Jump to content
SAU Community

New Cooler Fitted, More Knock??


DJ_L3ThAL
 Share

Recommended Posts

ok i had a huge massive truck cooler on my car when i had my powerfc tuned and just recently i sold it and put the stock coioler back on

with the truck cooler the knock readings on the PFC were normal, with the stock cooler they were a little higher (what i expected)

but NOW with my new genuine trust front mount kit (600x276x76) its giving me really high knock readings, but the car is going a fair bit harder and WAY better response than ever, why would this be ? do i just need a retune ? anything i can do in the meantime?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

Sorry man dont mean to be a prick but this is a serious thread. Thanks for the bump and all but hes not selling any cooler(s) he has a problem that is stated at the top which he needs advice for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey noof can i buy your ...oops nevermind! Seriously, you need a bigger turbo, injectors, and fuel pump. This with a dyno tune will fix your problems. The trust cooler will be cooling the inlet charge better. therefore allowing you to cram more air in the cylinders resulting in a leaner mix this is reflected in your power gain and in your higher knock readings just give the boys at your tuning shops a call and give them your readings from the powerfc and they will advise you if a re-tune is in order. And i must ask... have you been on holiday because you seem to have a great tan!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha yes, i slept too long in the tanning studio :rofl: and became a movie star!

yer it sounds about right, i was going to slap it on the dyno anyways just to make sure but yer looks like some tuning will be required, just annoying i can't go out and fang it because its going nice n hard

also i was wondering, the trust kit came with some vaccum hose that it said to tpiece into the pressure regulator vaccum line over to the boost controller vaccum line, what would this be for ? i didnt do it because it seemed silly but i thought perhaps it creates a more even and accurate vaccum/boost reading across the baord in the engine perhaps ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds like it makes sense, perhaps providing faster fuel reg. response. Trust trust power, they know their sh1t. Do it and take it for a run. PS i am running a modded manual computer in my auto R33 with 0.9 boost and loving it! no dyno for me!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have an apexi boost gauge, its doing about 0.55-0.6bar boost, i have my Electronic boost turned off because when i went back to stock cooler i didnt want to risk pinging etc, and havent turned it back on because its pinging now more than ever with only damned stock boost

Danny: awesome, when did ya get that done ? chuck it on a dyno and see how much power she's got now :) oh and i heard those exhaust quietining thingos are bad for the cat converters, they can burn out, just in case u didnt already know dat (but you prolly did :rofl:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by AutoTrust

The trust cooler will be cooling the inlet charge better. therefore allowing you to cram more air in the cylinders resulting in a leaner mix this is reflected in your power gain and in your higher knock readings just give the boys at your tuning shops a call and give them your readings from the powerfc and they will advise you if a re-tune is in order.

This sounds pretty accurate :uh-huh:.

But if you are using alot more fuel, than i am, it goes to reason that your car is running richier than mine (we are both making approx. same power) so you shouldn't be running lean. Might be worth getting a retune with air/fuel ratio readings as well as power, just to see what's going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The computer has intermittent problems with stalling thats why J-SPEC gave it to me to play with, its firmly mounted under the floor mat so i can throw stuff at it at traffic lights when it starts running on less than 6 cylinders!!! thanks for the heads up on the apexi ECV hurting the cat i'll up it's intake of whiskas to keep it healthy! Have you mounted your Power FC?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well.... yes and perhaps no. It depends on what you mean by "spool". For most of us, the point that we would describe as where the turbo is "spooling" is the point where the wheel speed gets high enough for it to start making some boost. This is coincidentally around about the point where it starts making noise - hence the "spooling" sound. If that is what you mean, then no - the wastegate should still be shut at this point. The boost will still be way below the point where it should start opening. If, on the other hand, you mean "spool" as "reach full boost", then yes. At the point where the boost has reached target, then boost control has already started. The wastegate is already open, and has been for some time. Some short time, definitely, but still, some time. If you have no boost controller - just the wastegate actuator connected to the boost source, then you have a mechanical system working as a pressure balance. There is pressure on one side of the wastegate actuator's diaphragm from the spring, and pressure on the other side coming from the boost measurement location (the "source"). This is not a digital thing. The wastegate does not stay shut until the boost pressure reaches the spring "pressure". The spring will start to compress as soon as you start to apply any pressure onto it. This can be controlled somewhat by adding pre-load into the spring, but you cannot add enough preload to make it into a digital switch behaviour. The wastegate will crack open and start to leak exhaust out (and therefore not though the turbine) well before you reach the target boost pressure. Electronic (and some mechanical/pneumatic) boost controllers will act to prevent the boost source applying pressure to the actuator until just before you reach target boost, thus preventing the wastegate from creeping open. And some boost controllers will apply boost pressure on the spring side to further push it shut. And this can be be necessary because the exhaust pressure in the manifold also pushes on the wastegate valve and tries to open it and you cab get it leaking even without it being connected to the boost source.
    • A stand alone boost controller will not give you the control you need, unlike a modern ECU. Your boost will always naturally target the wastegate's opening pressure first, your controller then will allow you to add more boost as required.
    • I recently discovered that I could not remove the outer bolt on one of my rear UCAs. Looked like it was seized to the crush tube. It wasn't all that long since I had last had that arm out (I dunno exactly, but certainly <2 yrs), so I was a bit surprised. I thought I had stock bushes in the rear knuckles, so I ordered some new PU bushes and resigned myself to having to do some dismantlery....and some butchery. It was clear that the seized bush was going to need to have the bolt cut out of it and then possibly some more brutality after that. Upon getting the 3x arms on each side disconnected from the knuckles (with the exception of the seized one, of course), I discovered that I had in fact put PU bushes into the knuckles when I did the subframe conversion about 12-13 years ago. So, I say "Oh, good, I might not have to swap any of these others out". We set to work butchering the bolt out of the seized arm. Stainless blade in a big-arse Milwaukee recipro made short work of it, and also damaged the arm, which added a welding and grinding and painting step to the whole exercise. During the butchery it became clear that the bolt was not just seized but bent. Head scratching ensued, as it is hard to understand how that bolt could get bent. I did suffer a broken (stock) toe control arm on that side a few months ago, and drove some miles with some significant rear wheel self steer and lack of control, which probably was the cause. But it's still hard to understand how it would bend that bolt, rather than just bend the arm. But here's the start of the real discoveries. The crush tube was rusty as all shit. I mean seriously rusty. A little on the inside, contributing to the tube seizing to the bolt (along with the bend). But the outside had at least 2-3mm of compressed flaky iron oxide jammed in between the parent metal and the PU bush. This one was brutalised and still took some effort to get the PU off the crush tube. So I thought I'd inspect the others more closely. The one on the tension rod adjacent the bent one was first. I had to use a 2-jaw puller to get the crush tube out, and it took some effort. It came out looking like the first one. All 6 of them were the same, except for one that looked not too bad. Had some corrosion on it, but was mostly OK. There was also a significant amount of corrosion on the inner surfaces of the knuckles. They took some convincing with pointy tools to let go their grip on the inside of the holes they were in. There was no sign of the original (SuperPro) lube anywhere. I and my bro-in-law have never seen any crush tube end up looking like this. It was seriously like the car has spent time putting boats into the water at the boat ramp. So, it seems like the PU might have been bonded to the steel on both sides, which would have to make them work more like stock rubber bushes (where arm deflection results in twist inside the rubber). Despite this, I have never had cause to believe that they were so tightly bound up. The suspension moved up and down much as you'd expect. The car never made any noises in those bushes that would have led me to believe there was a problem. Maybe the rusty interfaces actually were "sliding". Anyway, lesson learnt. Even quiet, non-troublesome PU bushes should be inspected every now and then!
    • the boost controller allows you to adjust the opening of the wastegate (which only has one preset spring) I'm going to see how it acts on it
    • I studied the principle of wastegate to begin with. so if I understood correctly. the moment when the turbo "spool" is where the boost control begins. When the target level of "psi" is reached the wastegate opens to regulate the exhaust pressure passing through the turbo and thus control its speed and the rate of boost
×
×
  • Create New...