about an engine/box and ecu conversion. And waas going to buy a big brake kit conversion ect ect so it is all safe.But im not doing it all till i have all the parts i need and do it in one weekend. But what about the paper work? it can all be done at department of transport jsut to get the engine number changed over to that chassis?

it has a gtst diff and an lsd so i wont need to worry about changing that.

plus cheers N-DAWG for your input too

[N-DAWG]

Okay...I see your reasoning to want to keep it now.

So you intend to do the engine/box and ecu. Well if you're wanting to have fun with a high compression motor with the expectation to rebuild later and make it stronger again by doing so later, then high compression turbo's are nice and responsive off the line. Up to you what you want out of your car, how much you intend to spend, how hard you want to push it, and how reliable you want it to be.

If you're intending on doing the big brake upgrade then might as well keep your car as either way you want to upgrade the brakes to aftermarket.

You already have LSD? even more reason to then keep it.

If i was in your position, I'd be deciding between an engine swap/ECU/Box swap; OR turbocharging the existing engine and using and go with an aftermarket ECU and rebuild later on when it needs it.

I would be leaning more towards swapping the engine for reliablities sake, and sometimes the cost can easily work out the same..BUT..if you get a kinder suprise half cut then there's always the risk and the "what if". Rebuild the engine to cope with a nice turbo set up to begin with if you can afford to...or do it later when it needs it.

Check out the N/A+t results thread to see what to expect.

[LUME]

if i turbo my na motor ill run a t3/t4 exhaust front mount all the usuals. and ill tune it for 5 pound for the street and 10 pound for when i take it to the track. i would run a haltech or a power fc. but i am really considering a complete engine swap. i have been looking around now for a while and on japanese import spares theres a s1 rb25det loom ecu and gearbox optional for 4500 with the gearbox, and 3200 without i think it was. in the end it will be alot more easier to put a turbo motor in it and do the conversion over a weekend and run it stock for a little bit till it wears off. i have been looking in the na+t forum thats what got me thinking about doing it instead of ripping the engine out and doing it all na the cost would not be worth it

i really appreciate your input N-DAWG

[N-DAWG]

Yeah definitely use a front mount. you can get away easily with 7 pound. I eventually want to get a EBC to run it at around 8-9 to begin with, hopefully to get it spooling up to that boost quickly and maintain that boost level. Thing is, the N/A+t gets up to daily driving speed fairly quickly that accoridng to the boost gauge it barely makes a lot of boost before your up to 60, and a lot of the time i find myself cruising without making boost if i'm driving down a slight slope or just letting momentum carry the car a bit. Put it this way, for fuel economy when driving sedately it's not much difference to when i drove it N/A as I was revving it out more than I do/need to now.

So long as you have everything you need, converting it to N/A+t isn't taht bad.

You've gotta remove the exhaust and manifold etc.. anyways, as well as mount the SMIC and piping.

The biggest extra on the R33 conversion would have to be running the oil and water lines, which I believe the oil line is just plugged, and the water can come from the heater hose, though my tuner decided it best to leech of the intake plenum for that.

Of course with the engine swap provided you can get the ECU, means you won't have to stuff around with tuning or remaps and all the extra cost associated with it. If you decide to go PowerFC though, then at least you'll be just swapping the unit and only need tuning..not like a piggy back.

So yeah, way up the balance, get a price to go either way drive in drive out, then decide. Either way both are expensive options, but I agree that swapping is a good starting point as it gives you the basis of everything to follow, and you've got a common ground with the GTSt skylines when it comes to mods, parts and other things.

[J3TR33]

hi mate, iv done the bolt on turbo conversion in my S2 r33, i bought all the parts gradually from the forums and ebay, and then hand it over to a workshop to do the conversion

my suggestion would be to either get a smashed R33 from auctions, do the engine transplant, brakes, ecu, etc and then sell parts from the wrecked car that you dont need,

or just go ahead with the turbo conversion, i.e bolt on... might be cheaper,

i am running 12psi with a remap atm, car runs like a dream, boost is almost instantly, and im pretty sure i have factory Lsd,

my suggestion when doing the bolt on option is to buy parts that you dont have to rebuy in the future for more power,

i would buy a whole 3" exhaust from turbo back, FMIC, a Bosch 040 or 023 or the walbro one, turbo injectors, and a Power Fc or Vipec/Link ECU,

this way you dont have to buy things twice, buy it once and right the first time,

a remap is also a very good option, toshi can sell you an ecu and a remap to suit your needs, he is in the trader section,

your oil line and oil return might be a bit of a headache depending if they are already on the block or not, mine werent, had to t-piece the oil feed from the oil pressure switch and the return went to the sump via the oil head return...

water lines were taken from the manifold, they took out the water line going to the throttle body,,,

all in all im very happy with my car, im looking to do the 5 stud/brake conversion soon as well, the NA brakes are getting a bit tired

[N-DAWG]

You have factory LSD? *gets jelous* lol good luck with the 5 stud brake upgrade

Luke, maybe look for a Skyline that's been written off, but still has the engine, brakes, diff etc.. in good condition. I see them up for sale occasionaly, most have been rolled though.

But so long as the parts you want are still in good condition, it might make it easy to do the engine swap, brake upgrade, diff upgrade and whatever else you can think off, and sell the left overs and old parts. Just a thought.

Something like this basically: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R34-...A1%7C240%3A1318 except a turbo model of course and be a simple bolt on changeover and if you're in luck with the old parts should bring the costs down a bit

[R34GTFOUR]

i think it might just be the na r34's that have an open diff. Every na r33 i've been in has a stock viscous lsd diff (just like the gtst but they have different axles). But my r34 definately has a viscous lsd and thats stock and na (but awd).

as for the conversion, its really a flip of the coin. You buy a complete engine, harness etc and you have pretty much everything you need which saves alot of time. Bolting a turbo onto your existing engine may work out a "little" cheaper but you have to go through the hassel of sourcing parts etc = time.

If you are keeping the car and planning to do future mods get the det, much better starting point.

[woods]

Ive heard from other people in my car club

www.no-limits-performance.com

Turbo conversions are time consuming and very heavy on your pocket.

But if done correctly can be insane. Although there is the chance you will have more problems down the track.

Maybe start looking for a turbo R33, plenty on carpoint.com

good luck

[J3TR33]

can some1 clear up the question about Lsd in NA's,

like with my car i leave two black lines when testing it out on private property..

but when going through a corner it only does single wheel spins, and sometimes it will pick up Lsd when accelerating and hitting full boost on a rolling start..

just a bit confused... either i don't have lsd or i have it but its worn out or i need to change my diff fluid... hmmm

cheers

p.s do the turbo conversion

[LUME]

lol yeah im sorting out my suspension in the next few weeks havent been on lately im very pleased with everyones replies ive been working 7 days 12 hours to try and get the coin for my car im a bit over it

jet r33 my lsd is the same i think it could get reshimmed i know how to get it sideways in the dry but with the suspension stock its not the best idea on private property of course reall have to flick it and get the momentum

yeah i think i might hold it off take my engine out freshen it up a bit lower the compression a bit power fc cams port the head and intake

and after that then ill jsut do the bolt on conversion on a fresh motor

[N-DAWG]

I like your thinking Luke... if you're prepared to do that and start out with a fresh motor suited for the turbo, you'll be able to get more out of it safely.

[G0DZLR]

I'v done the NA+t conversion, and i have to say; buy all the bits youl need before you convert. im still in the process of sourcing the last bits and peices for my inital setup (intake cross pipe and mounts for my SMIC) other than that its running alright.

so far its cost me about 1k, for all the bits iv sourced, im making a clean 7PSI daily, spools all the way from 2k revs. things you need to be mindful of is boost and heat. and also the time and effort involved in putting it together. mine is by no stretch perfect, but its still something to work on. initail setup took 7hours in total to get it from NA to T. mind you that was with dodgy hoseing etc, had it redone in speedflow a week later. no intercooler as of yet (sitting in my mates garage waiting for the rest of the piping to arrive)

only issues left for me are heat really, choking my coilpacks something shocking if driven for more than an hour, intercooler should help that as well as maybe a custom fab'd coilpack cover with vents. also in need of a bigger/less leaky dump pipe as its choking and spluttering a little. possibly also getting hold of a stock GTSt ECU or remapping my NA one, as its running fairly rich atm, but still running fairly well. retarded the timing a couple of degrees to stop the pinging i was getting. also have got new oil (Castrol Edge Sport 10W 60) to be safe, and bled through a richer coolant mixture.

because your like me and on your Ps, you dont want something obvious (big shiny FMIC, loud BOV/dose, pod filters etc) which is why im trying to use most of the stock GTSt parts, spraying bits black where need be, using stock airbox with hiflow panel. to make it look stock as a rock to any joe-blo cop (down here theyre a bit more lenient than inner city). as long as you dont go boosting wherever you go youl be right though.

as long as you dont boost everywhere you wont needa rebuild anytime soon, and keep boost at a reasonable level.

[LUME]

yeah itll be a 7 pound for the street and yeah lol it needs to be sleeper so it means wings going on stickers off ect ect all the cops here know its not turbo and dont see me doing anything at all. coilovers next week and a new wheel bearing its getting a bit noisy..8th day straight working (scaffolder) not fun hopfuly this cyclone gives us a bit of rain get a day of to recharge lol. i was jsut considering stock piping ect ect all stock or run a front mount powder coated in black it has to be stealth or there goes my car for a few months and my lisence im even considering running a standard looking muffler

[G0DZLR]

heres my setup currently. excuse the blow-by on the exhaust, was worse before i washed it today its a 2.5" catback system on it curently, not too loud but still gives a nice note, and the muffler well, looks like the stock one but 100times better lol. engine bay needs a bit of a clean but all in all is quite stealthy.

[LUME]

yeah thats definantly stealthy cant really say sleeper lol theres no way to make a skyline sleeper people look either way at a skyline. still the standard airbox? ive been looking at the for sale sections and doing ir right to stock form is cheap jsut have to find the bargains i think its the easiest way to go

[N-DAWG]

only issues left for me are heat really, choking my coilpacks something shocking if driven for more than an hour, intercooler should help that as well as maybe a custom fab'd coilpack cover with vents. also have got new oil (Castrol Edge Sport 10W 60) to be safe, and bled through a richer coolant mixture.

Can you elaborate a bit more on what you mean by heat choking your coilpacks? Also running the same oil

[G0DZLR]

yeah thats definantly stealthy cant really say sleeper lol theres no way to make a skyline sleeper people look either way at a skyline. still the standard airbox? ive been looking at the for sale sections and doing ir right to stock form is cheap jsut have to find the bargains i think its the easiest way to go

post a thread in thw WTB section. i had a couple of people offer me airboxes, took one. talk to "DezzaDee" hes got one with the snorkel (must have cos it has the cutout for the piping)

Can you elaborate a bit more on what you mean by heat choking your coilpacks? Also running the same oil

once the car has heated up the car starts to misfire. thinking its cos of coilpacks becoming too hot, theyre only a couple of months old.

have taken the seal off the back of the bonnet (closest to windscreen) and will raise the bonnet off its hinges a couple of mils with some washers to let the heat flow straight out the top. (cheap way to greatly reduce heatsoak ) because heat rises

yeah the oil is good stuff ey. the "nissan genuine" stuff that came out was like water :S

[N-DAWG]

The Castrol Edge 10W60 is what my tuner recommended so I went with it..but I've had no complaints

I read about that $1 cooling mod in a recent HPI mag... how does it look on the skylines though? What happens when it rains?

As for custom coilpack covers, I've seen some laser cut coilpack covers in a group buy. That should help them vent. iirc they were around $125?

I'm paranoid about coilpacks now, mainly cause I'm using the GReddy eDamage ignition harness, but hopefully the zener diode mod will have fixed that problem now. I do find that the DE+t gets rather warm under the bonnet. How does it compare to a DET though temperature wise? I've never had the opportunity to compare...